That's good to hear - 600 tunes, nice!
I was also interested in the driving/throttle dynamics compared to other SC's.
I haven't bit the bullet yet on the proceed, so I'm also pretending to compare with the proceed installed for a better comparison.
I'm still really enjoying the on/off aspect of the ESC 1.5 throttle switch which once in a while isn't as smooth as I'd like when I let of the throttle, but not a big deal.

I'm at 50ft above sea level. Yea i'm thinking it's the batteries. I thought it was the compressor but you also have a version 1 so that's ruled out.

The smoothness or lack of is probably the tune. Great thing about custom tuning for your particular environment and a scaled maf which all vary some. Mine drives like oem.

As far as dynamics a centrifugal is laggy or not making much boost under 5k. All top end. A Pos. Displacement is Instant power. More instant than at least my v1 esc. My tuner told me the load delta is more sharp on the PD's. Which is actually very hard on the bottom end.

procede makes a massive difference to the driveability. It is the best upgrade you can add to the ESC.

It gives you a huge midrange boost which makes driving every day more enjoyable.

Okay, FINALLY.

Going to be doing the install this Sunday. If i have any issues, I will be coming here to completely bug the shit out of all you fine ESC experts.

It is much appreciated.

I'm running a custom OFT tune from shiv. After he tweaked the stage 1 91 ESC tune, it helped a lot.
It's generally pretty dang smooth, just once in a while can be a little abrupt - and perhaps being lazy about not down shifting from 5th to 4th in those cases.

You mean without going WOT? Otherwise its the same boost level, so not sure what you mean by "huge".

I also really don't want to tap into my ecu. I'm going to try to control it with ecutek.

I would like to say the first attempt worked out, but it did not. I am sure everything was installed correctly. You could hear everything go live as batteries were connected. The car started fine on the PC680. But when iturned the switch on nothing ever came up on the LED readout. I still think the DIY relay on the cable is what is causing an issue. I am out of time for today, but I plan on cutting the relay out and then moving forward. I can always add one back in later. I don't have any direct questions yet, but I thought I would share.

I lied, one question.

If I cut out the DIY relay, does that mean I will not need the fuse wire and/or need to plug it into the fuse box under the driver dash?

The components look good, so I am sure they work fine. But, that cable is pretty rough.
I am sure I will get it going.

Getting rid of the relay will force you to manually shut off the phantom instead of it happening automagically.

I know. But I need to troubleshoot. What about the fuse?

Shouldn't be a fuse then. If there is a fuse that would be weird

Kinda thought so. I dont want weird.....not that there is anything wrong with that.

About 5 months in with the pc680 starter battery. I think it's starting to fail. 1-2 weeks ago, I left the dome light on and completely drained the battery. Car started fine the week after when I drove it every day. Didn't start my car for a couple of days, and it didn't hold enough of a charge to start my car. A couple of days later, I turned my car to accessory on for about 15 minutes, and battery couldn't turn over the engine.


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Hi All,
I started my ESC install this weekend too. A couple of questions came up.

1. With the soldered fuse, are people using an add-a-fuse, or replacing the radio 10amp fuse for the voltmeter? I've never seen a wire soldered right to the fuse like this. Is it Necessary for the voltmeter to be fused?
2. I'm using 2 PC680 for the dump pack per Rob's recommendation. Curious if anyone else has had success with this configuration.
3. Is anyone running an AFR gauge and what type of AF ratio are you shooting for, for best /safest performance? Somewhere between 11-12?

Thanks!