So I deleted the fuel pump assembly all together. The fuel pump sounds like it's flowing more easier than before. It used to sound like it was gurgling even before when I was running the turbo kit. However it was still bogging in 3rd and a lot in 4th with a lot of back fire at deceleration. when I got back into the shop and revved it, it blew out a lot of black smoke. I guess those coils and spark plugs we got from the junk yard were junk.

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Hood has been primed and is gonna be painted as soon as it dries.

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The problem you are going to run into now is you aren't going to be using the other side of the gas tank. The tube that attached at the bottom is what sucked the fuel from over the saddle. You could toss another pump in the passenger side and "T" them together though

I was thinking of doing that when I figure out the bogging issue. But the hose is still connected to the main bucket so it should siphon the fuel right? Was the assembly I just removed used the fuel pump to suck fuel from the other side as well? I'm just trying to understand the concept here lol.

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Just did a bit of googling and it seems that the green piece I removed (I guess it's called a jet pump?) Is used to suck the fuel from the other side. I'll probably throw the stock fuel pump in the other side then.

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It will not siphon the fuel without the inner bucket.

In a simplified explanation, Yes, It uses the fuel pump assembly to help suck the fuel from the other side. If you remove the inner basket, you remove the parts needed to make it work.

The hood is installed and I'm really not feeling it lol. I guess I'll live with it until I'm about to install the Supercharger then I'll figure out how to make the throttle body and intake pipe sit lower in the engine bay.

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Anyway, I was able to finally hook up my AFR gauge and it turns out it's actually running really rich (9:1 AFR) which causes it to bog. Probably because I'm not running any o2 sensors but that's easily fixable with a tune. Better rich than lean I guess at least I know the fuel pump is working properly.

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Been awhile guys. We've been having issues with the power steering pump going out and cutting belts. First time it broke in less than 5 miles because of no oil going through it (stupid I know lol). Second time we added an oil reservoir but some debris got stuck in the reservoir causing it to break again.

I've been driving it for over 150 miles now with no issues. Well except for the clutch slipping at anything above half throttle in all gears except 1st and 2nd where it just spins the tires. Time to save up for that new T56. Enjoy the video and sorry about the quality, it was compressed when it was sent to me.

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Car sounds great! I have a dumb question,,,,, why do you have a PS pump???

Because I can't delete it without fabricating a pulley bracket to replace it. I will in the future. Here is the belt routing diagram to have an idea. It's labeled vane pump.

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This sounds so ridiculously incredibly awesome!! :wub::wub::thumbup:

how is the build? love that you did something that is not the normal

Just recently started doing a minor make over.

I was going to custom make a new intake manifold for proper hood fitment but then decided to modify the stock resin/plastic one. Will post the final results when it's done.

I'm also going to redo the cooling pipes and hoses and add a high point to be able to bleed all the air bubbles properly.

I order a Clutch Masters FX725 Twin Disk clutch. Should arrive here any day now. I'll have to redrill the flywheel and hopefully it holds the additional torque.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e628f23d64.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5478b1b26c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0686183236.jpg

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Nice build. Total price in with all the parts?

Thanks. Engine and all of the required parts along with it was about $7k. This includes the whole engine assembly, harness, ECU, throttle body/pedal, sensors, etc.

I would say the labor and fabrication was at most $5k for the mounts, transmission adapter, oil pan, shifter relocation, fuel system, exhaust, etc.

I did the wiring myself but the CAN BUS translator was $1000 with lifetime support and it was worth it for the amount of shipping and chips Gerald (the guy who made the translator) had to make and troubleshoot.

Of course there were some extra costs like the twin disk clutch and modifying the intake manifold and figuring out the cooling system but that's always expected in a one of kind swap.

I will be updating this thread shortly once the car has it's final (hopefully) hood made and properly tuned.

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