This is a matter of preference, drilling into a plastic trim piece vs poking a hole into the trunk release grommet. I preferred drilling into the OEM designed location for the backup camera, and not interfering with the trunk release button. If for some reason I ever wanted to remove the backup camera, the cleanly drilled hole could be covered with a pop clip or a rubber plug easily enough. Yes, it is off-centered, but most OEM backup cameras (like the one in my wife's Honda Odyseey) are off-centered, and the BRZ Head Unit is calibrated by default for the camera to be off-centered.

-Z

Great tips, l8apxes. I referenced them in my post here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=56

But I wanted to also comment on a couple other tips of yours:

I did the same here. I figure if at some point I find the wire rattling or something, I can move it under the carpet as the OP did. But I think it will be fine here, and it's definitely safe from pinching.

I liked this idea, and also used it on the two green wires to remove the parking grid lines from the backup camera.

One thing I haven't seen people mention is where are you guys tying up and hiding the slack wire between the camera and the head unit? I rolled up and twist-tied under the trunk mat, next to the amp. BTW, this is also where I grounded the camera, with the amp chassis bolt.

Also, after running all the wire, don't forget to leave yourself some slack behind the Head Unit in case you ever have to remove the HU. But be careful not to leave too much slack under the steering wheel--you don't want to take any chance in impeding your foot pedals. I had a friend wreck a car once when something fell and lodged itself under his brake pedal.

-Z

Used this thread to install a Rydeen Duo. Thanks!!!

also, the images are now down...

has anyone try mounting this camera?

http://visiontechamerica.com/site/portfolio/vtk370dl/

is it small enough to be mounting pointing downwards like with the angled cameras?

also could this camera actually point at a steep enough angle to be useful?

Just wanted to say the VTK210C is a no-go, you cannot disable the grid the camera generates. I confirmed that with the factory and sent it back as a result.

I also completed the install using these instructions. Thanks to Runny_Yolk for the terrific post.

Don't be afraid, it was easy enough.

Side Note:
I also tested a second camera with a splitter, plan to use this for a front mounted camera (curb view) The camera works, but I need to find the wire that triggers the radio to display the camera view. It is not detecting video from the camera, only displaying video when reverse trigger activates it.

I can confirm that a Pyle PLCM38FRV also works with the head unit, and has the ability to remove the lines and also is reversable for a forward or reverse view. This is a very cheap camera and appears to be well made, not currently using so no word on durability though.

Nice price on Pyle. Any cheap ones that use the bolt hole to pass the wire through?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

here's a way to add a front cam to go with a rear

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=57644&page=3

If the cam is under the 'plate lights color does not matter really and what you mainly see is the lens which you can't paint.

However it is worth masking the lens just short of its edge and skinning all over the rest with smeared silicone rubber to waterproof.

Great tutorial. I did my rear cam before I read this and realise I was lucky not frying anything as I neglected the battery disconnect step. LET THAT BE A LESSON TO YOU ;) I also picked up some other clues thanks.

From my experience and other posts I would like to share that :

leads exiting the 'plate light thing can go out one of the light holder holes. The holders seal against the metal with foam that is thick enough to absorb the wires. This avoids messing with grommets.

If keen, cover the holes the lights shine down through with colorless plastic to keep dust out, AND refit the light thing with a bead of silicone around the edge where it contacts the metal. Smear the contact area of the metal with petroleum jelly first. Allow the si rubber to skin before driving or dust will stick to it. Doing all this prevents that wet dirt that comes down after you have washed the car.

if feeding thru the conduit between the trunk/boot lid and body you can make slippery inside with silicone spray and also compress/concertina the corrugations, insert the connector as far as possible, pinch it to keep in place, relax your compressed part, repeat etc etc.

rather than along the door sill, the leads can most easily be fed from the trunk/boot between the backs of the rear seats then tucked up under and along the center plastic console edge to under the dash. You can lift the cushion of one seat out to see what u r doing. (Undo the bolt, push the cushion back and press the back of it down to separate a metal loop on the cushion from a hook on the body. Collect all sorts of goodies you may find.

Thank you for the guide, this saved me a ton of headaches when installing my camera.

Does anyone know if the grid lines in the BOYO VTK210C can be eliminated? I ordered the 200 but was sent the 210C, with the explanation the 200 is no longer being made. I tested the 210 and discovered the grid lines are built into the camera. Since the wiring that comes with the 201C is different from the pix for the 200 shown at the start of this thread, I'm not sure how (or if) these grid lines can be shut off. To get rid of the grid lines on the 200 a wire is clipped. Any help is much appreciated!

OK, I just now saw the post saying the grid lines CANNOT be removed from the VTK 210C. Crap. Any suggestions for another camera to mount at the same location as noted in the original post i.e. where factory outline is located?? Thanks again.