I have had my brz in over 6 times for issues that lead me to believe its a control arm or axle problem. Subaru has given me free alignments/tire rotations. They have replaced the bushings and the car still always pulls right w/ vibration in steering wheel and gas pedal. (Never jumped curbs)...... Anyone else having this issue or have an idea how to fix it.....


I can't drive over 80 mph without my car wanting to jump lanes of traffic (always right and gets worse the faster you go)

If I drive for over 30 min the tpms always comes on and the vibrations begins to get worse. Almost like something is heating up and expanding to the point of it hitting other metal.

In the shop six times? I would start talking lemon law. That's inexcusable.

That doesn't sound anything like an axel issue. Sounds like a bent suspension link if alignment is accurate.

Just found this thread! I had the clicking noise (driver rear tire) NA power with kws lowered bout 2 inches on 255..the click only came on when first pulling away from driveway or if reversing..now with the innovate supercharger on the click comes on (same side) everytime I acceladate:(

New axles are definitely going to find their way into your budget. Personally wanting to SC mine with OEM suspension And i am allowing for axles .

I got the clicking about 6-8 months ago and it's getting worse. Stock suspension and only a tune. Changed from stock tires to michelin pilot super sports also around 6 months ago but no hard launches or autocross since the new tires.

Well, this is disturbing...:thumbdown:

So my 2nd axle is on it's way out. Any suggestions of where to order spares? I think I'm just gonna order two this time so I have a back-up.

I got about 30K miles and 30ish autoX events out of each axle so that's not so bad.

My stock FRS minus an air filter and brake pads broke the LH axel at 12k miles and four track days.

So just curious if i'm experiencing the initial symptoms of a broken axle or not..My car is making the clicking/ticking noise..happens when i'm in 1st and 2nd gear and reverse..car was taken to the dealer and had the control arm bolts loosened, repositioned and retorqued, and the noise went away. 3 days later and the noise is back..Car is completely stock..Just wondering since re-torquing the bolts didn't solve the problem if its possibly related to a broken axle?

FYI apparently the BRZ tS in Japan has beefier axles from the factory... I think someone is trying to get part numbers for them.

Sounds interesting, I wonder if they are going to cost as much, or more than the DSS axles..

I have heard that even with stronger rear axles, if the geometry is not fixed, even the beefier axles can pop due to the angle and stress to the material. If you can raise the rear diff, a stock axle will hold more power when lowered.

Certainly more expensive considering they will need to be shipped from Japan.

And yes, until folks un-slam their cars and fix their geometry, the underlying problem won't be solved and it will keep happening.

Do you guys have any good sources for purchasing stock axels?

Ebay?

This is the first post I've seen with stock power and suspension breaking an axle.

Sorry you had to deal with it, I think it should withstand track days no problem but you're still a very very small minority.

There are none on ebay right now... :(

S2000's have a similar problem with lowered cars...
Someone should develop some alxe spacers - pushing the axles further in by the CV

http://home.tiscali.nl/onlinestorage...and%20diff.JPG
http://robrobinette.com/images/S2000.../SpacersIn.JPG

I think I may be joining this list very soon.

Edit: false alarm, not an axle...yet. combination of the diff brace and exhaust/diffuser interference were generating the sound.

Well went drag racing again. Hopped like a somebitch and still knock on wood haven't broke an axle. I'm lowered on h&r super sports

Car: '14 BRZ
Miles: 7,800
Use: DD, never tracked/autocrossed/abused
Suspension: RCE Yellows (20mm drop)
Power: ~240whp (theoretical/estimate, not dynoed)
Forced Induction: Vortech SC
Axle broke story: Eventually...

I've had ticking going on for a few weeks that's progressively gotten more frequent and I'm feeling I should replace it soon. Started even when I was on stock suspension but given that now I'm slightly lowered and have an SC the dealer's not going to warranty it, granted I should have had it checked out much sooner but I didn't realize it was the axles unless it was too late. Is the 20mm drop geometry likely to repeatedly destroy axles or did I just have a bad one from the factory? I've been considering diff risers but only if it's necessary.

