Are you talking about these?

If it's clicking surely the cage has failed but not has not got to the point of catastrophically failed.

Mine clicked forever before it actually snapped.

Got my broken axle out - same thing as everyone else - snapped the cage in two pieces.

Definitely happened b/c of power AND axle angle, as i hit a dip in the road while accelerating. Ugh. At least I have a spare.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psb7a96bb9.jpg

Anyone knows what causes the humming noise when driving? My tires are fine so I know that's not the cause.

Wheel bearing

Car: BRZ '13 (878th made)
Miles: 36500 (happened around 10k miles ago I'm guessing
Use: Daily with 3 track days and 3 autox per year. One drag race with 4 pulls
Suspension: RCE yellow w/ Koni yellow ~1" lower
Power: 250WHP/200WTQ
Forced Induction: Yes, PD supercharger (Innovate intercooled with 70mm pulley)
Axle broke story: Rear drivers side, probably cv joint next to wheel. Just started making a faint click one day randomly. Got a little worse over time. Replaced the axle nut and it went away for about a week. Started clicking again. Tracked the car multiple times and autox with click noise. So far nothing bad has happened. I've taken it to 5 dealers in my area and all of them won't touch my car since it has 'aftermarket suspension components' on it. I even put the stock springs/shocks back on, removed the rear diffuser, and put the rear sway bar back on and still got that story from them. I don't really want to replace the axle with another stock axle if this many people are having issues, so I may just drive it until it breaks and then get the drive shaft shop axles instead even though they cost twice the amount. Although maybe I shouldn't drive it until it breaks because if it breaks on the track while breaking going 120mph, that may not end well.

I have that same suspension setup. Had the clicking last year was replaced under warranty. Not sure why you have issues.

Am I the only one to break the same axel twice?

The dealers around here don't want to work on modified cars. If you're from the northwest please give me the dealer and mechanic info so I can take it to the same place you did.

Sorry Midwest. I would esclate this to someone higher up.

I wonder if this might have been something that might have affected earlier cars more? I have no idea how or why that would be but it seems like I didn't see as many reports this year of axles breaking than I did the previous year.

My car had 350 autox runs this season and no signs of impending axle failure yet, but I'm sure I'm on borrowed time (I have 2 spare axles). Lowered around 1-1.25".

this is what i did to try and alleviate the problem of breaking axles, the notching of the subframe was necessary to keep the DSS axles. This was a lot of work and a big pain in the ass.

PBM Diff/Subframe Risers and Subframe Notch

I'm going to bring this thread back. I went to have my oil changed yesterday and was informed that my "front cv axle" has a leak. Obviously that's impossible, it's not a FWD car. However, I looked around the rear to see if I could spot any grease slung on anything and couldn't see a drop. I don't hear any clicking noises from the rear either. I'm lowered around 5 inches, which is a lot of strain on the CV joints/boots however, I'm thinking the Toyota dealership thinks I'm just some young guy that doesn't know anything about a vehicle and wants me to spend money. It does have me worried now. How much does a replacement axle run for? I couldn't find anything online really besides a whole kit for 600+ hp.

When I broke mine I just found a used one for about $100.

Looks like it'll be a while before the Pep Boys and Autozones start selling them.

400 bucks according to the subie parts site which, BTW, is not bad for a new one.

If you pre-load the axle and suspension before a hard launch it should reduce the heavy load on the CV cage. Also if you are racing, autocross or whatever and you don't turn of the VSC,TRC,and pull the ABS you are trying the spin the rear wheels when the nannies are trying to hold you back and thus putting even more stress on the bearing cage. I suggest pedal dance and pull the ABS fuse and if you have to make sure you pre-load the axles before you launch.

Necro'ing this thread: Seem to have broken an axle last Friday at the drag strip. 4 runs in total @428/330 with the third launch experiencing some bad axle hop (was trying to be a bit more aggressive on the launch that time). I am getting some clicking from the left rear when sharply turning left and applying throttle. Will be taking it in for a repair at the stealership tomorrow…hope it's not too expensive.

Save yourself the money, buy these two - have an extra, and swap it yourself.
Takes maybe 30 minutes, easy 1 person job.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-SUBARU-...ca1c10&vxp=mtr

I've found new axels on eBay for ~$100. But the rarely pop up on there. I just buy them when I see them. I have one in the garage at home now.

lol me too - that's where i got mine. Could also try places like LKQ and other car part companies.

Dealer has replaced both of my axles under warranty.
The clicking begins on starts only then progress to shifting (up or down) and then cornering.

I am at 25k miles with effectively no track time.
However I bought it used at 9k miles so no telling what the PO did to it.

When your car rolls in super low on wide autoX wheels/tires with a big "Tire Rack" banner on the windshield warranty sorta doesn't work anymore. Plus I have 97,000 miles on my car now anyway.

Ditto - only my supercharger pretty much took me out of warranty consideration at 5k miles.

Wish I knew how many miles were on them. Dealer tech couldn't hear the noise I described, so they don't agree it's broken. Wanted $400 for oem axle plus 2-3hrs labor! Torn between buying those oem replacements for cheap if they are not too used and buying DSS 600hp axles that will never break again.

Well - at the end of the day, the axles typically don't break from a ludicrous about of power, they brake from weird ass angles while applying power, big bumps, etc.

So as long as you treat the stock ones well, the should hold up for a good long time.

