Does this happen to have to do with the current OFT tunes? Header w/o a tune is not very impressive either. I know there are separate UEL and EL tunes for 93 octane but I only know of one all-encompassing ESC tune.

tunes utilizing header and ESC were made with the OFH

Well, I found a great deal on an JDL UEL header so I went ahead and picked it up. Thanks for the input, can't wait for the theory and reading become practice and driving.

Anyone running billet power blocks with their Phantom ESC? Any sort of gains from it on top of the ESC, or does it suffer from diminishing returns?

Diminishing returns.


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Hey guys, just thought we should update the spreadsheet in the front page. I included OFT+PROcede in the tune section, would be interesting to know how many of us are on what now.

Hey guys new ESC v2 owner here. I got my kit shipped to me a while back but I just did not have the chance to install it yet with the deep freeze we got here in the northeast area over the winter in addition to having two kids below the age of 3! Anyways, I finally got around to installing and had a quick question: what OFH tune are people running with catless UEL headers? Is it this (v2.01 OTS for ESC 1.5 dump)? Keep in mind that I have the v2 kit with the new batteries, etc.

Thanks,
--yamsta

Get whatever is the latest tune shiv has... Which I think is that one.


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Yes that one if you have the 1.5x dump pack upgrade or are running the two big crank battery setup.

My initial thoughts and notes
 

Ok I got the v2 kit (no aux charger) installed and tune (v2.01 OTS for ESC 1.5 dump) flashed. Also added myself to the spreadsheet. Overall I thought the install was pretty straight forward. The v2 video posted by Steve was a great supplement. Thanks @Sojhinn. I did have some thoughts/notes about the whole process for future/current owners:

Packaging

1. Top notch packaging. Everything is packaged well even in a such a small box!
2. Everything feels solid--wires, cables, clamps, etc; heck even the audio-jack connectors are gold plated.
3. Everything you need (other than batteries) is included in the kit, including zip ties.

Install/Routing

1. The thick gauge power wires going from the 24v batteries to the controller can be routed next to the fender along with the controller power wire instead of next to the engine/ECU:
   https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--...o/IMAG0248.jpg
   
   https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G...o/IMAG0247.jpg
   
   https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e...o/IMAG0241.jpg
   
2. The 6-pin connector can be routed closer to the battery and then UNDER the main fuse panel/box and back up to the controller:
   https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...o/IMAG0232.jpg
   
   https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/IMAG0231.jpg
   
   https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...o/IMAG0230.jpg
   
3. The power connector for the controller to the starter battery can be connected to the existing “block” connector on the + side and grounded (-) with the existing ground connector that’s next to the strut tower:
   https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/IMAG0228.jpg
   
4. For the CCV hose I reused both hose connectors as such:
   https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...o/IMAG0245.jpg

Inside

1. For routing the wires inside the car I find it’s easier to pop off the shifter surround to help feed wires from right side seat to the left side. And then once in the left side you can keep feeding the throttle wire behind the carpet all the way up to the throttle switch. Sorry no pics here.
2. I found that having the voltage meter placed next to the trunk switch to be an awkward location to glance at when driving. I found the space next to the water temperature gauge in the dash to be a better spot. However the double sided tape that comes with the kit is not great at sticking to that dash material. I would suggest getting some type of 3M outdoor mounting tape.

Driving Impressions and other notes

1. The power is definitely noticeable, especially after the accelerator pedal slop corrects itself after the flash. I would say the delivery is a lot like how a turbo kicks in that it is somewhat abrupt.
2. For some reason I feel like the starter battery is slightly shorter than the dump batteries. The reason I say this is that even after tightening the battery tie downs pretty well I can still slide the starter battery back and forth a little bit. Maybe sliding a little bit of cardboard or something between the battery and hold down block might help.
3. Another thing I noticed is that when you arm the system you'll hear the 3 beeps (2 beeps quickly followed by 1 more beep later) as mentioned in the install video. Additionally you'll hear another 5 beeps. I thought something was wrong with my unit but apparently this is normal and just signifies the system waiting for boost input according to Rob. After that it waits quietly :) .

Questions

1. Might sound like a dumb question, but is all the boost created also used? What happens to the unused boost? Like in a traditional turbo type system there's a wastegate and blow off valves for the extra boost not used. What happens w/ the ESC?
2. Along the lines of the first question, what happens when you press the accelerator with the ESC on but the car off? The turbine will spin creating boost, but where does all of it go? Is this harmful for the engine?
3. I would like to take some logs of the system while running with the OFT to check the health of the system. What parameters should I log in the OFT and how should I drive?
4. Lastly, what does the AUX charger allow for? Is it really needed?

