Originally Posted by shif7i7down (Post 1854599)

Quick questing:
Is it better/safer for the phantom system to have the in cabin toggle switch turned off and only turn it on when i know that i will use it.
OR:
Is it better to always keep it on and constantly in drag reduction mode even if i know i won't be going over 4krpm?

Which method would prolong the life of the product or Does it even matter?

Btw:
http://s29.postimg.org/ofjwfixtz/afosz.jpg

Originally Posted by raven1231 (Post 1854607)

I would imagine always keeping it on would be best

Originally Posted by GerryL (Post 1869297)

Hi All,

I have a question for other users. I have recently noted a slight vibration/rattling kind of noise going through the range of 3500 - 4500 RPM under some moderate types of load. It is sort of like the noise one hears from a card in bicycle spoke wheel and seems to be there under some conditions and less under others. It is there whether the system is activated or not.

Rob was not sure, and mentioned that some have discussed a noise associated with valve overlap resulting from the tune. Has anyone else noticed this noise and have any feelings as to its origins?

Originally Posted by GerryL (Post 1869297)

Hi All,

I have a question for other users. I have recently noted a slight vibration/rattling kind of noise going through the range of 3500 - 4500 RPM under some moderate types of load. It is sort of like the noise one hears from a card in bicycle spoke wheel and seems to be there under some conditions and less under others. It is there whether the system is activated or not.

Rob was not sure, and mentioned that some have discussed a noise associated with valve overlap resulting from the tune. Has anyone else noticed this noise and have any feelings as to its origins?

Originally Posted by Sojhinn (Post 1869423)

Yeah we all have it.

Originally Posted by Sojhinn (Post 1854441)

Phantom Aux Charger Install Video

http://youtu.be/vU_SX7OP9Rs

Originally Posted by exE36M3 (Post 1924533)

Thanks for the video!

But dude, next time you work on your car - take off the watch and wedding ring!!!! :)

You don't want them coming in contact with anything electrical on the car... or else you'll cook that body part off in seconds!

Originally Posted by Sojhinn (Post 1925097)

I'll be honest, I'm a little old fashioned when it comes to the ring. I never take it off. As for the watch I usually remove it when working on anything. Im surprised I kept it on.

But good tips! Thanks!

Originally Posted by exE36M3 (Post 1930557)

Not to freak you out but... this is what happens when a wedding ring gets a dose of electricity from the battery.

http://www.finishing.com/131/13189-2.jpg

From Popular Mechanics... "Car batteries store an enormous amount of energy, and they're optimized to deliver it in a very short period of time. A shorted car battery can easily deliver several hundred amps -- more than an arc-welding machine. Within a second, my friend's wedding ring was almost red-hot, and only a fast reaction with his other hand to break the connection by hitting the wrench prevented it from remaining connected long enough to melt. The ring had to be sawed off his finger at the emergency room, and it was more than a month before the burn specialist was sure he wouldn't lose the finger altogether. "

In high school in the 80s - I personally saw a demo of a wedding ring versus jump start cables - the ring went RED hot in less than a second. I don't mean to harp on you man, but your install vid gets A LOT of views and a lot of the young guys have never taken an autoshop class in their lives.

I apologize again for hijacking your thread. The install vid you did is awesome. :)

Originally Posted by Tampa (Post 1944778)

hey guys im interested in the kit, but i cant seem to get hold of rob to order it can anybody help ?

Originally Posted by Tampa (Post 1944778)

hey guys im interested in the kit, but i cant seem to get hold of rob to order it can anybody help ?

Originally Posted by Tampa (Post 1944778)

hey guys im interested in the kit, but i cant seem to get hold of rob to order it can anybody help ?

Originally Posted by Khyron686 (Post 1949364)

For the tune via OFT, we have to use the specific ESC beta maps (2.01 as of now). I don't see any ESC files in the 2.061 release from Sept 6.

Just confirming. Also confused why we needed to send Vish our stock file the first time, but now we can just use the ESC files right off the site?

Originally Posted by Tampa (Post 1944778)

hey guys im interested in the kit, but i cant seem to get hold of rob to order it can anybody help ?

Originally Posted by j_Zer0 (Post 1949423)

I'm having the same issue. PM'd Rob twice two weeks apart. No response :(

Originally Posted by DAEMANO (Post 1949435)

@j_Zer0 and @Tampa

It's been noted before, but Rob gets so much PM and email traffic he can't reply to all of them. However note that if you PM'd he will add you to the wait list. Note that it's pretty deep at the moment. If you have a general question, most of the owner's can help answer or shoot a mention @fenton who is @Robftss right hand man here in the forums.

Originally Posted by JoonPrime (Post 1949449)

is a rob a "small" time vendor? just curious, his esc seems to be quite a hit but all i ever hear of is just the one man. singular. must be a pretty busy guy :P

Originally Posted by Gums (Post 1954907)

Posted this in the main thread some days ago, maybe should have posted it here?

