I think the problem people are having with Mobil 1 is it tends to "disappear." In my wife's civic, I'm running Mobil 1 EP which claims to last for 15k miles. I decided to give it 10k. Well, right around 8k miles my wife looks at me and says that her oil light came on. She was 3 quarts low! That's huge considering the car only holds 4 quarts. I guess I will be checking her oil more often. I've never had an issue with mobil 1 before and I've run it in all cars but my cobra. Cobra I ran Royal Purple and oddly enough, I had the same problem with the oil "disappearing"

I'd love to run an Amsoil, but the FRS being a DD that will get EXPENSIVE! I figured I would give Mobil 1 a shot as it is readily available and relatively inexpensive.

All that being said, I could totally get why Mobil 1 could be a supplier for Toyota as, like I said above, it's cheap and it's easy to get ahold of. Toyota charging $12/quart is just a dealer being a dealer. Same reason why when I had my M3, they charged me $13/quart for Caster Oil 10W60 when you could get it for $8 pretty much anywhere online. I wish I could get this verified, though.

Edit: Looking at Toyota oil, it's around $7.41 a quart online if you buy it in a 12qt box, so really about the same price a Mobil 1. I'll just change it myself using the Toyota oil.

Got a link? From eBay, I see this other one, which is $45 for 12 quarts (before shipping)

Not sure how I feel about buying motor oil from eBay, I guess it's probably okay, just never thought about buying motor oil from eBay.

That's a better price than what I found! I would do that. I might order some from them. I figure as long as the box is sealed and so are the containers, I'm not gonna worry about it. I will probably stick with Toyota for a bit until I decide to autox the car (if and when that happens). At that point I'll swap to a little thicker oil (0W30), but considering this is what toyota recommends, and I can get it for around the same price as Mobil 1, why not use it, right?

If you do order, please tell us if it turns out to be good. If so, I would order this too.

Of course! Not sure I'm gonna go with that seller, I need to look around a little more, not so much for price, but to make sure it's legit. I'll keep you updated! :happy0180:

Go to the dealer! Just called up Mossy here in San Diego $53.88 for a case of 12 and $15 for the filter. That is one of the better prices I'm finding. Go figure that a dealer would be cheaper than online.:bonk:

Sadly my local dealers are averaging around $11 qt, no discounts... :thumbdown:

I pay $5.05/litre at my local dealer for Genuine Toyota synthetic 0W20 SN. That's in Canada, so $11/quart in the States is pretty brutal. It is made by ExxonMobil, but I don't believe it's the same as Mobil 1. This oil gets very good reviews, and has a bit of a following over on the BITOG forums. I have been using it in the FR-S since late last summer. The car doesn't burn a drop between oil changes (I do change it often though at about 5000kms/~3K miles). I also use it in my dad's Accord, and in my sister's Civic. They have no problems with oil consumtion either.

I'd recommend getting the oil filter from your local Subaru dealer. It should be about half the cost for the exact same filter you get from the Toyota/Scion dealer. You will want Subaru part # 15208AA130. Don't forget to get a new drain plug washer as well.

Damn :(

Has anyone had factory toyota, german castrol, motul, and enoes analyzed? I would like to see how they stack up against each other.

It seems in the subaru/bmw world german castrol is rated super high.

A couple of random $25-$30 uoa's are not really a good indicator of how well oils stack up against each other. IMO, GC is probably overkill for most BRZ/FR-S applications. It has an HTHS similar to some 40 weights (which is one way it meets Euro specs) and has a kinematic viscosity close to a 40 weight.

-Dennis

My local Toyota dealership gave me 12 bottles of Toyota 0W-20 with 2 oil filters /w crusher washer for $85. I think for the summer I might go with Castrol German but i'll have to research if it's too heavy of an oil.

you should read this article
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

AMSOIL.

Eneos Sustina 0w20...you wont be let down.

I bought some Eneos 5w20. I'm going to change when its hit 1000 mile. We shall see how that going to run.

subaru and toyota engineers decided that our engine is capable to use 0w-20. They knew this was a sports car and have anticipated accordingly. I use 0w-20 Mobil 1.

I switched to Amsoil 5w-40 for a track weekend in August and saw a substantial jump in oil temps for daily driving. Sustained highway speed at 70 mph went from ~208 up to ~221.

looking to do my 2nd oil change.. my local auto dealers dont have eneos oil and im going to try that... will the 1 gallon be enough or buy another quart ?

