TBE as in turbo back exhaust on a NA engine?

I think there is nothing to worry about, the aftermarket parts for the FT-86 will come very quickly due to high demand, specially in Japan and USA.

How bout UK? UK have Prodrive which they have worked on boxer engine since Legy. I'm pretty sure they gonna bring something quickly

Yes exactly I forgot of it. They built a 400 PS Subaru WRX STi, it does 0-60 mph in 3,9 sec without loosing all comfy features.

what could i do
 

to get to 300+hp?
advicez?
thx!
=)

Here you go.

http://www.subaruinthenews.com/wp-co...-WRX-STI-1.jpg

I/H/E

My FT-86 is getting Powerhose Amuse CF hood, lid, roof, doors and titanium headers and catless full exhaust system.

Stage 1: Driver Education-
Team O'Neil Rally school

Stage 2: Suspension and IHE-
Polyurethane bushings
Tein SS Coilovers
Hotchkis Street Sway Bars
Whatever ebay intake most closely resembles the name brand with the best gains and doesn't pull air from under the car. Its a tube with a filter, I don't need to pay $200+ for it.
PPE Engineering EL Headers (assuming they make one)
The rest of the exhaust I'll probably fabricate myself until I decide to go for Titanium for more weight savings.
Stand alone CPU so I can actually tune it.
Wheels: depends on what I like that's reasonably priced and under 18lbs that will fit this car
Tires: Falken Ziex512 or g-Force T/A KDW 2
Adjustable camber links/bolts. No sense in blowing through tires just because the car was dropped an inch.
Shorter tranny gears.
Short Shifter
Slotted Brake rotors
Goodridge Steel brakelines
EBC Yellowstuff Brake pads

Stage 3: Weight savings
Rip out rear seats
Swap out fronts for reclining racing buckets
Rip out interior paneling and sound deadening material
Relocate battery to behind passenger seat
Carbon Fiber Fenders, trunk, hood, roof, doors(maybe), and body kit (depending on if carbon fiber bumpers are actually lighter than stock or not)
Carbon/titanium Drive shaft.
Fidanza lightweight Flywheel
Southbend Clutch


Stage 4: More Powah!
Cams
Titanium valves, springs, and retainers
Bore out the block to a higher displacement (ultimately depends on how much it can safely be bored) with pistons to match.
Connecting rods, depending on how beefy the originals are
Upgrade bearings
High Flow intake manifold
Port and polish the heads
Rotrex C30-94
Upgrade fuel pump?
Front mount intercooler
Transmission and oil coolers
Dual Core aluminum radiator
Rip out AC (maybe)

Other things that may get added if needed:
Carbon Fiber front splitter
APC GTC-200 Adjustable Wing
Strut tower bars
Rear Diffuser
Big brake kit

^ That's a lot of stuff. How long are you planning on taking to do all of this? Did I miss the FI? Saw FMIC but no FI. Why rally school? Not trying to sound critical - just curious.

BTW I hate my BFG KDW 2s... loud as hell for a DD. Tread life seems decent though and traction is pretty good dry/wet around town. Not sure how well they hold up at the track.. maybe someone else here does.

One thing you mentioned that could be interesting is to see how much it can be bored out and the potential gains to be had. I think previous subie 2.0 were typically pushed to 2.2. I'd really like to see 2.5. I've seen some 350Zs bored to 4.2 and TT... craziness.

The FI (assuming you mean Forced Induction) is the Rotrex unit. http://www.rotrex.com/Home.aspx
I chose the O'neil rally school because they train you to drive FWD, RWD, and AWD through some of the roughest road conditions you can encounter. The skills can translate well to just about any other type of driving you can encounter. And I love rally racing :party0030:

As for the Tires, I've never actually had a set of the BFG KDW's It was one of the tires that I decided on a while back, but ended up not coming in the size for my car, I think it was back when I had my protege5. That's when I ended up with a set of the Falkens which I've been using ever since. Its reasonably priced, decent grip, and doesn't wear down too fast for a street car.

How long this is going to take? Years. I'm not going to do all this at once unless I win the lottery.

Sorry, I totally overlooked the Rotrex. I wonder how good the stock differential will be. I had about 8k in parts for my first Z sitting in my garage when it was lemon lawed... I was traveling 100% then so I didn't get another car for about a year. I ended up selling it all for my second bike. Ended up selling that and can't remember for the life of me what I spent that money on... wished I had saved those parts. It's so easy to get into mod mode, especially when you frequent forums like these though. Should be fun...

For the EJ20 there is a 2.2l kit, and for EJ25 a 2.6l kit.

You mean 2.7L? iirc Crowford, Cosworth or somewhere did make 2.7L upgrades

Or you could save yourself some money and just buy a used Ferrari F430...

That's some serious dollars you're spending there!

A good portion of that list probably won't ever happen. :bellyroll: But, if I'm going to have a fast car, I'd rather it be something that I built or modded to make fast with my own hands and tools. I've never been that interested in super cars. The always seemed like it was less "hey, look my car is awesome and I know every bolt on it and how to drive it" and more "Hey look, I have boat loads of cash and no taste!"

I just saw "titanium" everywhere and immediately thought $$$$$$. Heh.