Thanks :burnrubber:,
--yamsta

I agree about the display placement. I put mine here with some 3M rubber type of double sided tape and a bent piece of aluminum and it has worked out great: http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/PA160002.jpg

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/PA160003.jpg

Answers:
1. The compressor motor has a brake which slows it down very quickly, so when you let off, you almost instantly stop producing boost. If you got from WOT to 0 throttle instantly you can hear a little surge. I tend to ease off from WOT and stop the boost before I pull completely off the throttle. It all happens in less than 1/2 a second so I am pretty sure it's safe, I just like to be cautious.. I don't know how the Proceed reacts though.

2. The boost doesn't go anywhere, it builds against the throttle plate. It shouldn't be dangerous to the engine, but you might overwork or damage the ESC from surge lock or something. no reason to do it except to test the unit, so a second or 2 shouldn't hurt.

3. I am not an expert on this, but I usually log: ADV Multiplier, Knock Correction, LT fuel trim, ST fuel trim, AFR, FLKC, Engine Load, Boost, Time, Throttle, Engine Speed, and Intake Air Temp. To drive, try a lower gear, (I always use 3rd ), get going up to 2k rpm, then nail it and hold to redline. To check the ESC function, just look at boost. You should have about 4.8 PSI at about 3k rpm, and about 2 PSI at redline. If so then your phantom is all good. The easiest way to know if your engine is running well, is to check the ADV Multiplier, If you run it through the revs and it never drops from 1.0 you are gold. Here is one of my logs for reverence: http://datazap.me/u/target70/esc-dum...&data=1-7-9-11

4. The Aux chargers main purpose is to speed up charging the dump pack batteries. I believe it cuts the recharge time in half. It's secondary benefit is that it splits the effort between the motor controller and itself which reduces the chances of overheating the system, and I believe by sharing the work it also can give a slightly higher current output from the batts to the compressor for a little extra oomph. I have a custom battery setup so I hold about 25% more charge than the old 1.5 battery setup, and I only driven on the street, but I have never run out of charge. Even on trips on 2 lane highways I have passed multiple people back to back, and a 0 to over 120mph full WOT test I have always had juice to spare.

Hey @yamsta, glad to see you finally got it installed!

To your question about surge....with the amount of boost we are running the compressor surge is not detrimental. Even with the throttle plate completely closed we are only making 5 PSI ~ so it will not hurt the compressor in a surge scenario. Now if you were making 10 to 15 PSI, yes you have to blow that extra off if the throttle plate closes.

Glad to here you are liking it! It will get even stronger of the next couple weeks as those batteries condition and the tune gets itself happy.

Enjoy!

Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread
 

Hey yamsta! Thanks for the kind words. Yeah I'm not a fan of that placement either for the voltage meter. I have mine in almost the same location as @Target70.

Also on the routing of wires:

I followed robs instructions to better mimic what he has on his paper instructions. But if you find something that works better...more power to you bro!

I used to route my dump pack cables the same way but my new cables don't reach as well as they used to.


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Random question:

Does the stock fuel system support enough flow to provide fueling for the ESC on E85 with no change to the port injectors or pump(s)?

Have a question for the OFT users out there. I am trying to flash my new BRZ and once it reads the tune it says "Mode file not found" or something like that and it cannot procede. From what i have read this happens when the stock tune isnt 100% stock but my BRZ is a factory fresh 2015....is the new stock tune just not recognized. What is the best way to flash going forward?

Online says delete some database on OFT and then download and apply the newest tune from OFT website but i dont want to do this if it isnt necessary.

Yes. There isn't much headroom above that though.

Good to know! Right now I'm not looking to increase power any more than the ESC + E85 + headers + full exhaust. I think at that level, the car will be fast enough for me.

Of course that is what I say now....

That should get you right around 230 to 240 hp. From stock of 170whp thats a 35 to 40 percent increase in power....this makes a huge difference on gears 1 through 4.

So been driving around for a few days now and I'm really enjoying the power delivery of the system. Still amazed how such an easy install can produce so much power! One thing I added to the "other notes" section of my initial review above was that when you arm the system you'll hear the 3 beeps (2 beeps quickly followed by 1 more beep later) as mentioned in the install video. Additionally you'll hear another 5 beeps. I thought something was wrong with my unit but apparently this is normal and just signifies the system waiting for boost input according to Rob. After that it waits quietly :) .

What does concern me is the longevity of the system. How long can we expect the dump batteries to last since they seem to be heavily discharging and charging so quickly? Also, is there any extra strain on the alternator or other engine parts?

To those guys that currently have the ESC. Have you experienced any problems in heavy raining? Have you done anything extra to your components or wires to protect from any water or dampness? Since it deals with electricity, I am just curious how this would hold up in a place that would rain a lot and if there would be any extra steps that should be taken.

I had one set of batteries for over a year and had no issues. I'm on the new setup now for about 6 months and again I've had no issues.

I'm not worried about it.

As for the motor, etc: I've been using the system for almost two years and there has been no degrade in quality for motor. Now I did have Rob check it out 7 months ago with the upgrade but he said everything looked awesome.

