So is PurePlase base GTL? I agree in prefering GTL to the GroupIV and V. Sounds more like a gimmick with a small amount in Platinum, maybe Ultra will be the real deal a low NOAK is important in any DI engine even with the port injectors we have.

Yep, PurePlus is Shell's marketing speak for GTL. And the NOACK on the 5W-20 is better than it is on the 0W-20 (10.5 vs 12.5). The odd thing is that the old Ultra 5W-20 had an even better NOACK at 5.0. The new data sheets:

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...)_(en)_TDS.pdf

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...)_(en)_TDS.pdf

Of course, 0W-20 is specced because it gives you a .25% improvement in fuel economy for the first 10 minutes of driving. :bonk:

-Dennis

Well I'm just glad there will be a PUPPP in 0w20. I was disappointed there was never PU in 0w20. Although maybe 5w20 might be the better choice anyway...

Noack. Pennzoil Ultra is GF5. Pennzoil Ultra has a Noack approaching Red Line or Amsoil. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is moving toward GF6. It has a higher Noack.
I say Noack is overrated-just like many used to say viscosity index is overrated. The Noack test is conducted at a very high temperature. It is not necessarily indicative of engine cleanliness.
Oils of the future will be thin. They will have high quality, moderately expensive base stocks. Additive packages will not need to be so robust. The key question will be how long before they shear beyond acceptable levels. Just one man's opinion.

Amsoil dominator 30 weight. E85 and turbo'd with an 8qt oil pan.

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Ahh. I don't know which oil brand to buy now, was going to purchase Mobil 1 then heard bad things with Subaru. Was about to buy Penzoil but some users above said don't. I don't know what else to purchase besides Redline, which is a little too expensive.

Seriously, you have nothing to worry about using Mobil 1 with the twins, I have 49000km on my car and it hasn't burned a drop. They are brand new design and have nothing in common with the old engines that supposedly(I say supposedly cuz it's rumoured as I have no personal experience) used to burn quite a bit of oil.

I've run Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE for the first 15000km or so before switching to Castrol 0W-30 (which isn't API certified-"could" void your emissions warranty due to the high phosphorus content=anti wear, hard on have catalytic converters) and now I'm back to Mobil 1 using their 0W-30 AFE (API certified GF5), and I'm getting a little better mileage, too early to say for certain though, as it's only been ~2000 km so far. I also have a UOA of Castrol 0W-30, that I intend to put up at some point. Anyways that's all.

i run mobil 1 5w-30 in my AVO turbo FRS, same that i ran in my evo X. change it every 5k along with the oil filter. not seen a single problem and oil levels stay normal

Running Amsoil OE 0w20. Anyone heard good/bad things about it?

I just switched to Pennzoil PurePlus 5W-20.. I swear my engine runs smoother now :D

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...ingless..._???

-Dennis

Castrol 0W-30 is indeed API certified, although it meets the older API SL spec. The phosphorus content is only slightly higher than current GF5 oils. Although, it's nearly a 40 weight at operating temp and I would only use it in a forced induction or tracked 86.

-Dennis

I was referring to the bottle not having the API certification label. Maybe it was certified but doenst meet current gf 5 standards. That's the way I understand it. As for the viscosity yes it higher but at 12.21 Cst @ 100c it's not much higher than a traditional 30 weight and my UOA shows it sheared to 10 Cst @ 100c after ~7500 Km's. Still completely fine, but I didn't want void my catalytic converter warranty should I they crap out.

Oil designers understand that it is not possible nor is it necessary to produce an oil that is both super light and has a low Noack. The lightest 0W20 oils run very clean and have Noacks around 12%. Noack is not meaningless. It is simply not as important as other factors. The threshold remains 15%, while oils are now required to be easier on emission systems, produce less sludge, and maintain cleaner pistons, amongst other things.

When Noack gets to 15% or above, the chemistry of the oil starts to change to the point that it becomes a concern. Below that level, it's not so much of a concern. Thinner motor oils are getting so good, that even the "thick oil people" on Bitog have had to adjust their thinking.

I'll probably go this route and do Mobil 1, there are just endless cons to every brand it seems like unless it's one of the higher end brands.

Do u daily drive it? If so, how is your driving style? Because I switched to motuls 8100 5w30 for my ago kit, and I noticed it takes a little longer to reach operating oil temps (90-100c)

I drive fairly hard and daily, as in 200-400miles, 7 days a week, with 75-80% highway driving. My driving is very easy on motor oil, as proven by extensive UOA's on super light Sustina 0W20 indicates.

The thickest oil I have ever used was Amsoil 0W30 Signature Series, for a 10k mile cleaning run. I have no temp guage, but it always started right up quite easily, maybe from the POA and add pack. I would describe it as velvety smooth.

This oil has to be similar to your Motul. The 8100 5W30 is a beefy oil and gives you plenty of cushion with your aftermarket enhancements. Does it start with ease? I would expect so. Drive easy until you get up to operating temperatures, of course. Then, let it fly, in the wide open spaces of Te-jas.

Depends which 8100 5W-30. Eco-nergy is a very light 30 grade coming in at 10.0 cSt's at 100C with older API SL levels of anti-wear additives, and a fairly robust HTHS of 3.4.

X-clean meets ACEA C3 so it has low GF5-like levels of phosphorus, a slightly higher HTHS of 3.5, and a much higher viscosity of 12.0 at 100C (so it's just under a 40 grade).

-Dennis

You know me, bluesubie. Anything thicker than Sustina 0W20 is "beefy" in my world.
Always enjoy a chance to talk motor oil with you.
Every UOA on 86's, and boxers is something I want to take a look at.
I want to see how PUPP 5W20 behaves in these engines.

