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I am using Mobil 1 TDT in most of my cars but thinking of switching to T6. Walmart pricing for the win!
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I get it for about $8/qt as a preferred customer. Otherwise it's about $10/qt. They ship from warehouses, and for me, the Orlando warehouse is pretty much a next day for ground shipping.
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I've been using Mobil 1 for years and never had blacking or coffee looking problems in even high mileage cars, but I change my oil in all cars no longer than 3K miles. I have a wife and 2 kids who beat their cars and in the heat out here it's the least I can do. I am listening to everyone on this though because it seeems to be a consensus that Subaru boxers and Mobil 1 oil don't like each other...curious though because Porsche uses M1 as their preferred oil. Regardless I'm not hear to argue.
Has anyone looked at Eneos Sustina? I used their stuff in Japan and a lot of you look for specs and info and they place it all out there...even the much talked about Zinc chatter and they don't add sulphur. Most of their dealers are in Cali and they are Toyota and 1 Subaru dealer...that's a good sign to me. My 2 cents...I will say the regular Full Synthetic Eneos is about $54 a case...Sustina is going to be on par for price with Ams oil and others I suspect. I only know Yen price. http://www.sustina.us/superior-cleaning-power.php http://www.sustina.us/ultimate-fuel-efficiency.php http://www.sustina.us/dealer-locator.php |
I went to Sebring this weekend and after 3 20 minute sessions (45-60 minute cool downs between), I gridded for session 4. I was on the grid with the AC on (yeah... I know) four ~10 minutes. When I went to roll out on track noticed the CEL on, the car wouldn't rev hardly at all, 1200rpm or so. Restarted car after a few minutes, would go in limp mode, 4500rpm. Water temps were fine. My bluetooth ODB reader was wigging out and wouldn't connect either (not a car problem, it wouldnt read a 10 year old Tahoe either that day).
My theory is an oil temp problem. After a ~30 minute cooldown, I was able to drive home and the CEL cleared itself after driving for 20 minutes then cycling the ignition. Haven't read this whole thread but my Googling has come up empty. No one else has had any limp mode issues, other than people tuning the ECU (obviously, self-induced) Thinking I'm going to need to switch to a 5w-30 as 100F ambient isn't uncommon here. Now to figure out which oil. |
Figure out which oil... sure but you figure out what the CEL was first!
Also, what were your oil temps? |
I couldnt get a reader to it in time and the car doesnt have oil temps readily available :/
I tried to read it with my bluetooth ODB reader and it wouldnt connect to my phone (but that was the phone, not the car, I couldnt connect to a 10 year old Tahoe either). Only code it was throwing was P1235 and that comes back to Air intake solenoid on a Forester but that's all I can find. Cleared the code (after the light disappeared on its own) at an Autozone and waiting to see if it comes back. And I have not modified the intake system in anyway (or any drivetrain modification for that matter) |
Running only the best: Motul 300V 5W-30. :)
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As a tech for Toyota they/we will never test the type of oil you place in your car but keep in mind with the FRS you get free maintenance for 30k miles so talk to your dealership im sure they will help you. you may just need to pay a little money for different oil. |
I plan on using GC 0W-30.
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