AFAIK we still don't know for sure whether or not this is only affecting cars with the Whiteline top hats.

Unsure whether I'm going to bother with the Com-cs at this point until we get more concrete info. Could live with the -1.5 or so camber up front from the WL camber bolts alone if I have to (assuming they can get that much).

For all I know everything might work just fine. Or not. Or I might have issues regardless.

Will be a huge PITA for my installer because I'm going to be watching them like a hawk. Any clunking = redo.

Too many factors. Waiting for RCE write up since they seem to know how to do it right.

for me i'm sure its the top hats. the popping went away for me when the shop reinstalled the stock tops.

Bump for the 'official' RaceCompEngineering writeup. :popcorn: :happy0180:

Driven the car about 200 miles now with the springs.

Started noticing a lot of clunking noise coming from the rear, especially the rear left side. Fronts are fine. It's not annoying but noticeable over low speeds.

Unfortunately I'm traveling for the next 2 weeks so won't be able to take it bak to the shop to look into.

Shouldn't be any noise! Call us when you can.

Instructions coming soon.

I'm out of country on vacation... i won't be able to call...Exchange on PM?

Yes, PM us with some details.

As a few people have posted problems with the lowering spring + Whiteline Com-C strut tops making popping sounds, I wanted to post a bit of an update of my own situation. I gave Whiteline US a call on Monday and got ahold of Jan, who asked me to email him a blurb of the problems I'm having and a copy of the sales invoice. Looks like they're going to be mailing me a new set, and will attempt to diagnose the ones I ship back to see what the problem was. :party0030:

Instructions:
http://www.racecompengineering.com/i...s-instructions


If you have noise, please double check your install to make sure you got the bumpstops and dust boots right.

- Andrew

Why aren't spring compressors used in the disassembly instructions for the rear?

Excellent work I have technicians to do mine but with those instructions i feel like i could do it myself.

For the rear it is not needed because there is very little preload on the springs. Definitely be careful but it is easy with help from a friend.

- Andrew

Good write up. Is there a reason why you state on the last page to torque the lug nuts to 65.7 ft-lbs and not 89 ft-lbs? I thought the specified torque spec for the lug nuts on the brz is 89 ft-lbs. 65.7 ft-lbs is the wrx spec, correct?

that car looks so familiar :thumbup:

And what's up with "swingarm?"

But as far as wheel nut torque goes I don't see a problem with wrx specs. The hubs, lugs, nuts, taper, wheel offset etc are all the same. I think it's kind of odd that they would change it to almost 90-lb ft. But anyhow I usually go for around 85 and consider it more important to use a torque wrench and get them even than the actual number, assuming it's in the right ballpark.

Also, if you don't know how to properly torque lug nuts you probably shouldn't be installing your own springs.

Shouldn't the wheel lug nut torque be 89 lb-ft?

Right, we used the WRX specs. The important part is to keep it even and use a torque wrench like Jamal said.

As for "swingarm"....I have no clue why Dan wrote that instead of lower control arm. :lol:

- Andrew

Just finished installing my RCE starter pack minus the rear camber adjustment kit (looked menacing to get the stock bushings out of the rear upper control arms, didn't even attempt).

I am hearing loud popping/rattling when driving over bumps from the Whiteline top mounts. I installed the springs and reassembled the struts exactly as the instructions were written. Torque specs on all bolts are good. Bump stops and dust covers are correct. I'm willing to bet that swapping the stock top mounts back on will get rid of the noise. It sounds like metal on metal almost like something is loose but I'm certain that everything is tight. Will be calling Myles tomorrow :confused:

Do you hear popping when you are turning?

Regardless, gonna need to take it back to @Evasive Motorsports again and see what's up. This time I'll be sure to bring along the printed manual and have them walk through what they did in detail on the install.

Nope just over bumps

For me it was popping when i was turning also. So i got in contact with whiteline, they sent me a replacement set of top mounts. I think i had bad bearings. Installed new set and no sounds, smooth as butter. Did about 100 miles so far and still good. On the old set, when i spin the bearings it wasn't smooth. The new ones were. Not saying you have bad bearings but thats something to consider. Lets see what Myles think first.

