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-   -   RR Racing Brake Development -- Competition and Street (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90379)

HSC 08-01-2015 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Panman (Post 2342745)
Installed my Stage 1 Kit today. Everything functioned and went together as it should.

Great service and product for an international customer - I highly recommend these guys. Good to deal with, straight shooters and fantastic customer service.

Some confirmations:

1. Stage 1 kit will definitely clear RPF-1 17x9 +35 (And the less common Desmond Regamaster 17x8 +35).
2. Quality of the kit and assembly is first class.
3. We in the metric part of the world need to have a few SAE tools handy when doing this fit-up.
4. No cutting of dust shields or any other modifications to existing parts are required.

Thanks again Rafi and Simon.

Pics? Also love to hear a follow-up after some track time.

Panman 08-01-2015 07:07 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Only got one pic during fitting, but shown mounted behind 17x8 Desmond Rega.


Next track day is in a couple of weeks at Lakeside which is Australia's fastest average speed track with a couple of very big stops.

ModinJapan 08-13-2015 07:24 PM

Customers are reporting back that they love this BBK!

They're even happier about the price..

-Josh (jlee@modinjapan.com)

Panman 08-15-2015 08:40 PM

Agree with @ModinJapan my kit has been in a couple of weeks now and a couple of mountain runs once properly bled and bedded.


All I can say is whoa! Previously had DS2500s with good fluid and SS lines + a brake stopper and was generally happy with that setup (until the point of fade), with the RAFI@RR-Racing kit it's a whole new world - I'm revising my braking markers due to the great bias and pad matching, and no sign of fade on my 19K standard mountain run.


Haven't had the opportunity to get on the track yet due to travel, but with a couple of events coming up will give a full report with photos. I generally run at one of Australia's fastest tracks which is a good test of braking systems with big stops.


Talk to these guys - with the bang for bucks of this kit, it's a league ahead of the no-name setups in this price range.

ModinJapan 08-17-2015 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Panman (Post 2358569)
Agree with @ModinJapan my kit has been in a couple of weeks now and a couple of mountain runs once properly bled and bedded.


All I can say is whoa! Previously had DS2500s with good fluid and SS lines + a brake stopper and was generally happy with that setup (until the point of fade), with the RAFI@RR-Racing kit it's a whole new world - I'm revising my braking markers due to the great bias and pad matching, and no sign of fade on my 19K standard mountain run.


Haven't had the opportunity to get on the track yet due to travel, but with a couple of events coming up will give a full report with photos. I generally run at one of Australia's fastest tracks which is a good test of braking systems with big stops.


Talk to these guys - with the bang for bucks of this kit, it's a league ahead of the no-name setups in this price range.


You won't be disappointed with these once you hit the track either. RR-Racing's BBK is track tested and proven!

-Josh

Kostamojen 08-18-2015 12:18 AM

What would be recommended for rears with the stage 1 or 2 frints, other than the 4-pots w/ 2-piece rotors?

Rafi@RR-racing 08-18-2015 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kostamojen (Post 2360728)
What would be recommended for rears with the stage 1 or 2 frints, other than the 4-pots w/ 2-piece rotors?



You mean what pad choice do we recommend? We are currently experimenting with some front and rear pad combos that should work really well for those wanting to retain stock rear brakes, but generally speaking, Stage I or II fronts will work really well with stock rear brakes.


It is important to use a rear pad with at least the same friction coefficient as the front pads. We have had customers use higher friction pads in the front than the rear, and that is not going to work on the track, as the front rotors will tend to run much hotter than they should.


Rafi

Rafi@RR-racing 08-18-2015 07:43 AM

2 Attachment(s)
We recently have been working on offering some color options using high temp 2 component lacquers with higher temperature rating than typical powder coating. We will soon add this option to our brake kits, but in the meantime, if you are interested in a custom color option, please PM us for details.

AZP Installs 08-18-2015 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rafi@RR-racing (Post 2360892)
You mean what pad choice do we recommend? We are currently experimenting with some front and rear pad combos that should work really well for those wanting to retain stock rear brakes, but generally speaking, Stage I or II fronts will work really well with stock rear brakes.


