New banjo bolt in, line bled and drove it every day this weekend. The clutch releases in the first 1/4 of the pedal now and resistance is perfect for what I want. It might be a bit too heavy for driving in heavy stop and go city traffic, but its not bad at all. The design of the 7/8 MC is slightly different than the 3/4, the reservoir space sits slightly higher, hitting my recess- it works but not ideal, will be revising the design of the MC recess for future versions.

Also- I can now get reverse while the car is running, however it takes a good bit of effort and the car moves a touch when it does, I think the slave cylinder or clutch may be a bit worn.

Had my wife drive the car for the first time with the new engine, she was smiling and laughing on the back roads launching hard and sliding the rear around corners.

Thank you for the review!!!

I just wanted to confirm. did you end up using the second hold for the engine mounts or did you move it to the third one? Also gto or Fbody shifter?

I used second mount holes. Attempted third but didn’t want to hammer the trans tunnel much. Second hole only needed minor hammering around a few points. It’s a GTO shifter, I might replace it with sikky gto replacement shifter.

Perfect Everything works in that hole then? is it still required to remove the fuel line shield?

I had already removed it and made my own bracket. With some bending it might clear from the second hole, but its tight.

https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...70838252-5.jpg

When will the new clutch master brackets be done?

I'll be working on it some more this weekend, after finding the 7/8 MC is taller than the 3/4 I need to move the MC position down within the recess.

Quick question in post 67 there's a pic of a red transmission mount didn't see it in your parts list happen to recall which it was. Also thanks for the reverse switch and other such tunnel info really helped cx doesnt show all those little spots.

Prothane 7-1604 Transmission Mount Kit -- $27 via amazon. (i'll update my parts list)

And thanks, I was trying my best to document things as I came across them.

The engine bay was hot when cruising around. Fixed that.

https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...78935665-4.jpg
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...79979088-6.jpg

Did you end up cutting that part out or will a hammer help give the driveshaft some clearance?

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I cut two straight lines front to back on it, and used a harbor freight spot weld cutter bit on the middle, leaving the very sides in tact, but removing most of it.

https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...24886033-5.jpg
You can kind of see the line here. Looking at the top of the trans tunnel around the shifter should also give you an idea to what height the trans should be (roughly) for proper driveline angles.

What did you do for the wire melting on header? And did the electric fans fix the overheat?
What oil pan are you using?