I only know what I've heard from friends and family up and down the coast from Asbury Park down to LBI and of course what I see on t.v and what cameras I can log into for the DOD. I was watching the Barnegat Coast Guard stations system for awhile, but it went offline and it just became futile. I'll be back this summer to see everyone...

Were resilient. Hugo in the 80's, Ash Wednesday Storm of 1962, and the storm of '44. I listened to stories of two of these and was on LBI and surfing through one of them!

God I love and Hate Jersey! :offtopic:

The cheapest stuff at Walmart, Supertech. It'll get 4-5k mile oil changes, no need for the over priced synthetic for a car that will never see track duty.

My car must drink the blood of virgins and be bathed in the blood of unicorns...you cray.

Cray because I don't like to waste money?

Keep in mind my car is solely a track car and i live in Texas where in the winter rarely go below freezing and in the summer we have plenty of 100+ degree days!

Im either using Motul, Amsoil, or Mobil one. I have never trusted my engine to another oil company.
5w-30 Winter / 5w-40 Summer

Im using Enoes 0w-20 My gas mileage city went 25.6 to 27.4 AND thats after about 90miles driving My car seems to love it. i also got a Hamp Filter. 86Speedfactory hooked it up

Curious - which weight of Redline oil do you recommend for this car? What's in your shop car?

Asking because this thread is all over the place.

If you contact Red Line, they will recommend 0W-20.

-Dennis

I will be using the newer Eneos 0w20 GF-5. FT-86 Speedfactory has it for a decent price.

http://ft86speedfactory.com/eneos-0w...uarts-248.html

I'll be using whatever 0w-20 oil I can get on sale. This time, that was Castrol Edge...next time, who knows.
The difference between commonly available synthetic oils will be statistically insignificant over the life of your average engine, especially considering our cars are naturally aspirated.

If you track the car, then choose an oil to match. Even then, the primary concern is viscosity. Toyota/Subaru specified roughly a 5.2-9.3cSt (20 weight) oil for this engine, so choose an oil that will fall within these specifications at the oil temperatures you are likely to see. For a street car, this would be your average 20 weight oil. If you track the car, and see higher oil temperatures, you'll probably need to step up to a 30 weight or even a 40 weight oil.
A 40 weight oil at 212 degrees F (common temperature on the "street") will be around 14cSt. This same oil at 266 degrees F (common temperature on the "track") will be around 8cSt.

If you use an oil cooler, then everything changes.

Interesting logic. It's probably also worth mentioning the viscosity at start-up. At 60F, a 5W-40 will be approximately 100 centiStokes thicker than a 0W-20.

If the temp is 50F, the 5W-40 will be approximately 180 centiStokes thicker than a 0W-20. My figures are based on using Castrol Edge 0W-20 and 5W-40 and a viscosity calculator.

I would not go with a 40 grade oil on stock internals no matter what the conditions.

-Dennis

Everyone has their logic. Here is mine. I based my selection off Mobil 1 Extended performance because it is readily available, reliable, and relatively cheap. Plus I believe that Mobil/Exxon has more money than any other company out there to develop lube.

If anyone has information about certifications and industry approvals for other brands, it would be nice to see for comparison's sake.

This PDF is gold


1. The Mobil 1 EP line only comes in 5w20, 5w30, and 10w30 flavors because these are the only viscosities that are stable/resist breakdown under a stable load. 0w does not last long enough to receive the proper industry approvals

2. I would consider these three viscosities to be within "spec."

3. protection: 10w30 > 5w30 > 5w20. Why? Look at the ACEA and industry certifications. Google them if you must. They relate to breakdown over time and under load. 10w30 is factory spec for supras.

4. gas mileage: obviously 5w20 will be better than the others due to a lower viscocity.

I would sacrifice mpg and run 5w30 in mine, 10w30 if reasonably boosted, and 5w20 at the bare minimum...

5W-20 is usually even more stable than 5W-30 since more viscosity modifiers are used to create the 5W-30 and many 5W-30's shear to a 20 grade anyway. Also, notice the difference in ZDDP levels between M1 0W-20 and 5W-20 in Mobil1's chart (although manufacturers do increase other anti-wear additives when ZDDP is reduced).

The thing about some of other specifications, like ACEA A1/B1 or even some of the manufacturers specs (like dexos), is that some oils are actually submitted to these bodies and receive formal approvals, while some oils claim to meet these specs but are not actually submitted for certification. You need to look very carefully at language such as "exceeds the requirements of" or "recommended for". Not that it really matters at the end of the day for most applications on this forum.

