Soooo it looks like it just BARELY fits with just the factory carpet and it sitting right in the middle of the trunk. Guess there's no hope trying to put the 10' off to the side...

by tapping in to signal wires and splitting off to RCA can i run those directly into amp and just rely on the builtin crossover in amp or do i have to get a linout converter? I know we dont want to use the cable but runs from the amp to speakers(too powerful and will sound bad). How much power is going into the rear amp? Are these just low power signal wires?

Went with the below two:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure: Car Electronics[/ame]
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B8EJYU/ref=cm_sw_su_dp"]Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW Adapts High Level Speaker to Low Level RCA Adapter: Car Electronics[/ame]
Tapped into the amplified wires coming front stock amp instead of signal wires as per crutchfield's advise. Ran positive through channel by door still. Ran remote level control through center console but haven't mounted it yet. Ran Negative to rear shock mounting bolt. Sounds awful but i only spent about 17 seconds tuning it.
..... site wants me to resize photos and I am lazy so here are the DropBox links:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m58bwn1jjt...2018.54.25.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r1d0kbbzlb...2020.34.52.jpg

Sorry for reviving this thread. I am getting ready to do a Sub and Amp install and I am hoping to get some help. I need RCA capability on the back of the stock BRZ headunit. I just bought a Audiotek AT-HL2 RCA connector. It came with this on the back side of it (see pic).

AudioTek AT-HL2:
A - Gray (Right +)
B - Gray/Black (Right -)
C - White (Left +)
D - White Black (Left -)
E - Yellow (12V Battery)
F - Black (Ground)
G - Blue (12V Remote Output)
H - Brown (Optional Ground)

Refering to this from a post above:
1 - Pink (looks orange?) - Left speaker +
2 - Blue - Right speaker +
3 - Light Green - Left signal +
4 - White - Right signal +
5 - Violet - Left speaker -
6 - Red - Right speaker -
8 - Green - remote signal (use for amp on/off wire)
9 - Yellow - Left Signal -
10 - Sky Blue - Right signal -


So far what I have:
A with 4
B with 10
C with 3
D with 9
E with ?
F with ?
G with ?
H with ?

Questions:

Where it says "right +" that means "right + signal" or "right + speaker" ?

E - I'm not sure on what to do here. I think this is the power, but not sure where to tap into for this.

F - can I just tap into an existing ground wire? Or does it have to be grounded independantly (requires me to buy ground wire with ground fork tip)

G I think this is N/A since I don't have an amp control

H I don't think this is need since it is optional and F will be grounded

The Audiotek AT-HL2 is a 2-channel LOC (Line Output Converter).

Wires A through F in your table are standard colors for aftermarket audio gear (see this guide at the12volt.com). Wire G is close (usually the proper color is BLUE/WHITE).

Colors 1-10 are from Spaceywilly's post here describing the car's 10-pin harness (factory wires) that is plugged into the small factory amp in the trunk. The OEM amp drives the door speakers.

If you want your RCA jacks at the back of the OEM HU (as you said), you would want to make your connections at the HU, not the OEM amp in the trunk.

In the trunk, you only have access to the HU's front speaker outputs (left/right "signal" +/- listed in Spaceywilly's post), and the OEM amp's outputs that it sends to the door speakers (left/right "speaker" +/- in Spaceywilly's post). You can also access the HU's +12V amp remote trigger signal ("remote signal").

If you were making your connections in the trunk, you would probably want to use the outputs from HU (inputs into the OEM amp), not the outputs from the OEM amp.

Behind the HU you'll have access to all 4 of the HU's speaker outputs, as well as the HU's amp trigger output, +12V, and ground.

Your "E" is indeed power for your Audiotek LOC. In the trunk, you would need to get that from the OEM amp's 6-pin connector (not listed in Spaceywilly's table, but shown on the factory wiring diagram he posted). Likewise for the AT-HL2's ground lead "F".

The LOC's "G" lead is a +12V remote trigger output. I couldn't find any docs or specs on the AT-HL2 (or even a site for the right Audiotek), but when a LOC requires power and ground and has a lead with a remote trigger output, that usually means it has a built-in circuit to detect sound on one its inputs and generate a +12V trigger output. That's intended mainly for OEM HUs that don't generate an amp trigger output.

However, since you have access to the OEM HU's own trigger signal (at either the HU or the OEM amp in the trunk), you really didn't need a LOC with that feature. If you want to use the AT-HL2 anyway, you can probably skip connecting its power and ground leads (E and F).

If you'll be using new amps that require an amp trigger, you do need to connect the HU's trigger output to your new amp's remote trigger input.

To make your connections behind the HU, you might find this harness helpful: 10- & 6-pin combined "breakout" harness. That will match colors A-E on the AT-HL2.

You can also use that breakout harness at the OEM amp. You would want to repin the wires, so that the colors make sense for the way the car's harnesses are pinned there (e.g., move BLACK to the correct pin for ground, YELLOW on +12V Battery, etc.). ADDED: See this thread: How to use the OEM amp Wiring

As you said, the AT-HL2's optional ground lead (BROWN wire) probably won't be needed. Some LOCs have that to combat noise or hum.

I do apologize if these are dumb questions. I have not attempted audio work in years.

Ok. I wasn't too sure if this was after any re-pinning, but I think I am clear on this now. Is the 10 pin connector the same on both sides; the back of the HU and input to the OEM amp?


I assume that direct from the back of the HU it would be a "stronger" connection in terms of signal strength and also any wiring becoming undone.

