Cars running great with no air restriction issues!

Again. This was a one time deal. I am no longer making pipes for these DIY systems.

I don't readily have DYNO access or AFR gauges to prove this DIY solution. At this point, I really don't care either. The system is rock solid and is fine. If there was an AFR issue, it would throw a code/CEL and that hasn't happened (and I do have equipment to monitor this).

Sure, sorry to sound selfish, but the response of this DIY regarding this has been less than desirable. Some of you are part of a small eclusive group out there. Enjoy it. I do.

Long Pipe: 9" Long, 4" from End of Pipe with 1/2" Hole with 1/2" Grommet
Short Pipe: 7" Long, 4" from End of Pipe with 1/2" Hole with 1/2" Grommet

The material is 14 Gauge Aluminum (the thick stuff), purchased in raw lengths, cut, drilled, polished, and painted. There was a lot of time to choose the specific manufacturered pipe and paint material combination for low heat absorption and preparation to make it into a useable and good looking format.

On to the next project. :)

There will always be skeptics... Which can be good and bad. Skeptics can help us make sure that what we are looking at isn't really too good too be true. Other times skeptics prevent us from being able to truly enjoy what is available to us. I think maybe some of your skeptics haven't read/realized that this is purely something you're researching for yourself and that you're offering your findings to the community free of charge (except of course for any prototype things you've sold). Maybe they don't want to take the chance and spend less money on an easy to build intake that might perform just as well as a "name brand" one because they are afraid of... I don't know? haha.

I hope you don't take their criticism too hard because I can say that I truly appreciate your efforts and am totally interested to see what other things you come up with in the future. :D

On a side note I gotta make those brackets this weekend to be more in line with your V2 set up. The two on the heatshield are totally obvious and will just take time to bend to the angles necessary, but that one on the left is a bit more hidden. I'm sure it'll all make more sense once I've installed it all. :thumbsup:

Phanguy - You are a very mature individual and I thank you for your post. You are dead on correct with what I was trying to do.

So I did a little more putzing around on the car the last two days. I pulled out the front CAI snorkel. It took seven, 10mm bolts, and two clips, and I was able to sneak it out the top of the bumper. But before I did this, I went to Autozone and bought a cheap temperature sensor. I then snaked the wire from inside the cabin into the engine bay and placed the sensor by the air filter, inside the snorkel. I drove this way with the snorkel tube in place. Then, as I listed prior, I had removed the snorkel and placed the sensor in the same exact area where the snorkel was. When driving at 35MPH plus or even faster at highway speeds, not only did the temperature drop about 10 degrees, but the air intake produced a deeper tone and the car seemed to pull harder as well as the butt dyno sensor demonstrated that the car was faster and the little girl giggle was unleashed.

What I am thinking is that without the stock factory airbox/intake system, from the throttle body to the tip of the snorkel in the bumper, the engine did not suck the air all the way through as a cohesive system, and therefore the snorkel actually blocked cold air coming in with the CAI V2 system. With the snorkel gone, the car is a totally different animal. Now I'm wondering for those systems that replace the factory airbox with a different configuration that mates to the air intake/snorkel opening, what that would be like 'with' and 'without' the snorkel. Basically, what I'm talking about is the 'sealing affect' to the sheet metal snorkel hole. I'll find out in a few weeks when I try out the Airraid system.

You can spend 10 minutes and judge for yourself.

Anyway, I'm done for now, so here are some pix...

Thanks for listening.

Pix:

https://xcelir8brz.squarespace.com/c...41?format=500w

https://xcelir8brz.squarespace.com/c...42?format=500w

https://xcelir8brz.squarespace.com/c...kj?format=500w

https://xcelir8brz.squarespace.com/c...i9?format=500w

https://xcelir8brz.squarespace.com/c...n5?format=500w

https://xcelir8brz.squarespace.com/c...k3?format=500w

https://xcelir8brz.squarespace.com/c...dt?format=500w

https://xcelir8brz.squarespace.com/c...zu?format=500w

Did u move your filter any closer? And will this be as affective with mine? My filter is on an angle.. whereas yours is straight

:not yet:

Too much effort to do that last night. I reckon I'd have to make two new brackets for the heat shield to position the filter closer to the opening and angle my filter (like yours).

It may help, but negligible at this point.

Holy MFing shit! Just got done driving forty plus miles in seventy degree temp on highway with overcast conditions and let me tell you that the car feels, pulls, and sounds sooo refined. The snorkel removal definitely increases the air flow rate and is a no brainer to do. Bottom line...remove the ENTIRE stock intake system! My gas mileage improved slightly and car idles more smoothly. Even with todays lead foot. ;)

Wow I am surprised to hear the air directional snorkel removed actually helped the airflow! Well damn you X looks like I have to take more stuff off my brz now lol thanks for the info.

Does leave me wondering why they built the intake this way if it was more restrictive. I have found that a lot wih my Evo and brz that car conpanies does some weird stuff that doesn't benefit the car at all. Hmm

I actually think that the stock system from the snorkel to the throttle body is a good design. But it quiets the car down. With the complete removal of stock system the dynamics of intake changes. The air behind the bumper air flow is shaped above the metal bumper beam and behind the very top of the bumper. The flow is a larger diameter and more of a sealed triangle shape than circular, therefore an alternative intake design than sticking a tube in it to reduce or quiet the air flow.

And for those who don't believe my statement on airflow above, this is what AIRAID had to say in another post:

>>
To get the most airflow I recommend removing the factory inlet to let the box breathe from the space behind the bumper. It is possible to unbolt the top edge of the bumper and sneak the inlet out very carefully. We designed in a nice smooth velocity stack where it mates to the inlet which netted a couple more hp. By adding the velocity stack and removing the factory inlet, the CFM increased by 20% on the flowbench. I also stuck my hand in through the opening where the airbox breathes from and it is noticably cooler inside the bumper, so we know it is a great source for fresh, cool air.
<<

Cool doing this tonight

if you have this intake and have not taken out that snorkel you are missin out!!! this thing screeeaaaammmssss!!!!!! going down the road, and on the same road i take to work every morning my car was reading avg 5-10mpg higher than normal. I just need to get the heat shield on and get the brackets made to take the pressure off the silicon tubes.

some paint did come off when i took off my intake cone to take out the snorkel but i am going to get it powder coated anyways.

Told you so!