More ACEA info here:
http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/fi..._Sequences.pdf

To get an idea of the differences in oil specs (API, ACEA, and manufacturers specs), this is a neat tool:
http://www.lubrizol.com/EngineOilAdd...l/default.html

Keeping in mind the disclaimer listed on the site:
-Dennis

Went with Royal Purple 5W20 at ~6000 miles, first oil change was at the subie dealership at ~2900 miles.
My goodness it's not cheap. Picked it up form Autozone for $9.79 /Qt.

Ended up filling approx. 5 1/2 Qts.

Talk about bad timing.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28333
:D

-Dennis

Wait, every time I read one of these threads I get more confused. So the RP 0w20 isn't good? Better to use the 5w20? I've got 12 qts of RP 0w20 left at home and was going to go with Mobil 1 0w20 after I used that up, but now I'm thinking of going out and picking up some more RP 0w20 at Pepboys with that deal they've got going.

Experts please advise...

Also, I get more confused with regards to 0w20 vs 5w20. So what are the benefits, if there are any, to running 5w20 as opposed to 0w20? And in simple terms please. :thanks:

Its important to point out that virtually all 0w-20 oils are synthetic, yet some 5w-20 oils are not, and there is a reason for this.
At operating temperature, they are both 20w oils. The difference is how viscous they get at cold temperatures, and by cold, I mean below freezing.

In day to day use for most of the year, 5w-20 and 0w-20 are completely interchangeable.

However, it could be argued that most 0w-20 oils are better "built" per say. They usually have a higher viscosity index, which will reduce cold start wear and increase efficiency. The trade off is that they are potentially more prone to shearing out of grade (thinning with use). However, 0w-20 oils are historically very shear stable.


If you are buying synthetic oil, then there is no reason not to buy 0w-20. Chances are you are buying a better product. There is always the exception to the rule however...

Okay that does stink, but when you said bad timing I was thinking someone had some engine malfunction or something using RP. BTW, my first name is Dennis as well......crazy....not really, just a coincidence.

Yes, a 0W-20 is important when you take trips to the North Pole. :D

A 0W is tested at -35C and a 5W is tested at -30C.
ASTM D5293- Test Method for Apparent Viscosity of Engine Oils Between -5 and -35 C Using the Cold Crank Simulator This test method covers the laboratory determination of apparent viscosity of engine oils at temperatures between –5 and -35C and at high shear rates.


http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm

Using a viscosity calculator like this one , you can get a general idea of how thick an oil is at a given temperature. Note that below 0C, it isn't as accurate as it is above 0C. You just need to go to the oil web sites to get the 40C and 100C from the product data sheets.

At operating temp., it's a pretty narrow range of viscosities (actual viscosity, not the grade listed on the bottle). A 20 grade starts at 5.6 cSt's and goes to 9.29 cSt's. But if you compare a 0W-20 vs. a 5W-20 at 0C (like Mobil1), the difference is more dramatic. 324.4 cSt's vs. 412.5 cSt's. It all comes down to what will give you the best fuel economy in government tests. Just do some reading on CAFE and CAFE credits. [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corporate_Average_Fuel_Economy"]Corporate Average Fuel Economy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]

It's really splitting hairs between a 5W-20 and 0W-20 though. Most new Subaru turbo owner's are trying to figure out what to run because so many people on the boards run 5W-40, but Subaru of America dropped 5W-40 from the owner's manual and 5W-40's have done very well in turbo's.

-Dennis

^this is all Greek to me but thanks!

very informative posts. What brand/viscocity do you use and what is your reasoning for choosing it?

I have a toyota with an owner's manual recommendation of 0w20 optimum conditions, and 5w30 under harsh conditions/towing/etc. I have been putting my faith in Mobil-1's ACEA pdf and going with the 5w30 EP. What is it about royal purple that has people so excited?

Harsh conditions...i.e conditions that would produce excessively high oil temperatures. Since you aren't going to be towing with your FR-S/BRZ, the only time you'll see high oil temperatures for an extended period of time is during track use.
I'd personally run a 20 weight oil on the street.

As for Royal Purple, there are fanboys for every brand, but I can honestly say that Royal Purple is nothing special. They haven't been anything special since they reformulated their product lineup to meet API specifications a couple years ago. If I could get it on sale, I'd run it...but otherwise, I'd run any other synthetic on the market for a couple dollars less per quart.

Really helpful thread - thanks for all the info. Though I saw something about the free oil changes that is curious - most of you are saying you only get 2 free oil changes?