What I'd really like to know is how many people have cars lowered more than 2.5"s and HAVEN'T broken an axle?

I don't plan on driving hard, I just want to like the way my car looks. But I don't want to break anything :(

For anyone who has confirmed it's the axle: does it sound like this?

[ame]http://youtu.be/OZoN6mWBgro[/ame]

Not exactly. That little click/ping could just be the wheel bearing nut needing a re-torque. It's possibly the CV, but I don't think it is.

A bad CV jont sounds like a more regular clicking that happens in time with wheel rotation. The more the joint is deflected, the more prominent the click will be. In a FWD car, the easy way to do this is to turn the wheel to full left/right lock and drive forward/reverse. RWD it's a little harder to deflect the axle, but it should have a more regular clicking.

Wouldn't the spacers make the angle slightly greater?

What is it that causes the CV's to fail? Is it the increased angle, or that when lowered the axles are pulled out of the CV's slightly?

Spacer can't be made for our cars because our cars don't use flange style axles.

I've had this same ticking/clicking noise coming from my drivers side rear axle for the past 2 months and its been resolved after a tech greased my spindle.

First dealership had the car in for 2 days and came back asking for $600 to replace the axle, they blamed my lowering springs. After some back and forth I took the car to another dealership, after that tech read the notes from the last dealership they also concluded it needed a new axle. I succumbed and they ordered the part.

Fast forward to today, i brought the car back to have the axle replaced but one of the senior techs wasn't totally convinced it was an axle issue. After giving him a ride along he had an idea and 20mins later i took the car out for another spin and no more clicking/ticking/tapping noises.

He removed the hub/wheel/axle assembly, cleaned it, greased it, retorqued and boom. Issue resolved.

If you're also encountering this issue I'd recommend you try the above solution first before replacing your axle.

EDIT: Just to be clear, this is the noise i was hearing: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43936

I have the same sound. I'm bone stock. I have a appointment with the dealer tomorrow so we'll see what's up.

Yeah, axle spacers won't help.

The best methods to keep from busting the axles are:
Differential risers
Subframe risers
Upgraded axles

Keep in mind that diff risers, whil raising the diff by almost an inch, is going to dramatically increase the noise entering the cabin from the diff. Subframe risers will help, but not as much as the diff risers. However you won't get the dramatic increase in NVH either. Upgraded axles help but if they're still at an extreme angle, they won't last forever.

Seems like the best solution without sacrificing the daily driveability of the car is upgraded axles and subframe risers. That will raise the subframe by 10mm or so and give you stronger axles to work with.

Add me to the list
498whp
I was attempting to run 10's
Lowered on h&r super sports
43,000kms
Turbod
Drag and drifting
Attachment 90227

Does anyone know the torque spec for the axle nut?

140.1 ft-lbs

Also Add me to the list. Broke it the same weekend as Cale up there ^^^, only mine happened on the way home from the track, 1 mile from home.

Car: BRZ 13
MI: 9,300
Use: Autox, Road Course, Street. Never Dragged it.
Lowered: Yes - see photo below
Power: ~265 to the wheels
Forced Induction: Yes, Vortech S/C
Axle broke story: 2nd major 3 day track event since S/C, 5th overall. Everything went fine on the track, was driving home (~2hrs) and 1 mile from home I hit a sizeable bump in the road and snap, no more power to the wheels. Haven't taken it apart yet - but it's pretty clear:
[ame]http://youtu.be/yRhIxNFClNs[/ame]

The Car as it stands:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psf8c84ceb.jpg

Welll allmost a year later and I've still didn't broke an axle !

Because of this :

http://www.quebecfrs.com/forums/MGal...em.php?id=1629

Without going under the car. How can you tell if the axle is broken? Is there a loud humming noise

It won't move

This thread has the worst title ever

because canada

You'll hear a loud click coming from the broken axle whenever you load it. So when you move from a stop, sudden acceleration, acceleration after a gear change, etc. Sometimes coming off load too, such as in deceleration.

Technically it's not broken at that point, it breaking.

True. But that's all you need for warranty! :thumbup: