So how long is it going to stay stock? :)

Hopefully a little while, AP2 is still in the shop and decided to upgrade the supercharger and am trying to store away the funds to finish the aero work (wider quarter panels/wing)

Although that being said I've bought winter wheels/tires and am ordering an arm rest + jpm coachworks cover now... We will see I really want to get comfortable with owning a boxer motor before doing much.

@Poodles as well change all fluids out to motul

Been fighting the bug myself. I know I need to get paint protection before anything else so I have to wait lol

Ohh I forgot I ordered 225/40/r17 hankook RS3 already as well :iono:

Good color too!

ouch they drilled those front license plate holes. oucccccccch

Nh requires a front plate so I don't overly care about it, if I ever start modifying the car heavily amuse will have a front bumper out around the same time ;)

Ah I see. Most states require a front license plate anyways, but what I was somewhat referring was that it sucks that the dealership drilled holes on the bumper for the license plate. Maybe it's just me that hates having license plates, literally at the center of any bumper. The inner ricer inside of me likes it when license plates are at the hooking areas- front license plate relocation kits.
On other news, congrats on the new baby! You'll love it. Maybe sure to make a journal so I can subscribe and keep updated with it! :party0030::cheers:

Sometimes... I dont like to think what others may have done to it. Mechanically and to the interior of the car.

Alright so any further advice?

My break in schedule looks like this:

Keep rpm under 4k for first 1k miles

At 300 miles change oil filter
At 1000 miles change all fluids and oil filter.
At 1001 embrace WOT and hard driving.

Any recommendations on filters? I know the OEM model has changed a couple of times. I'm going to search but am asking in hopes someone has already done the work tap talk sucks for searching

Modern engines are 99.9% broken in, so changing the filter or oil isn't needed. Plus, the original fill is usually very high in moly and the filter (at least on Toyotas, dunno on Subaru) are a special unique filter specifically for the break in. You're more likely to cause excess wear by changing the oil too early in this case.


Try to keep it under 4K for 1K miles. I say try because on an automatic car it would be impossible to do it so just try not the beat on it or stay at the same RPM for long periods of time.


Remember, fully seating the rings takes engine braking and this will also work to break in the transmission and diff (instead of just breaking in the drive faces, it breaks in both).

I get that the original fluids are there to assist in handling any flaws in production and assist in the break in period, the reason I want to be persistent with changing fluids is it's not uncommon to acquire shavings or other pieces of debris in the filter/oil within the first couple hundred/thousand miles. I'll see if I can make it to 2K miles but I won't drive the car very hard with whatever it came with.