Oil capacity with the oil filter is 5.8 quarts. You'll need 2 extra quarts with the gallon jug.

Thick oil usually runs hotter.

-Dennis

I would keep the factory fill in for at least 3,000 miles. The extra molybdenum probably helps with break in.

-Dennis

Just change my oil today with 5w20 enoeos. Let see how this going to run.

Did my first oil change at 1040 miles with Amsoil 0-20 signature. The factory oil was still a little golden brown. I could've waited till 2500 miles. What i should've done was the tranny flush with Pentosin. That would've smooth the shifting. No biggy i just feel better that it's what i wanted to do.

Actually, you could have waited much longer than 2,500 miles.

-Dennis

Capable and ideal are two different things. Most of the foreign service manuals I've seen call for 5w-30.

A mod on here with an actual oil pressure gauge reported a drop in oil pressure near redline with ow-20. Most in the know it seemed to have quietly have moved to a 30 weight with this engine.

If you still want a high VI oil, there is the Catterham blend. Which is 0w-30. If you add a pint of Mobile 1 Racing oil 0W-30 it puts the ZDDP and moly near Motul 300V levels.

Whats this i hear about wrx guys loving rotella t6?

Is Subaru oem oil 100% synthetic?

IMHO, it all depends on what you're going to use the car for. For my 86, i use 0w-20 Mobile 1. I'm not doing any competitive driving or tracking. So far this oil has worked well for me.

This is true. Great bang for the buck in a WRX but there is no Rotella 0W-20.
:cheers:

It's made from Group III base stocks. The most important thing though is the overall oil package, how the oil holds up in a particular application, and that it meets the specs in your owner's manual. See Jolaessss's reply.
:burnrubber:
-Dennis

^ Yup, Rotella T6 was great for the imprezas. I used it all the time in my wagon.

I will be turboing my car. Thinking of going w/ penzoil ultra 5w30 or Penzoil Platinum 0w30. I love penzoil and swear by eat plus leaves engine inards shiny clean. AMSoil seems like a good choice as well but I have yet to find a local distributer, and Penzoil Ultra is cheaper...


and ferraris use it :D

When the car is engineered for 0-20w oil.. It's more to it than just vi.
Adding zddp adds phosphorus above the 800 ppm that adversely affects the cats and emissions. More to it than someone's special oil mix. Maybe the engineers know a few things we should listen to.. Especially long term and warranty wise..

I agree, and 0w20 oils tend to be high quality. Keep in mind that this oil was chosen for daily use, NOT for track and constant heavy engine demand! For this a heavier oil is recommended. Its always better to go with the lightest oil recommended for the engine if you just daily drive (including spirited driving... Not constantly at WOT).


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And unfortunately, we don't get to see the engineers' direct recommendations since our owner's manuals are written by Subaru of America and Toyota USA (with Corporate Average Fuel Economy in mind) and not by Fuji Heavy Industries. :)

It depends on the oil really. There are good uoa's here on Red Line 0W-20 from a supercharged, tracked car. No need to go to a thicker viscosity if the oil is up to the task!

-Dennis

same here. mobile 1 ow-20

What oil will you use?
 

Ill take any excuse to put in 0w20 in my turboed car lol. But im going by what subaru recommends for its FI boxerd


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Actually, I would probably run Red Line 0W-20 over any Resource Conserving 5W-30 in my FI boxer. As quickly as some RC 5W-30's shear, Red Line 0W-20 will probably have thicker viscosity after severe condition usage than some 5W-30's.

RL 0W-20 is 9.1 cSt's. You can find many WRX uoa's where a typical RC 5W-30 has sheared to a thinner viscosity than this in as little as 2,000 miles.

PU 5W-30 actually holds up well in WRX's in mainly stock, highway (easy) driven cars (based on several uoa's by KHP on bitog). As for Amsoil, HDD 5W-30 Series 3000 is a very robust oil. The Amsoil SS, XL, and OE 5W-30's are typical girly man oils (with SS being slightly better but still shear prone).:D

-Dennis

Thanks for the info :D
Reassures me on my use of PU (street driven turbo car... Not much WOT/caressed)---> until that s2k starts showing off >:~(


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My dealership has been using Toyota 0w-20 synthetic and I've used M1 0w-20 AFE synthetic in between dealership changes. Multiple track days, autocrosses, and daily driving. No problems so far and the engine seems to run stronger as I put more miles on.