I actually wanted to run Amsoil (Signature series) but good god they're so damn expensive, they don't have a 5 quart hug like royal purple does. Since our cars use 5.7 or 5.8 quarts. I have to buy a gallon (4 quarts) from amsoil and then 2 more quarts and then buy the amsoil oil filter good god lol.

But I ended up getting Royal purple since it's local at my wal mart and i can get it on amazon. They also have a 5 quart jug, so I buy that and a quart jug and order the oil filter from amazon.

Just did my first oil change at Toyota using OEM 5w30 oil. Will likely try Motul 300V 5w30 coming change for summer use.

Do you heavily race your car? Wouldn't switch my oil unless I turbocharged it or race it.

I will do track sessions and high speeds on the autobahn yes, but would it harm the engine choosing a better oil? I prefer protection from a higher grade oil then fuel consumption from a 0w20.

Will 5-30 oil be a little too thick for my stock motor?

I might get a stage 1 tune later nothing crazy just get rid of the torque dip..

Reason why I'm thinking of running is because I spun a rod and toyota didnt want to cover it and now I'm buying a motor .. been using 0-20 and it's like water thin.. I did run 5-20 on my second oil change and worked fine..

Looking to get a bit better protection oil wt because 0-20 seems too thin and it's for economy use seems like it..

5-30 or 5-20? What's better for my use? I DD don't track..socal area so it's going to warm up soon and that's why I used 5-20 on my second oil change because weather was hot and I was thinking 0-20 would thin out more..

I'd rather have a bit thicker oil to protect the motor.. not sure 5 30 or 5 20 is the way to go.. I see the turbo people using 5-30

Oil always seems to be a big concern for everyone. Blackstone Labs does a great job with readouts and information on new and used oil.


Back to the forum question, I used to use Mobil 1 5w-30 but have switched to Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro Blend. Reason why? I have a FBM turbo kit and built engine and the higher level of zinc in the 0w-40 is more beneficial for my setup. I personally like Mobil 1 since it is easy to get and because I usually find it for 50% off :P. But the 0w-40 Mobil 1 is the only one (from my research) that has the higher zinc, unless you go with their race oil. :)


Running 5w-30 should not be a problem where you live. The reason why you'd want to run the stock 0w-20 is because it is very versatile for temperature and efficient for the engine design. Being in a warmer area and not in the Midwest, 5w-30 can benefit you from the oil breaking down faster.

i put about 4 hours track time and 6000 miles on 0w20 royal purple hps and got good reports from blackstone. im gona run 5w35 now just for that extra piece of mind.

Nice.. looks like I'll be running 5-30 from now on ince I get running again..


N/A or forced induction power?

5k? I was planning to change my oil every 3,500 miles bcause I will be using E85. Do you think 5k would be safe for me

You really don't know unless you send your oil out for testing. You can look at other people's test results with a similar setup, but in the end everyone drives different and in different environments/fuel/car/oil/etc.

2013-2014 factory recommend interval is 7,500miles.
2015(brz at least) is 6,000miles
Suggested/recommend cut in half when running e85.
But look at the test results, some people have good test results and some can run up to 10k on a stock setup.
Do whatever you are comfortable with, get it tested and go from there. I would suggest 4k(your 3,500 ok too) and get it tested, good medium between 3k and 5k, while be a little bit on the safe side.

Going to do my 2nd oil change at 5000 miles. I'm at 4600 right now. Did my 1st oil change at 2500 with Eneos Sustina.

For this 5000 mile change, i'm going with Royal Purple. Should be interesting!

Alright thanks. I think all I have to worry about right now is which brand of oil to use haha

NA, and yeah i meant 5w30, the hks oil i buy here is 5w35 for some odd reason. it even says on the can its equivalent to 5w30... lol

I run 1 quart mobile 0w40 11.99$ and top up the remaining 4quarts with mobile 0w20 39.99. Oem filter , used to run amsoil 0w20 signature it burnt 1-1.5 quarts in a 5000km cycle, i also ran toyota 0w20 and the mobile mix i find keeps the engine very quiet and burns no oil at all, redline mt90 is my favorite in the trans keeps it quiet on idle and shifts silky smooth compared to oem or amsoil 75w90 gl4 mtf

It nets me a 0w25 ish heavier 20 weight i prefer the one quart 0 40 to half half with 0 30 just outta personal preferance

Not bad, I have mixed some 5w-30 with the 0w-40 before. Mobil 1 (on their website) has an official post in their FAQ section using those two as a comparison saying it is safe to mix. Personally, I like the higher zinc in the 0w-40. The 15w-50 also offers the higher zinc as well. It just easier to get these oils at walmart and auto stores vs other oils that may need to be special ordered.

Shot some pictures off of Mobil 1's website on the oils for you guys. Furthermore, the link attached is a current rebate offer Mobil 1 is doing until 31-MAY-2015 on getting $15 off 5qts and 1 oil filter. It's a great deal :)
https://apfco.net/secure/R8235W/Home/Entry

Attachment 106256

Attachment 106257

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Which mobil 1 0w-20 oil do you recommend?
- Extended performance, super synthetic, or advanced fuel economy

Monil 1 or royal purple. Ive seen how RP treats internals.

I use Royal Purple in everything from atv's to Diesel Trucks, always treated me well.

What was the reason you stopped using Sustina and began using RP?

I'll just leave this here. Old thread I know, but none the less.

Japanese BRZ manual recommends up to 5w40. Maybe this is already known.

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