My rep gave me a document/breakdown that showed 3 free oil changes at 7.5k/15k/22.5k - unless the 3 free changes is a recent thing?

I have 4 x 5L jugs of synth Penzoil Plat 5w20 and 2 x 5L jugs of synth Mobil 1 5w20 (SUV uses it and it was on sale).

The 0w20 is double the price and only comes in 1L containers. I'll be changing out the first oil fill at 8K kms (5k miles) in the next week or so. Canada, but always in a garage and I drive the SUV if it's really cold.

Any pitfalls to using the synthetic Penzoil Plat 5w20 ? I've googled too much and read almost every thread on the subject but they tend to compare a crappy 5/20 with a good 0/20. :(

Eneos 0w20 :thumbsup:

Don't have a BRZ or FR-S but I'm currently running Motul 300V 0W-40 in my Subaru turbo.

The reason is just out of curiosity since Motul recently reformulated the 300V oils, and some of my lowest uoa wear numbers have been with Motul street oils. Oh, and I got it for free from a Subaru dealer with my Subaru MasterCard rewards! :D Keep in mind that Motul 300V doesn't have any API or ILSAC approvals since it's a race oil.

If I didn't run the 300V (or another Motul or Red Line oil that I could also get for free), I would probably run Amsoil or Mobil1. Subaru turbos don't like thin oils so I run 40 weights or thick 30 weights. I'm not brand loyal though and have run many different oils. I choose oil specs/approvals over brand.

-Dennis

Guys I have a question u all sound like Engenieers!!!

I live in Puerto Rico and here is hot all year temperatures from 75 to 105 degrees in the morning is like 65 degrees. Now what oil do you guys recomend?

Run the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer. You really don't need anything else for a daily driver.

Eneos 0W20

This thread made my head hurt.


TMI

any ideas what oil for country that only have summer season??? :p

Quick question for you oil experts,
I know the service log recommends an oil change at 8000km or 7-8 months. I changed my oil twice already (500km into break in) and at 8000km as part of a free scheduled maintenance by the dealer. As I got my last oil change sometime in October at ~8000Km and I winter stored the car in December at ~9000 Km, I intend to take the car out sometime in March, I will only of have run 2000-3000 Km on that oil by the time it is 7-8 months old. Is there actual oil degradation over time or is the 7-8 months only recommended as an easy way to remind people of changing their oil? This has never really been a consideration for me before as I always reached the distance threshold before the allotted time.

Thanks!

Will be using amsoil 0W20 from now on. Heavier 5W30 on track days.

Somebody use redline synthetic 0w-20???

5w30 in the spring/summer/fall
0w20 in the winter

motul

I know people are saying that Mobil 1 might be bad for the car, but I keep hearing that the current 0W20 oil that Toyota is using is Mobil 1. That is what I was planning on running. I've been on too many forums an heard too many dealer nightmares to allow the dealer to touch my car more than necessary. I don't mind paying for the oil changes.

Any confirmation on this?

I think that when companies provide oil to manufacturers for their OEM oil, it can often be a completely different formulation than what they will sell retail. My local Scion dealer wants $12/qt for their oil. At that price, it better have gold flakes or something in it :-)

Instead, I bought a 5qt jug of Mobil 1 0W-20 from Walmart for $25. I'm tempted to send for analysis afterwards just to see if it's really as bad as people have claimed. At less than half the price of more "high end" brands, I can afford to change my oil twice as often and still come out (financially) ahead. I've used Mobil 1 for ten years when I had my Evo VIII with no issues whatsoever. I seriously doubt it's going to melt the FA20 engine.

There's a thread on the forums here about this stuff (link below). It's a nano-oil. I've been reading about them for awhile now and have been considering giving it a try. Your thoughts?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25027


http://performanceracingoils.com/eng...c-3_26_24.html



Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Hmm, for some reason the first link to the forum topic is dead for me. That said, if this stuff is $22/qt. I'd be really curious how they can justify that price point compared to mass market products. The oil market feels very loose to me with makers spouting all kinds of crazy claims. I'm waiting for someone to make a motor with with "snake extract", for extra long life.

The claim in the link was a 6HP increase in the FR-S. They did have a dyno sheet. It's a race oil but you'll notice they make a 0-20. The kit apparently comes with a test kit to test your oil so you can tell when it needs changed. OP said someone had 20K miles on a Jag and it still did not need changed.

Nano-oils I believe will be the waive of the future, but there's just not a lot of info out there.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2