Are you having sounds again?

Definitely has me hopeful that my replacements in the mail from Whiteline do the trick for me also. I've got no popping except when the wheel is turned.

Just talked to Myles. He was extremely helpful. I'm becoming increasingly convinced that Whiteline has put out a bad batch of Com-C top mount bearings and/or there is a washer required for BRZ specific installs in between the black top spring perch and the top mount. Not sure but since it's been reported that the stock top mounts aren't making any noise with the RCE kit then the burden of proof is definitely on Whiteline's shoulders.

Now I'm waiting for Whiteline's NA office to open at 12pm ET so I can call them.

Please keep us informed as to what whiteline says

Yea... clunking in the rear now. It was fine the first day or so after I took it back to have the springs correctly installed.

Just spoke with Jan @ Whiteline US and emailed him my RCE sales invoice to have new Com-C's sent to me. Hopefully I will have them by the end of the week, but who knows. Really hoping that the new ones will be quiet. I don't want to disassemble my struts multiple times to troubleshoot this.

Those with the clinking...did you use the proper tool to remove and install the top nut without spinning the strut/shock shaft? If not you likely damaged the strut/shock internally which is causing the clunk...

http://www.evomoto.com/article_image.../step_302.jpeg

Or one of these and the proper sized allen works too:

http://toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/...ver-System.jpg

Thanks for posting that image and yes, I used a Gearwrench Pass thru socket, which allowed me to get a long allen wrench with a ratchet adapter to hold the shaft steady to remove the top nut.

The Gearwrench set and these:
http://www.northerntool.com/images/p...2589800_lg.jpg
are the most useful tools ever!!!

GearWrench vortex pass-through sockets are my favorites. You'll have to kill me to take them from me. :D Every shadetree mechanic should have a set.

I contacted Jan last Tuesday evening by phone, sent out an email on Wed after getting a copy of my sales order, got a reply asking for me to confirm my shipping address on Thursday (it changed, so I replied with the correct one), and he shipped the replacement ones out on Friday. They're currently en route and due to be delivered to me tomorrow.

Have you been driving with the bad com-c's all week? If so, did the noises get progressively worse? On the fence about swapping the stockers back on at this point... If I drive carefully and consciously avoid bumps its not rattling, so on the highway it's ok for the most part.

Has anyone installed the Whiteline rear camber adjustment kit/bushings themselves? If so, how did you remove the stock bushings? I'm pretty sure those are close to impossible to get out by hand and will require a very powerful tool to remove them.

I use a press for one side and then an air hammer with a chisel bit for the other. You can't press them through and have to pry them out.

Been driving on them for several weeks. I noticed them getting worse and worse, and then when I had it looked at by a local shop a couple weeks ago, they found some loose bolts while they had it up on the lift to see if they could figure it out without taking the wheels off. After they tightened everything, it got better, but it seems to be slowly becoming more frequent and louder again.

However, I don't have any issues on bumps that I've heard; it's only during turning (more than what you need for a lane change).

I'm also sitting on the upper inner bushings, was too scared and ran out of time before I had to head into work to do those myself. Trying to figure out when I can get into a garage to get some of the work done.. Have a few parts ready to install, and I only feel comfortable doing some of them myself.

That doesn't sound like fun at all. The rear upper A arm looks like a bitch to remove too.

I've looked over 3 different diys/instructions and they don't include a step using these tools. Could someone explain for dummies exactly what tools are needed and at which step, why, etc.? Thanks.

For removing the top nut on the strut without the strut turning? Do you use this to torque on the nut too? And which size tools are needed? Thanks.

I think I only used those flexy wrenches for the nuts that secure the top mounts to the car. To remove the top nut on the strut I used the Gearwrench and allen key with ratchet adapter. The RCE instructions posted in this thread tell you which sizes are needed.

What's the max camber you can get from the Comp C's?