Genesis Battery Test?
Was showing my battery guy the ESC installation the other day. He was impressed (of course) and now wants a kit for his wife's Veloster.

His comment "The design guys did a great job to get the matching of the brushless motor and drive control/charger to operate so efficiently from the garden variety sealed lead acid battery capabilities. Brilliant marketing"

I remember someone was planning to test the genesis batteries (ages ago) and was wondering how they performed?

Tried search thread with no luck other than @fenton and @DC2R playing with other road users :)

Originally Posted by fenton (Post 1955455)

Pretty sure @Bu-Tang was running Odyssey battieries. The verdict was that they did work slightly better(didnt take as long to warm up) but the cost generally would outweigh the potential perforamnce....i think they were 3 times more money or something

Originally Posted by alex345 (Post 1955718)

Hello guys Ill be installing the Phantom ESC along with OFH and OFT, as soon as I get the car to service and back from the 7.5kmiles service I was wondering if the kit will work good with the crawford BPB (Billet Power Blocks) since I know it can affect performance negatively on Force induction.

Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by Shiv@Openflash (Post 1653722)

Also, we had the opportunity to test the Crawford Billet Power Blocks on the dyno as well. Both with and without the Phantom ESC.

Here are the results with and without the BPB. Running the same map.
Run 243 is without the BPB. Run 246 is with the BPB.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k4...ESCwithBPB.jpg

While the BPB work very well with an NA set-up, they don't seem to have the same positive effect when boost is added to the equation. That's not too surprising but it's interesting nonetheless. With the BPB, you can see a small gain in the 6000-6500rpm range but a loss everywhere else. I suspect we could have custom tuned 6500-7500rpm range to pick up the lost power but that remains to be proven. Still, I'm looking forward to more testing/tuning. Anything is possible :)

Cheers,
Shiv

Originally Posted by Shiv@Openflash (Post 1646674)

lol.. of course it does!

Anyway, tested the BPB yesterday with both the Phantom and NA (full bolt on- OFH + Custom bat-back) set ups. With a tank full of 93oct. With the Phantom, it doesn't look like a good match. Lost power just about everywhere. It didn't look promising so I didn't bother with custom tuning with the BPBs. I will probably give it a try when more time permits though. But these results make sense as more airflow would suggest shortening the runners are the way to go.

So then I removed the Phantom and tested just NA (with the OTS Stage 2 UEL map) and it picked up good power in the ~5000-6500rpm range. But lost about equal power above that. Same peak power (187whp). Still worthwhile to many people who would trade off top end power for a lower RPM power peak. So then I custom tuned the heck out of it to the point where it didn't loose much top end while still making the big gains between 5000-6500rpm. Peak power was the same but the area under the curve was much bigger. So definitely an improvement.

The only reason I don't want to immortalize those results now by posting them is because I made some pretty aggressive tuning changes above 6500rpm to regain the lost power. So aggressive that I want to ensure that the mapping is stable down to 91oct. If so, I would consider this a fair test. If not, we would be comparing a conservative tune (without BPB) to an aggressive tune (with BPB).

But I can say that the car drives great with the custom tune and the PBPs. Very noticeable gains without the need to rev it out all the way to 7500rpm. Just give me a couple of days to determine if the custom tune is something that is conservative enough to release to the public. For that, I need to burn off some 93oct, fill up with 91 and then put the car through the wringer.

When time permits I'll do some testing on a totally stock vehicle with just the OFT and the BPB. That will be necessary in order to release Stage 1 to Stage 2 OTS maps for the BPB.

I'll start a new thread (with complete dyno results) after the necessary road tested :)

Cheers,
shiv

Originally Posted by PantsDants (Post 1957379)

So I've noticed I have some corrosive stuff forming on one of my battery terminals (front negative on the standard dump pack, not the big, main terminal). This was one of the batteries I had the arcing mishap on during my install. I haven't taken the cover off to inspect any other terminals just yet.

With this knowledge, should I just clean off the crud, apply corrosion inhibitor and keep an eye on it? Or should I be considering battery replacement at this point? I'm concerned because I thought these were supposed to be sealed batteries. Input is appreciated, thanks.

Originally Posted by PantsDants (Post 1957379)

So I've noticed I have some corrosive stuff forming on one of my battery terminals (front negative on the standard dump pack, not the big, main terminal). This was one of the batteries I had the arcing mishap on during my install. I haven't taken the cover off to inspect any other terminals just yet.

With this knowledge, should I just clean off the crud, apply corrosion inhibitor and keep an eye on it? Or should I be considering battery replacement at this point? I'm concerned because I thought these were supposed to be sealed batteries. Input is appreciated, thanks.