I sent an email to NorthWestJDMMotors and tried to call. No answer so far. I’ll probably get a motor this month or early next month.

RSX Type-S oil pumps are in short supply like many things. KPower is prioritizing selling these to people who bought their swap kits, and I’m 98% sure it is required to use their oil pan. FYI.

4Piston's ported pump won't work?

I’m not sure if their kit will work with the swapped oil pan, but the pump probably will.

Still backordered or in short supply.

That oil pump is good insurance like they said, but I won’t be revving the motor out to 9k.

That's fair. Whats your power goal?

I’m still debating what I want to do. I may stay NA/E85 for a few years and then go turbo after nursing school, or I may go with a modest turbo build and then do a built motor and the works later. If I do a turbo now, I may stick with sub 400whp for now, so fairly modest goals. The K24 can handle 450whp with stock internals, but I don’t want to be near that for now. Part of that is for reliability with the motor and part of it is for reliability with the tranny, and so I can keep the current clutch. 8k 350-400whp is plenty for now, and it approximates what I had before.

I’m debating on what I should do for a turbo. I would want lower turbo lag, and I don’t want the boost threshold to be too high in the powerband, but I would also prefer something that is large enough that it pulls all the way to redline and doesn’t fall off. The GTX3071R seems to pop up a lot in my searches, but I don’t know about all the differences in the GTX series. Seems like there is a lot of overlap because a given turbo can have different ar housings and internals, and it just makes choosing a “perfect” difficult—options overload.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overchoice

I personally would wait until you get the motor in there. K series motors have a way of turning people onto the all motor idea. A ported k24a2 head with a nice set of cams and upgraded valve springs/retainers will easily get you close to 300 (assuming you run the Kpower IM, header, haltech, cam gear, etc.).

I’ll probably do that just because of cost and reliability until after nursing school, but there will definitely be a turbo in the future. This way I can sort out any issues before boost too.

So much truth to this. There is just something magical about Honda NA engines. I drove my S2K last week and was quickly reminded how enjoyable the VTEC powerplants are. I dream about doing a K24 conversion with my 86 but the problem is insuring the car afterwards might be a problem with such extensive modifications. I will have to look into that more.

Like I said before, my build and this car is more classic GT than a sports coupe. If I was doing this to a Lotus or Miata then I would probably stay NA for the purity and throttle response, but at this weight, it needs a turbo. I’m sure NA will be fun, but I would always want more power. At least with this route, I’ll have some time NA.

damn Jzilla is doing a track day at VIR in September.....I pray to the track day gods this kit will be out and I will be running by then.

Hopefully they follow through with their timeline, which unofficially is preorders next month and releasing the kit one month later in July.

You build your build for you and your desires. I believe Petah was speaking for his own personal feelings on the subject. As a former dc5 owner and having torn into the head of the k20a2, I have my own inclinations towards the high revving NA power of the k series. There is so much potential its shocking. That said, how I approach power gains for the FA20 versus how I would approach a k24a2 is completely different.

Any idea on the price?

They won't release pricing until its market ready. :(

I asked them, while saying I wasn’t expecting them to reveal much. They said similar to the packages for the Miata swas, which doesn’t say much except that there will be different tiers and pricing above $5k for the ultimate package. Here are the components I am expecting to come from them:

KPower Oil Pan
KPower Intake Manifold
KPower Engine Mounts
KPower Transmission Mounts
KPower Transmission Adapter
KPower Shifter Adapter/Carrier
Aluminum Driveshaft
Hydraulic TOB
Engine Harness
Haltech/CANBUS Converter/software/base tune
Headers
Coolant Pipes
Misc clamps, hoses, etc

There are other items that could be purchased from them or from somewhere else, and if it is from them then it could be in the package or on the side:

RSX Oil Pump
Haltech Elite 1500
AC lines/conversion kit
Fuel Rail

They said they will be producing supporting products for a turbo or supercharger, and they are working on a BMW transmission conversion.

@CSG Mike
@The Racers Line

Does Zach tune K24s on Haltech or FA20s only ECUTEK? I will need a dyno and a tuner in the Bay Area hopefully by the end of summer.

Sure does

There was a guy who got a K running on the FA20 ECU. Thread has since been nuked.... but imagine if that was standardized....

Does the kit come with the vtc gear? If it comes with a tune then this would definitely change things up. Might be one of those options at check out.

Thanks. I think overall, just for the swap parts, we are looking at about $7-8k plus the engine. I guess the engine build can add up quickly if you want head work, cams, valvetrain. Sounds like this is indeed an expensive swap.

I always hoped that this was an option, it will also retain all of factory reliability and options. Again, we can always hope.

I have no idea what it comes standard with, but they do sell the 50 degree VTC gear alone and as parts of engine refresher kits. They also can add and subtract parts from kits and adjust the prices, they told me, so if the swap kits all have a header, but someone is going turbo then that could be omitted and tge price adjusted.

https://kpower.industries/collection...egree-vtc-gear

https://kpower.industries/collection...-parts-package

Always cryptic with your words sir. :cool: They mentioned in the blog there would be a stock ECU option, and Solidsnake11 was running it with ECUTEK. I already have ECUTEK, so should I hang onto that and my stock ECU, or should I get the Haltech? They said to save the stock throttle body from the FA20, but I have pretty much recycled or tossed all the other sensors/parts, so if this is an option then hopefully I didn’t toss other things that are needed. :bonk:

They also mentioned there would be a base tune on the Haltech to get someone down the road to a dyno tuner. :help:

