I have a great maintenance plan on my BRZ, do you know if my dealer would put fluids that I request in? I'd be happy to supply or even buy from them.

I wouldn't trust any dealer to change my oil, but yeah they should use whatever oil you give them. Of course you have no way of really knowing...

The only way to answer that question is to ask your dealer.

For many years I would take my MR2 into the Toyota dealer and bring my own Mobil1 syn oil and ask them to use that instead of whatever oil they typically used. They were typically okay with that, and even charged me less for the oil change since I was providing my own oil. However I tended to stick around and would watch them as they did the oil change from outside the service bay, and at least once I caught the guy starting to pump regular oil into the car. I don't know if he just didn't read the directions in the work order, or was planning to steal the oil for himself, but I walked over there and told him to use the oil I provided. He apologized, and since he had already started pumping the regular oil in, had to drain the car again then he used my oil after.

Also this will probably make you hardcore Subie guys spit your coffee out or something, but the local Subie dealership that I go to here uses Mobil 1 synthetic 0W20.

I let them change my oil every 7500 miles to keep the warranty satisfied, but I change it at 3500 miles in between myself for additional peace of mind/care, using either Subie/Idemitsu or toyota 0W20 syn. Though as I am starting to go to the track more, I will probably be switching over to Redline 0W30 soon for a little more viscosity at high temps. I may also try Motul or go back to M1 in the future, not averse to trying different brands.

Did a oilchange lastnight im on eneos 0w20

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Smart move save you camshafts. Its a tossup with these cars higher weights saved the rod beardings, spec'd oil (0w20) saves the heads.


Did you get the Eneos Sustania?

I didn't spit my coffee out because the bad reputation that Mobil1 has among hardcore Subaru guys is from knuckleheads running the wrong viscosity for their application. :D Yes, modifying an STI to 400 whp and running M1 5W-30. :bonk: M1 0W-40 is excellent for WRX's and STI's and M1 0W-20, and moreso the 5W-20, is excellent for the BRZ/FR-S.

For Red Line, you wouldn't need to go with 0W-30. Even their 5W-20 is more robust than most xW-30's (it has a very high HTHS and kinematic viscosity). The 0W-20 has an HTHS the same as some 5W-30's and the kinematic viscosity at 100C for both Red Line's is just below a 30 grade.

-Dennis

just dropped in 5.7 of toyota stock 0w-20... coming from sustina... lets see how this chapter goes...

Hmmmmm ill have to look at the label I thought the higher grades were sustina but most likely it is

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That sustania claims to have advanced (obviously unmeasureable by a UOA) additives that my protect the rods and and have the rheology to flow thru the heads as the engineers intended. But damn that expensive oil.




This forum is huge and full of information, but the most important one oil pressure vs rpm logs. Amazing.

Mine was 8 bucks a quart;) I got that napa hookup lol

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wow mine was around $15/qt

I work at napa autoparts so I bout nearly get it at store cost

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hook it up!

send it over to NYC haha

OW-20 Factory Oil. I don't drive my car that much.

Ok but u pay shipping ;)

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ill def hit you up next time i have an oil change... unfortunately i just changed my oil :thumbdown:

Wow 12 pages but a good read

There is talk in the thread about camshaft wear due to Subaru having issues with VVT design, a video was just posted I guess this is their third revision. Now one thing we know is ZDDP protects camshafts, the SN oils are pretty darn low on ZDDP. I'm going to stick with my regiment of adding a 1/2 qt of 0w30 Mobile racing oil, its full of the stuff and compatible with Toyota 0W20. Only down side is cat damage when/if the rings wear out.


I can understand why so many here take redline 0w20 as its full of ZDDP, ashame it voids the warranty.

Where's the vid? Is the wear specifically traced to lower ZDDP levels? I don't know, ZDDP isn't the be all and end all for anti-wear additives. It's just cheap.

There are new additives including organic non-metallic adds that don't show up in uoa's. Do you really think that someone that uses super low zinc Eneos Sustina is going to have additional camshaft wear based on lower ZDDP levels? I think the oil formulators are smarter than that. OTOH, Mobil1 5W-20 does use more ZDDP than the 0W-20.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
And where are you finding find M1 Racing? :burnrubber:I only see it on-line.

