i don't think most people track their car like that, and the ones who do understand that they need cooling upgrades to do it.

just because a car cant go WOT around a track for 30 minutes without overheating doesn't mean that it's not perfectly fine for the street, autotcross or whatever else. if that were the case, just about every stock inexpensive sports car made (and most expensive ones) would be considered unsuitable for street use.

it's very rare to find a box stock car that can be beat on like that in those conditions and not overheat.

I plan on picking up another hood down the road to vent for the track if my temperatures aren't usable. But I don't have the skill to use the power my car has. I just plan on taking it to causal non competitive events to enjoy my car in a safe environment. For canyon driving I am sure with enough effort my car should enokay considering I primarily run e85. Though these concerns are why I did a supercharger originally. Now I will get an idea what it is like on the exact opposite with a top mounted turbo cooking my engine bay. :)

Agreed. I know a big percentage of people just will not push the car that far. Ever. I know I won't :D

@Sportsguy83 Since most people aren't going to track the car hard and will probably drive street mostly - what would your $5-6k FI build for a 'DD spec' include/look like?

Supercharge. Then you don't have to worry about the hotside piping of a turbo, and all the radiant heat it adds.

Can the car do 3 pulls back to back on the dyno without losing power? The stock NA FRS/BRZ car can do it all day. Stock Evos can do it all day. So can an S2000, Miata, and Corvette, as well as porsches, which are all common track cars. So can a Civic Si, Golf GTI, and Focus ST.

While being able to do a quick street pull is nice, I want more than that.

From all Turbo kits, AVO and Ptuning are the ones that will keep that turbo heat farther from the engine than others. I think an AVO stage 1 is not a bad option.

I'm researching and will answer you shortly.

yes... at least mine did. 3 pulls within 2hp of one another (really a lot more than that though there were other changes being made that kinda ruined the scientific process lol).

i definitely get your point though.. some cars have cooling/heat soak issues. if i had an innovate kit, that wouldn't happen lol.

So, is there a more heat biased place to put the turbo? Or since the car already has such low limited space that there isn't much room to even think about hot lapping a turbo 86?

Ptuning has the best location heat wise, heat will flow completely away from the engine.

You can, such as the P-tuning or STS, but that comes at the cost of transient response and spoolup time.

When we do heat soak testing on the dyno, we do it with fans blowing full blast into the front bumper opening, but with a closed hood, and the next pull as soon as the RPM is back down to around 2000RPM.

Damn. There really isn't a good compromise. Good spool time = high heat.
Low heat= more spool time...
I got 99 problems, 86 of them in one lol

I've been back and forth looking at all options and considering all requirements for a DD. I am not the best example (had AVO, sold it and now custom kit).

BUT for a true DD with the casual spirited run (as long as you are really really real with your goals and they don't change much) and considering this is FI out the door, (meaning everything else is stock or at the most some exhaust mods), my vote goes to AVO.

I almost picked up a S/C but I don't like dealing with belts snapping, oil inside them replacement or them using engine power to move. I also did not pick other turbo kits because either quality is truly garbage or there are some heat issues for dd'ing (temps might go a little bit up on stuck traffic). My choice also disregards CARB certification.

So my choice goes like this:

AVO stg. 1 $4100 Includes basemap safe for 91 octane gas in California (easy to install yourself)

BPV to recirculate turbo blow off $125

AEM Failsafe $300

One gauge pillar pod $50?

FBM Oil Cooler $600

ECUTEK License/Cable ~$600

Brake pads/fluid/SS lines $300

Catch Can $300?

Turbo blanket $100

Total: $6475

That is really as low as I would go. I would expect this setup to last, be fun, responsive, not overheat and be safe with stopping power.

Some prices might vary (brakes might be only $200) so there is a little wiggle room to get it close to $6K and also the Catch Can is not life or death necessary on a 5 psi car, but I would add it because it helps extend the life of the motor.