according to the new service manual the crank shaft bolt should be tightened in a different way from 94lbf, the new way is 14lbf and than another 90 deg turn on the bolt.

I was wondering if people are doing it the old way or the new way ?

I have AT and I am not sure i can pull the replacement the new way without some damage to the aluminum pulley.

Well count me as one of the horror stories. My spacer came out during install, I didn't re seat it correctly, and now I'm having replacing the engine due to "top" end damage (valves, head, rocker arms, etc.). Wish I'd seen this beforehand. All the other threads just say "oh it's easy and cheap, why wouldn't you do it?" This is why you wouldn't right here.

If you're reading this, seriously consider whether or not you want to mess with a crank pulley. If you decide to, make damn sure the spacer doesn't slide a millimeter when you remove it.

so I'm have the same problem as whats on this thread. i can't see the pictures tho. been trying to put that pulley back into place for the past 2 days now just won't go in i need help:(

If anyone ever ends up needing this crankshaft pulley spacer, I will be selling a used one in good shape for $35. PM me if interested.http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DB8AAO...5t/s-l1600.jpg

Does anyone have the part number for the replacement gasket? Or would my original o ring be ok at 40k miles to re use?

So this thread appears to have just died in the arse. Is nobody bothering replacing the crank pulley. I believe it has been ID’d as basically a cosmetic change with no real power/torque benefit and actually losses in both.

Having said that I’m about to replace my OEM balancer with the Fluidampr. Still waiting for the damned thing to arrive. Nobody seems to mention using a 3/8 socket extension being placed in the hole once the bolt is removed and holding it against the inner spacer thingy to stop it moving while the harmonic balancer is removed. Seems the issue and scary bit lies in the accidental removal of the balancer WITH the spacer still attached. This youtube explains and shows. https://youtu.be/RNJ7-vVf4no Forget the BS about the bolt and O-ring needing replacing and just concentrate on how he kept the spacer in place. This is the second vid he made after having earlier issues.

BUMP!


Im going through hell with this process now myself.


ordered a fluidampr pulley and when I took the old pulley off the spacer came along with it, I didn't really think much of it, slid the spacer right back in and continued the install


started the car and the CEL and TCS immediatly light came on. So Im taking it back out as I know I didn't get that little key way lined up, but I'm having hell getting the spacer back out. it comes out about 1/2 inch and then I cant get it the rest of they way out..


Any suggestions?