-Dennis

Thought I would chime in as well.

Changed mine at about 7,500 I bought the car certified used dealer said they changed it before I purchased at the time 6,500 miles on it I put about 1k on driving it from Chicago back home to GA. The oil shot out like water I am definitely not used to 0w20 and for "allegedly" only having about 1k miles on it it was already caramel in color is this normal?

Usually with synthetics in my other vehicles it doesn't start changing color for a couple thousand miles.

Either way thanks everyone for the info from what it sounds like I'll stick to Mobil 1 0w20 (only $25 for 5 quarts at walmart cant beat that) I only drive her to the office on Friday and sparsely on the weekend.

LOVIN the car! Thanks again

As long as that dealer used an API SN/SM ILSAC GF-5/GF-4 certified oil, then it's fine. Different oils can have different colors from different additive packages.

-Dennis

Addressing only this from your post - oil color is not indicative of how "worn" or "dirty" the oil is. Oil holds particulates in suspension and this changes the color - it means the oil is functioning as intended.

Talk to someone running a diesel (like me) and they'll tell you that their oil is darker than a black steer's ass on a moonless prairie night after 500 miles. But its still good for 10,000 miles.

I agree ZDDP is old school and cheap. Problem with the new additives is you have to take the companies word for it, for all we know these new super molecules could be modified paraffin. Not saying they are we consumers are in the dark.


A bought the mobile 1 0w30 racing oil for $15 shipped off amazon, good for 2 oil changes to give redline additive levels. At $7.5 per oil change I can afford the insurance/piece of mind.


I may switch to the 0w30 catterham blend plus the racing oil additive. Need to get my oil pressure gauge installed when it warms up.

Thank you all for your knowledge and input. Puts my mind at ease a bit then about the color.

Would it be safe to use 0w30? I do see others running it.I only drive it sparingly but when I do its 35 miles one way to the office cruising at about 85mph then stop go in lovely ATL traffic.... when I'm back around home though I do have a very heavy foot I would feel better running a thicker oil just leery to go against the manufactures specs...

I'm still new to this forum thing if I knew how to thank you each I would... sorry :thanks:

Judging from uoa's posted here, as well as input from engine builders on this forum, a thicker viscosity isn't needed. Even some guys that have added forced induction run 0W-20's (although more robust 0W-20's like Red Line and Motul 300V).

-Dennis

Its a catch 22. There are still a lot of UOA's with high copper as well.


If you read the vvt noise thread I recommend watching the video with the Avo engineer.


I can say my FA20 runs better on the 0w20. The vvt noise is a lot lower than with 5w30. But I admit I am still concerned for long time rod bearing wear with 0w20 so I'm trying the 0w30 catterham mix next oil change.

Hi bluesubie! Your stuff is always great reading here and on bitog. I just want to throw a couple of ideas at everyone.
First, Sustina has 800ppm of zinc in a form that is sulfur-free. This extends OCI capability and reduces corrosion from sulfuric acid. My conjecture is based on personal experience, UOAs and Eneos statements on their website.
Regarding M1, it's all about the base stocks. Esters and group 3 components are mixed to produce the best protection. Take M1 AFE vs M1 EP. They look the same. Obviously the base stocks are different.
I am excited about the new Pennzoil Platinum Ultra with PurePlus. It's GTL. For a long time, I have favored group3+ over even the high ester oils. This oil runs sooo clean. The new Ultra 0W20 will be my new favorite oil. The absence of high amounts of measurable additives and lack of low Noack numbers means nothing. In this case, it is indicative of an oil that is superior and doesn't even need additives. This oil was developed with GF6A/B in mind!

Who's running oem factory Subaru or Toyota oil?

How good is the dealership oil? I read a few times it's pretty good. I also like the fact that it is much more convenient to just easily hop to your local dealership and buy oil; instead of mail-ordering for every oil change.

I'll prolly just stick with factory/oem oil. But..might go with Motul 8100 (pretty inexpensive for a 1 gallon bottle online)..but idk if 8100 is that much better than factory and/or off the shelf oils from everyday car shops (ie: mobil1, royal purple, castrol, penzoil, etc., etc).