It is important to use a rear pad with at least the same friction coefficient as the front pads. We have had customers use higher friction pads in the front than the rear, and that is not going to work on the track, as the front rotors will tend to run much hotter than they should.


Rafi

Interesting take on tracking with stock rear setup.

We have found that on track in race conditions if you are using a BBK up front you need to use a lesser pad in the rear to prevent the rear from stepping out during hard braking. This was very apparent during our practice and qualifying at LRP. We were running race pads in the front and rear of our Spec86 Cup car and needed to back down the rears to a hawk HP+ where we have now settled in nicely for the rest of the season. This is consistent with what we've seen other teams doing as well on these cars with BBK up front and stock rears. We haven't seen the issue with streetable pads up front and in the rear but if you are racing you definitely want race pads up front to allow you to really outbrake folks into the turns especially given the lack of grunt out of the corners on these cars.

-mike

Rafi@RR-racing 08-18-2015 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZP Installs (Post 2360895)
Interesting take on tracking with stock rear setup.

We have found that on track in race conditions if you are using a BBK up front you need to use a lesser pad in the rear to prevent the rear from stepping out during hard braking. This was very apparent during our practice and qualifying at LRP. We were running race pads in the front and rear of our Spec86 Cup car and needed to back down the rears to a hawk HP+ where we have now settled in nicely for the rest of the season. This is consistent with what we've seen other teams doing as well on these cars with BBK up front and stock rears. We haven't seen the issue with streetable pads up front and in the rear but if you are racing you definitely want race pads up front to allow you to really outbrake folks into the turns especially given the lack of grunt out of the corners on these cars.

-mike


Hi Mike, I think the main difference is that our customers have been running the Wilwood BP20's in the front. BP20 has a relatively high friction coefficient but is not a pure race pad and has a lower Mu than something like Hawk DTC-60 or DTC-70. Also, you are running the ST40 kits, so that may also account for differences in pad selection.


Rafi.

cruizin01 08-18-2015 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZP Installs (Post 2360895)
Interesting take on tracking with stock rear setup.

We have found that on track in race conditions if you are using a BBK up front you need to use a lesser pad in the rear to prevent the rear from stepping out during hard braking. This was very apparent during our practice and qualifying at LRP. We were running race pads in the front and rear of our Spec86 Cup car and needed to back down the rears to a hawk HP+ where we have now settled in nicely for the rest of the season. This is consistent with what we've seen other teams doing as well on these cars with BBK up front and stock rears. We haven't seen the issue with streetable pads up front and in the rear but if you are racing you definitely want race pads up front to allow you to really outbrake folks into the turns especially given the lack of grunt out of the corners on these cars.

-mike

Maybe this has to do with specifically which caliper is being used up front?

I tried out a race pad on the front and a multi use pad on the rear and had overheating issues with the fronts at midohio. This on a stage 2 kit. Stock rear.

Sent from HTC M8 while in burnout mode

AZP Installs 08-18-2015 11:38 AM

Could be specific to the wilwoods.

While we run the ST40s on race cars with race pads and race tires we did test lots of BBKs (brembo, ap, and a few others) with similar results.

If you are running a street pad in front and rear you shouldn't have a bias issue although it also will depend on tires and track.

Trial and error is the name of the game.

Mine

churchx 08-18-2015 12:28 PM

Hmm, somehow advise to use different pads to enhance bias whispers me that kit's brake bias differs from OE. Otherwise it shouldn't matter what types of pads are on all four corners, simply with street pads usually one rarely push brakes to the limit on average daily driving, hence maybe reason is not as much if pads are street or track, but rather with which pads which driving style is more common.

CSG Mike 08-18-2015 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rafi@RR-racing (Post 2360892)
You mean what pad choice do we recommend? We are currently experimenting with some front and rear pad combos that should work really well for those wanting to retain stock rear brakes, but generally speaking, Stage I or II fronts will work really well with stock rear brakes.


It is important to use a rear pad with at least the same friction coefficient as the front pads. We have had customers use higher friction pads in the front than the rear, and that is not going to work on the track, as the front rotors will tend to run much hotter than they should.


Rafi

This.

For clarification, are you guys testing with or without the pedal dance?


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