My solution implemented, similar to the above:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1354844057

Yes I have. I had my pioneer AVH-X5500BHS's usb port in the back hooked up to this cable, and it goes to the factory harness and that enabled the car's front USB port.

I actually ordered from sonic electronix and the part number/name is AX-TOYUSB.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AX-TOYUSB.html

Brian

Yeah I feel dumb... I figured that out just shortly after I posted. Was sitting infront of the computer thinking I must be doing something wrong.

On another note does this still mean to get the Aux to work with RCAs I will need to tap the 5 wires that somehow convert to TRS(Tip/Ring/Sleve). Any ideas before I used the floppy method but now using the stock harness I don't have that option.

[ame="http://www.amazon.ca/Startech-Com-24-Inch-Internal-Motherboard-USBINT5PIN24/dp/B00906HDZA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1370827172&sr=8-3&keywords=motherboard+cable"]Startech.Com 24-Inch Internal 5-Pin Usb Idc Motherboard Header Female to Female Cable USBINT5PIN24: Amazon.ca: Electronics[/ame]

Wire this into a 4 pole aux cable and you should be all set to retain audio and video on the 3.5mm jack. you wont hack up the harness either as this should plug right in. I just ordered the Pioneer X5500BHS and plan on retaining the OE hookups. I'll let you know how it goes.

This is all you need if you don't care about the 3.5mm jack. I have it and it works perfectly.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AX-TOYUSB.html

Does anyone have an answer to this question?

Also, it's been a while so..is there an adapter for maintaining the factory AUX port without the whole servo cable mess, and if so, I would much appreciate a part number or a link to purchase? :thanks:

@RandomHero I ordered this cable but have not tried adapting it yet. Have you had any luck? Does it work? Where did you get your 3.5mm jack?

If anyone needs this cable, I ordered one and didn't end up using it. It's out of the packge, but unused. I'd sell mine for $12 shipped in the usa. Pm me if anyone wants it.

I didnt end up converting the 3.5mm jack only because I figured I would never end up using it with the Pioneer USB cord and bluetooth combo. Even my laptop has bluetooth so I abandoned that particular part of the conversion project.

However. If you pop the USB/3.5mm jack out of the car you will see the receptical for that plug. All thats left to do is cannibalize a cheap 3.5mm audio cable and voila.

OK. Thanks for the reply. I think I will try it anyway since I have the parts already.

Anyone know if it's the AX-TOYUSB or the AX-TOYUSB-2 that we need? gonna install the AVH-P4400bh. Thanks!

I used this and have both AUX and USB still usable. Not cutting of wires. Just pop out old device (stock USB/AUX input) and replace with this. Plug USB and 3.5 into aftermarket HU and you're golden. It really just pops in and out.

AX-USB-35EXT (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...USB-35EXT.html)

So my approach was a little different in getting the factory USB working with my AVH-X5500BHS - the radio has a USB port on it, so it's just a matter of splicing a USB connector onto the factory harness.

I started by grabbing an old USB mouse - something we all have laying around - and I cut 2 feet of cord with the connector off. I then exposed about 4" of the USB cable, found the wires, and verified that each one made it to a pin on the connector. In this case there are actually 5 links here - shield, ground, power, data 1 & data 2.

Sitting in the car, I pulled the radio out, unplugged everything, and then found the connector. I plugged my cable into the factory socket in the car, and then used the VOM's conductivity tester to validate where the leads where.

They were on this connector:

http://i.imgur.com/yt9INX7.jpg

Using the VOM, I was able to find all five wires on the USB cable in this connector - so I just cut it off. I know some folks are weary about cutting a factory connector, but this is really specialized and really useless - if/when I move on from the FR-S, believe me, the radio goes with the car.

On the old mouse wire, there was a shield, black, green, white and red. These connected pins 1-4 respectively (when facing the USB connector, holes & contacts up..).

In the car, once I peeled back the insulation on the wires, I found the shield, black and red wires easily enough - and the two data wires were bundled together separately. I kept those wires separate, verified conductivity from the red-wire on the mouse USB cable going to the red wire in the cut part of the car harness. Colors matched simply - red to red, black to black, shield to shield. Since I was on a roll, I matched up the data wires similarly - in my case, green (mouse) to brown(car) and white (mouse) to purple (car) respectively.

The end result:

http://i.imgur.com/gdFFbmI.jpg

I used some wire joiners to act as crimp-on connectors for the power, and I'd had enough of the sheild to wrap those together, and then I taped all that down, nice and neat, then did the data - making sure to keep the wires similarly long and well wrapped on each other - then I taped it all down.

At some point if I've got the time, I'll shorten the USB cable and solder the leads - however, it's working great and now I'm using the factory connector.

For those of you who fear messing with USB, please keep in mind something about USB - this is digital signal here - not analog - there's little interference that you'll run into with a setup like this as long as it's well insulated. The key when working with tiny wires, keep your wraps good and clean, tape things down, and make sure to use the heavy wires as anchors.

The final result here is now I can USB link with the stereo using the factory USB plug.

Cheers.