Take the used ones - no reason to suspect they are abused or anything. Grab this one - 7k miles
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scion-FR-S-S...25.m3641.l6368

I bought my used engine from LKQ and it was in great shape.

If it's just clicking that does not necessarily mean it's on the way to failure, there are many people who have had the axle nut slip, having the nut re-torqued has solved clicking noises in the past and the axles have survived for tens of thousands of miles afterwards. I would believe that after a few hard launches something slipped creating the noise. I'd angle for that, should be a simple job that falls under basic warranty work for well under an hour.

Just my 2 cents before you go tearing apart your rear end and blowing a couple hundred bucks.

Can the clicking be continuous while driving? Even when cursing around town?

Someone with a BRZ a few days was asking me, i wasn't sure how to answer. I told him that it happens under load, so i supposed that cursing around town could cause it as well...

Going to have a mechanic friend take a look at it one evening soon. I sure do hope you've given me some successful advice!

Eh. Do you AutoX or track? My CV and diff blew up on the track last weekend after the deadly clicking for several weeks on the street. It'll take more than the axle nut. Several people have reported the clicking continuing after re-torquing. The culprit is the axle angle, it just is not up to the task of hard corners and acceleration.
The only solutions I can find are diff risers or bushing inserts. I wish we had shaft spacers like the S2k's.
Another piece of advice. Don't use lowering springs like I did. They increase the angle and don't provide much more resistance to axle travel than the stock springs. If you go lower, use coils to prevent the axles from reaching as extreme of angles.

Haha, there's a long thread for what I am now experiencing..

Anyway, hearing clicking from the rear left when turning left and accelerating, so I guess that's a bad axle then? 12.4k miles, 2013 GT86.

But I think I also heard a rattle when the transmission was in motion, but car stationary. Went away when I clutched, or the trans slowed down, what could that be? Came almost at the exact same time I heard the clicking from the rear. Wasn't there before.

Also should add that the car is completely stock beside TRD springs, which it had from the factory.

How is the transmission moving when the car is not?

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I was at the drag strip and got a lot of wheel hop during one launch. The coils probably allow quite a bit of squat (7k rates all around), so the hop plus exaggerated angle greater than what it normally sees on the street most likely caused it. I am lowered what I estimate to be about 2-2.5" on BC coils with the Swift springs (don't buy these!! if I could afford to do it over again right now I would absolutely go for the 2k+ coils!!) The clicking is experienced only when the drivetrain is cold. The dealer tech couldn't hear the noise, and even when I thought that taking him for a ride so I could point it out would help, it didn't happen--the car was already warmed up. As the OEM axles are $400 and they seem to think it will take 3hrs to install them(!), I am holding off for now. Trying to decide if I should keep this car and continue down this expensive rabbit hole I'm already deep into or move on. Will probably go with DSS 600 axles as a pair when I'm forced to...

To everyone that thinks that the DSS axles will solve the problem alone, think again. Must address the real problem of the angle.

This is the biggest and really only major engineering/design flaw of this car.

I was in gear and stopped, put the clutch down and heard what was either the clutch or trans spinning down, and this rattle slowed down with it, that's how I meant :)

But, I drove the car for 30 minutes today, and the only thing making a sound was a rock stuck in the rear left tire.. Removed it, and heard nothing since then. Sounds really silly, but it didn't sound like a rock at all when I first heard it, but the car is not making any noise, clicking or rattle now. Confused..

Just want to chime in,
at 31,000 miles. Around 205whp on E85
clicking is ONLY happening when I am reversing up a hill or going forward from a standstill and I don't give it enough gas. It's not a normal occurrence to hear.

It sounded like it was coming from the passenger side.
I am lowered 1.4" on eibachs, mainly spirited street driving and some clutch dumping.

Again since it's not a continuous click and I can do a full day of daily driving without hearing it (only certain circumstances under low speeds and stress it happens)
Could it just need regreasing and torquing?

so currently whats the best way to solve this, stronger cv joints? getting replacement ones that will break again seems like a waste of time.
i've only lowered recently and want to prevent this from happening, car isn't tracked and is an auto so no clutch dumping.

also 2012 model, will 13' 14' axles fit? (cant imagine it would be fine) car has 40,000 miles on it.

^ just get a stronger after market axle, don't get OEM replacement


or u can get that Subaru BRZ tS axle if u have the $$$ to blow.

This isn't exactly wrong, just a little misleading. Coilovers will not magically save your axles. Springs and coils both do exactly the same thing in regards to lowering by placing the wheel deeper into it's travel. Neither change anything about the suspension geometry, it still follows the same path, and the axle still follows the same deflection. The issue stems from deep lowering. Both springs and coilovers are capable of lowering the car too much, adversely affecting shaft angle. This part we can all agree on.

The only beneficial thing coilovers might offer over springs (and the point I believe you're trying to make) is stiffness; under extreme compression a coilover might theoretically resist bottoming a little more. This is extremely difficult to prove however, as coilovers would need to be individually measured for spring stiffness, damper settings, eye to eye, stroke, bump stop thickness/durometer, etc. IMO it's too many variables to lay a blanket statement.

There is no 2012 model...

Just keep using your current axles under you can audible hear a click from a stand still to moving. That will be the sign that it's starting to fail

Look into the DSS axles, they have a different designed cv joint that allows more leeway in the angles and it's rated up to 600hp :)

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its stamped 2012 here in aus. first model.
looking into these, but from what ive seen doesnt look too promising.