It isn't cheap, but it isn't all bad. For just doing a straight swap, apples to apples, someone would need a K24A2 engine and their kit and misc parts. A used FA20 engine goes from $2500 minimum, but averages around $3500-4500 from what I have seen on eBay and places. If someone sold their stock engine then they could have some cash to get the swap kit. Even if the rest cost $5k, they have an extra 400cc motor with the potential to add boost to 450whp, which is 100hp more than the stock FA20, and if the engine explodes then a new K24 engine is $750 and not another $4000. Moreover, the platform is much easier to build for NA or boosted power. Piston and rods and basic builds can net 700+whp. Headwork is far easier and probably cheaper on the K24, so apples to apples comparisons, there is something to gain, but it will take money beyond the swap to reap most of the benefits. If all someone did was add the RSX oil pump, installed the VTC gear and headers and E85 then they would be into some decent NA horsepower and have a more reliable engine to take to the track, IMO. This is almost like adding a CARB kit FI boost levels to the FA20, but with 150lbs less weight. Here they show similar mods as I just mentioned hitting around 250whp.

https://www.k20a.org/threads/06-k24a.../#post-2831938

It's never cryptic. It's just enough info for those who care to research on their own, or dig deeper on their own accord.

A guy had a K swap, running on a FA20 ECU, dual injected, boosted, with full VTEC control. Brilliant work.

Oh I recall, and it has been mentioned here. "Imagine if it had been standardized..." dot dot dots made me think you were referring to something in the works, as it 'there is more to come', but I see you were just saying, 'what if?'.

KPower has mentioned a stock ECU option, but I don't know if their solution is the stock K24 ECU without CANBUS, or if it is the FA20 ECU with a K24 piggyback ECU setup, or if it is something similar to what Solidsnake11 did--an adaptation of the FA20 ECU with ECUTEK. I don't think it will be the latter, but anything is possible.

Is it better to go with a K24z7 or the K24a2?

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

From what I read you can't use a K20 head on the K24Z7. So it ultimately depends on your build goal. I'd also imagine the Z7 is going to be more expensive.

Recommended options from Kpower are the K24A2 or K24Z3.

The K24A2 is what KPower is using for this kit from what I have been told, but they may support the K24Z7 in the future like they do for the Miata. The engine mounts are different, so that would be a critical consideration.

I think the K24A2 will ultimately be better for NA power. The A2 has individual exhaust ports instead of a headifold, and it has VTEC on the exhaust and intake side. It is about half as much money too, as the K24Z7, but more expensive than the K24Z3 ($750 vs $1500+/$350).

The K24Z7 has 11:1 compression vs 10.5:1, and it has stronger rods, from what I have read. It comes with the 50 degree cam, so that doesn't need changing. The exhaust is probably cheaper, easier, lighter and better for packaging, whether we are talking about a NA or turbo setup, but the K24A should still out flow the K24Z because of the exhaust runners and VTEC.

The K24Z would be a good, basic turbo motor. The K24A or K24/K20A Frankenstein would be a better NA motor.

Thanks for that info. Turbo is definitely the route I want to take. I guess wait it out a bit more. O really like the K24Z7. Lowering the comp is no biggie either.

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What do you like about it?

I know all about the advantage of the Ks. I have owned a FA5 (along with a long list of Hondas) so i am well versed of their potential. I love high revving Honda engines. But if all you are doing is a swap in stock K20 or K24, i am not sure if it make sense as it's quite expensive to get minimal gains. But once you start modding the K, the power and reliability gain are tremendous. I guess it depends on how far you are willing to take your build.

It's a dream of mine to K swap my 86. I do love the chassis but I will wait for the verdict of Gen 2 before making any final decisions. Have to crunch some serious numbers first and figure out insurance options. Not sure how well they will take to a Honda engine swap, if they will even insure the car afterwards.

I got some more clarifying information.

The initial release will be with the Haltech only, and KPower said they are a Haltech dealer, so they will sell the Haltech with or without the swap package and vice versa, but that their Haltech unit will ship pre-configured for their harness, so don't go buying a Haltech unit beforehand, but if you have one already or can get one cheap, that will work, but it won't be as simple.

They also said the OEM ECU option is not replicating what Solidsnake11 did, using the stock FA20 ECU. They would be using a Hondadata Kpro along with a CANBUS emulator. They have used ECUs there with Kpro installed, so it isn't necessary to source a stock ECU when buying an engine. I asked if the emulator would allow for all features like ABS, TRAC, ESC, and they said that is the goal. I don't know how much cheaper this option may be, but because it requires a used ECU, Kpro and an emulator, it may not be much different than the Haltech, and I'm assuming the Haltech will be superior.

I also asked about something I recalled from an earlier conversation, which is that they are using the front timing chain tensioner cover for an oil return, which makes it far easier than having to tap the pan. While this isn't on their site yet, they will eventually carry it they said:

www.2nrs.com/products/vented-tensioner-cover

Here is a picture of the stock tensioner location and the product. Seems like a no brainer, so I picked it up.


https://northwestjdmmotors.com/wp-co.../s-l1600-2.jpg
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/04...g?v=1598561364
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/04...g?v=1598561364

The OEM ecu/translator option will be needed for anyone that needs to pass emissions tests that scan for OBD readiness, standalones don't support that. If you don't need that, the haltech will definitely be the better option.

From their newsletter:

Does anyone know if the k24 will require an oil cooler for track duty?

I'd say yes. It's common practice for road raced K's to have an oil cooler.

I bought a k24 to start preparing. I won't really commit until the kit is out for a bit and I see what the issues are as well as the overall price.
Conservatively it would take my cars pw to wt from around 13.5:1 to around 11:1. That's a sizable shift.

Do you mean 12.5:1?

But you get more torque, less weight, cheap parts, high NA potential, easier to work on, etc