Even in the trunk it sounds like I have access to all A-G. Maybe I am missing something?

AudioTek AT-HL2:
A - Gray (Right +)
B - Gray/Black (Right -)
C - White (Left +)
D - White Black (Left -)
E - Yellow (12V Battery)
F - Black (Ground)
G - Blue (12V Remote Output)

In between the output from HU and input to the OEM amp is there anything that intercepts the signal? Or is it essentially the same thing as if I were tapping into from either side?

This sounds easier to me. I just need a wiring diagram. I assume that its the same as the input connector on the OEM amp? If not, can you point me in the right direction please.

So this Audiotek LOC requires its own power and grounding. On the back of the HU is there also a 6 pin connector that I can tap into? Or is it a different type of connector?

So I can skip connecting these (below)? I thought from the quote immediately above that I will need to power and ground the LOC. But then it sounds like the LOC that I have has additional features which I don't need b/c the amp already supplies that. So, I can actually skip E and F on my LOC. Correct? Maybe I misunderstood here.

E - Yellow (12V Battery)
F - Black (Ground)
G - Blue (12V Remote Output) (explained below)

I'm using an older version Alpine amp (mrv-f352) for the time being. I want to get a mono amp smaller in size down the road. So I don't think I need to connect G for the time being correct?

I'm trying to go no harness at this point. I am looking to splice and use butt connectors then crimp properly. Just want to get this out of the way this weekend.

Edit:

From Post #22:

I think I can connect like so from the back of the head unit:

1A
5B
2C
6D
4E
7F
G (not needed)

Yes, they are the same physically. However, the pin assignments ("pin-outs") are very different.

No, they would be essentially the same (the levels might be lower in the trunk by a miniscule amount, due to the signals traveling through a few extra feet of wire, but probably not noticeable). The main difference is that behind the HU you also have access to the HU's rear speaker outputs (not available at the connectors in the trunk). In the trunk you have access to the outputs from the OEM amp that go to the door speakers (not available at the HU).

No, that's correct.

No. See the factory wiring diagram in Spaceywilly's post -- the lines run straight from the HU to the amp ("HD2" is just a pair of interconnect harnesses). The lines also T off and go to the front speakers.

If you want the HU's front speaker channels, it would be the same effort tapping behind the HU or tapping at the OEM amp. Again, see diagram in Spaceywilly's post. The full diagrams were posted in another thread here.

Both the HU and OEM amp have 10-pin and 6-pin connectors. You can get +12V Battery and ground at either location, but the pin-outs are completely different. See wiring diagrams.

Correct -- I think you can skip those connections, but I can't say for certain because I don't have any docs about this LOC, and couldn't find any site for the manufacturer.

Most LOCs are "passive" -- they don't require any power for the LOC function. But there is a small chance that yours is "active" (contains powered components for the audio circuits). The amp trigger circuit definitely requires power to work (but you don't need that feature).

The MRV-F352 amp does have a terminal for "remote" trigger input. You don't need the LOC's wire G, but you do need to connect the HU's trigger output to the amp's trigger input.

Since it's a 5-channel amp, you could even use it to power your door speakers instead of the tiny OEM amp. Just be sure to start out with the Alpine amp's GAIN knob all the way down, and turn it up slowly. :)

If you do that, you could use a regular Toyota harness (the type normally used to install an aftermarket HU -- Metra 70-1761, Scosche TA02B, or equivalent -- should be easy to find one locally). Then you won't need to splice into any factory wires. You should re-pin it so the wire colors are in the appropriate pins for their functions (e.g., WHITE wire into 10-pin pin #3, for Left Front Positive. Re-pin the 4 GREEN and VIOLET wires into the pins for the outputs to the door speakers). [ADDED: See this thread: How to use the OEM amp Wiring]. Connect things as follows:

• Front speaker channels (coming from the HU, via the Toyota harness) to your LOC
• LOC's RCAs to the MRV-F352 amp's channel 3 & 4 inputs
• HU's amp trigger to amp's remote terminal
• Amp's channels 3 & 4 outputs to the wires going to your door speakers (via the Toyota harness)
• Configure your amp to get the sub (channel 5) "INPUT CHANNEL" from channels 3+4
• Connect your sub speaker to the amp's channel 5 output

You can use the amp's CROSSOVER knobs to free the door speakers from trying to reproduce the lowest frequencies (which may make them perform a little better).

You can avert problems by not splicing into factory wires, and be able to quickly return to stock. That can be really helpful for troubleshooting, or when you sell the car.

Correct, if you connect behind the HU (except you probably don't need E or F). But it looks like you can do everything you want in the trunk.

Just a bit of info... I see the RCA wires run with the power. This is never a good idea, the reason is the magnetic flux you get off of the power wires really plays havoc with you sound signal. Even a good twisted pair of RCAs will be effected in the long run. Best thing to do is run the power on one side and the audio on the other side of the vehicle.

The other thing that could happen is say God forbid, but you have a short in the main power wire you will not have to worry about it buring a hold in to your RCAs and shorting out the inputs on your amp. A short to ground is bad too, but most amps have fuses there to protect themselves, but not in the RCA side of things.

Just something I noticed a lot of people don't think about or know when they run the wires for the Subs. That and I never like to see anything bad happen to our babies :thumbsup:

Take care,
Jay F.

You are absolutely right, in my case though the power is the only line run to the front of the car. The RCA go to an adapter spliced into the amp directly below. They just look like they're run together, but really just end up in the same place. :) Good tip though.