Anyone know who good 8100 is, and ranks among the others?

Or should i just go with Eneos since everyone mentions it's good stuff?


.

Anyone using castrol titanium 5w30?
Thinking of castrol titanium or pennzoil ultra

Id stay away from pennzoil

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Ferrari didn't.

The local Walmart near me just recently started selling the 5-qt jugs of Gastrol 0W-20 Synthetic oil for $25.. I used it in my oil change last week. :)

Any of the oils listed are good choices for up to 7,500 mile intervals, depending on your specific driving conditions. The Toyota oil is made by ExxonMobil and the Subaru oil is made by Idemitsu.

I actually run Motul in my Forester XT, but I'm thinking of going with Pennzoil next. The Pennzoil Gas To Liquid base stocks are amazing. See viscositosis.rex's comments.

-Dennis

:clap: :thumbsup:

-Dennis

Have u seen what Pennzoil does to cars? Yeah maybe im wrong and there synthetic line is alot better then there standard line but that stuff gunks everything up in the valve valve cover ect. I sell oils and no one every buys Pennzoil for that same reason but hey your car not mine next time ill mind my own and not give my 2 cents

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What oil will you use?
 

The number 1 synthetic oil in the world is Mobil1. The number 1 oil in the world overall is Pennzoil. I've heard rumors of Pennzoil gunking up things, but I haven't seen any evidence that it is 100% attributable to the oil itself and not the owner's fault. Mainly I've only heard about it because this comes up once in a while at bobistheoilguy.com and everyone usually has a good laugh about it.

Rest assured, if there was actually a problem with Pennzoil sludge, the oil would not be number 1 in the world and PQIA (an independent oil quality watchdog group) would have issued an advisory. Instead, PQIA testing shows that even the conventional oil is excellent and has better properties than some of its competitors. In fact it did so well that many people believed that some of the listed results are typos or errors.
The following is a bit :offtopic:since the BRZ/FR-S requires synthetic oil, but it's worth posting IMO.

Read bobistheoilguy and you will see that one of the most recommended conventional oils there is Pennzoil conventional (aka Pennzoil Yellow Bottle/PYB).

I encourage you to do some reading:
http://www.pqiamerica.com/Pennzoil.htm
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3243598/PQIA_shows_PYB_5w-20_NOACK_=_6
(notice some of the obligatory comments poking fun of wax and sludge in that thread)
http://www.pqiamerica.com/Nov2013/Pennzoil.htm
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3242091/PQIA_tests_ten_5W-20s_-_one_ge#Post3242091

The conventional oil does so well in tests that some people insist that Shell uses synthetic base stocks in the conventional oil and even asked Shell this question during a recent Q&A.

Answer from Shell:

At the moment PurePlus™ Base Oil will primarily be used in our Pennzoil Platinum® line of products. However, in the future other engine oils in our portfolio may contain a percentage of PurePlus Base Oil, if required for a specific formulation. Products in the remainder of the Pennzoil portfolio will broadly continue to use conventional base oils as their primary base oil type.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/pennzoil-q-a/

-Dennis

All I know is I am officially confused by the new Pennzoil lineup. Went to WM to pick up oil for the BRZ and the wife's OBS - 0w20 and 5w30. I was previously using Platinum 0w20 and Ultra 5w-30 - there was still Pennzoil Platinum (PP) 0w20 but there was Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus (PPPP?) 5w30 instead of Ultra (PU). And it seems like there is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum with PurePlus on the way (PUPPP??). I like the Pennzoil lineup but the marketing couldn't be more confusing. Maybe eventually they will consolidate to PUPPPUWTF.

The standard Pennzoil Ultra and Pennzoil Platinum are being replaced with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum PurePlus and Pennzoil Platinum PurePlus. Pennzoil Ultra has been using the PurePlus since mid-2013, even though it wasn't labeled as such. See the last link in my reply above for the Pennzoil Q&A.

-Dennis

Well im not going to argue with u over oil and no id rather not read about a oil brand I will never use in my life im happy with eneos sustina thanks- omar

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I don't blame you. Facts and data are boring. :)
:cheers:
-Dennis