As for the rain question above:

When it has rained here I haven't had issues but then again I'm in California...


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I never had an issue at all with rain when I had it. I live in Ohio and we get a decent amount of rain.

I have driven in many heavy rain and extreme cold (-20C) and my system has had no problems.

Rob has been running the same powersonic dump packs in his test vehicle for over 2 years.

I am nearing 2 years on my powersonics and they are still going strong. For the powersonics at about 200 bucks i wouldn't be upset if i had to replace them after 3 or 4 years.

How much is the aux charger and how/where can I order from? Seems like from @Sojhinn's video his dump packs are charging quite a bit faster compared to the stock setup!

I believe it's $400. PM/email Rob for details.

New concern for me... Today I went for a drive and after the usual warm up time I found a chance to utilise some boost. Only there was no familiar 'urgency' and it all felt very sedate.

Now I can't comment on voltmeter display because mine bit the dust back in January and I'm waiting on a replacement so I've not had any chance to monitor if the batt's have become problematic in a gradual or sudden way.

I do recall that only 5 days ago I used the ESC in a 2nd gear overtake and it felt strong.

The 'suck on the vacuum hose' trick definitely makes the compressor spool up. I let it idle and pressed the activation switch behind accel, I heard it spool up and almost bogged/stalled the engine from it's idle.

So on my way home I took some logs and did my best to replicate max boost scenarios: 2nd/3rd gear and WOT around 2500-3000rpm. The live display on the OFT indicated it struggling to get to positive boost numbers but it was hard to glance while WOT.

Logs are here, first one is from Dec 2014 when all was running well (max boost 3.8psi):
http://datazap.me/u/dtek/dec2014?log=0&data=1-13

And today's best log is this one (max boost 0.44psi):
http://datazap.me/u/dtek/log3?log=0&data=1-14

Any suggestions on what to check next? There's no obvious whistle or unusual noise that might suggest air leaking between ESC and throttle body. All cables seem to be in good condition from a quick look in fading light.

Looks like maybe your throttle switch might have been pushed out of reach of the pedal or the switch has come disconnected.

If you shut the car off but leave the ESC turned on and go WOT do you get boost?

I have had my foot catch the switch once and it caused my engagement point to be pushed out past 100% so it never fully turned on....This looks to be the case for you.

Let us know,

I can clearly hear the click of the switch on engagement point (while driving) – it's at about 60-70% position in the pedal travel. If the car is on but engine not running, I can push accel to the point of the click and yes I hear the compressor come on. I'll contact Rob for further tech input, thanks though Fenton!

Did you ever get this resolved?


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Very interested in the ESC. Already tuned with OFT and I'm pretty proficient at tooling so the install shouldn't be much of a problem. The numbers people are posting for the price looks awesome. On top of that I would finally be able to say that I've boosted a car :bellyroll:

Does anyone know what the current wait list is looking like or approximately how many months out new kits are running?

Trust me even if you weren't good at turning wrenches the install is cake.

I am also awaiting some sort of response from Phantom. I have sent several message via their website's "Contact Us" section, but have gotten nothing.

Is there a better way to get pricing info and get on the wait list for a future batch?

There's been a fair bit of back and forth to troubleshoot but opportunities to dig around under the bonnet are in short supply recently.

I appreciate as much as anyone the desire to lay one's hands on this kit (I waited a long while) but this is the 'owners' thread dude.

Send a PM to Rob and Fenton on these forums, stating you are a definite buyer, and then regardless of whether you hear back or not, consider yourself on the list. Don't expect regular or elaborate updates about your place on the list though, just be sure that if you wait enough months patiently you'll end up with a kit.

Anyone encounter fuel smell after going WOT with ESC on?
I seem to get some gas smell once in a while - anyone have any ideas what to check?


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Are you running an aftermarket header or front pipe?

Nope - stock header and front pipe. Perrin cat back.
Afe drop in filter - checked it not long ago and it was clean


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I get it all the time with the OFT tune, but I noticed recently since it has started to heat up outside I don't get it as bad. Winter it smelled pig rich. Also when I ran my E-85 tune last year I almost couldn't smell it at all, and when I did, it smelled pleasant :D

So I'm having battery problems again. My car almost didn't start today. It was around 55-60 degrees this morning. Surprisingly, it started up during the third time I cranked the engine, although it sounded very weak and was on the verge of failing again. My navigation and radio was reset as if my battery died completely. Last time I drove it was 3 days ago. Maybe it's time for a new battery..

are you still running the original starter battery with the 1.5 setup? I can't remember if it will fit, but you could try out the new starter batt. I managed to get 2.0 to fit with the 1.5 kit with some washers and longer screws between the top block and one of the side braces, plus cutting off the inside lip of the battery tray. If interested I'll post some pics.