Here's an exhaust tip if you're going to fab your own: A weight/cost compromise between titanium and 'ordinary' 16 gauge 304 stainless steel is to use 20 gauge 321 stainless steel. It is far more corrosion resistant and stronger at high temp than 304. This allows you to use thinner wall tubing and thinner flanges. 16 gauge is about .065" thick wall, whereas 20 gauge is .035" thick wall. It's not going to be quite exactly half the weight, but it will be much less.

But more expensive than 304.

Hey why don't people use aluminum exhaust? It's not like the pipe needs to be strong, even at higher temperature, aluminum is corrosion resistant, and weighs close to nothing...if you polish it well it looks just as shiny as stainless steel, probably more shiny since it has lower coefficient of absorption.

Expands and contracts too much with temp changes. Weak when hot. Probably severe corrosion issues when hot, too.

There are aluminum race mufflers, but a full exhaust wouldn't last very long.

Thanks for the tip! :thumbup:

If the whole thing is aluminum expansion wouldn't be an issue but I guess the headers see some high temperatures and that would be bad. However how much mechanical stress does the exhaust even go through? And how would it have corrosion issues when hot? Sorry if these are dumb questions I sorta don't see what's so bad about aluminum, steel doesn't seem to be any better :iono:

The expansion/contraction, coupled with its weakness as it gets hot (all metals have a curve about how their strength changes with temperatures, some drop off faster than others), and the vibration that the exhaust is subject too, means welds, and possibly the stressed bends are going to break.

This is even true with steel and stainless steel to a lesser degree, as seen by the use of flex sections and slip fitting to relieve stress on the joints. But stainless holds its strength better with temp.

As for the corrosion, maybe I worded it wrong. It's probably something more to do with the temperature of the stuff in the exhaust acting on the aluminum. This isn't something I have much experience with, though. But just think of chemistry, cold acid reacting on something, vs hot acid reacting on something. Aluminum doesn't really resist corrosion, it's that the corrosion on the outside ends up acting like a barrier.

That's the best I can do, sorry.

let me know how that all goes for you... :sigh:

also, there are MUCH better coilovers out there, not to mention brake pads, tires, etc... and instead of changing the ratios in the transmission, just get a new ring and pinion.

Were you just skimming over the posts without reading? It seems that you missed my earlier post about a good portion of that list being more-or-less wishful thinking.

Okay, so you don't like my choice in coilovers, what would you recommend? keep in mind this is a car that most likely no one on this forum has driven yet, so has no idea how it handles in real life let alone modified. Different brands seem to work best for different vehicles, right now we don't know which brands work the best for this particular car. There may end up being some no name brand appear out of left field and produce a part that blows the "better" brands out of the water. Some of the brand stuff that's on that list is there with this concept in mind, and is bound to change as the aftermarket kicks into gear for the FR-S. Some of the brands are also there because I've used them in the past and had good experiences with them.

Half the fun of modifying cars and being part of a community like this is seeing what other people come up with. I doubt everyone here has the same goals for the car, and that's a good thing. Some people are bound to end up using parts that other people wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole, either through brand loyalty or they had a bad experience with the offending brand.

I think what it really boils down to is a whole lot of trial and error and experimentation to explore possibilities to achieve the desired results. Most of this experimentation would be spread out over a lot of different people, rather than just one. For me, I was looking at the Teins because (in theory) they have decent adjustability for a reasonable price. Do I have prior experience with Tein's? No. The only set of Coilover's I've ever had in the past was a set from Ground Control that I had on my Celica. But I'm not afraid to experiment with something I've never used before.

i realized a lot of it was wishful thinking, but why not set the bar a bit higher? :) a lot of the modifications you listed are expensive, so just as an example, here are Moton coilovers for BMWs listed on Turner Motorsports: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-...e-dampers.aspx

AST makes good coilovers as well. KW are reportedly very good, although not in quite the same league as AST and Moton, but much cheaper, closer to Tein prices. Bilstein and Koni should also have high quality coilovers. the difference between a looks/style coilover and a performance coilover is incredible, both in handling and ride quality.

my biggest gripe with your list is that it's so inconsistent. some things listed are worthwhile, and other things on the list are second-rate or nearly pointless.

i do applaud you in putting performance driving school first. :) i'm curious though, why rally school?

Probably because rally drivers are awesome. Tanner Foust, Ken Block, Travis Pastrana (ok, bikes first but still...) just for the US guys.

Probably also the best skill set that can be applied for any driving situation.

I know a good driving school would be one of the first things Id like to do, but they are expensive to say the least. At least while not making much money, but someday Ill get to one. As far as rally schools, Id love to go to Dirt Fish out in Washington. I know there are others but this one just seems right lol http://www.dirtfish.com/

i wouldnt call ken block a good driver. better than us yeah but thats not saying much.



teins make a decent product but i wouldnt go cheaper than flex. and i bet you could take a stock car with decent tires and have a faster car than the one you dreamed of. shoot higher than falken ziex man. i could speak about all these lists but to each his own

I wouldnt say hes great in the Rally but his Gymkhana IMO is brilliant.

:thanks: I'm glad you're being constructive! What pointless stuff would you drop?

This^ Though it seems that I'm only familiar with the American drivers listed here through internet promotional videos or the Dirt games. When I was still really paying attention to rally racing it was drivers like Colin McRae and Sebastien Loeb.
I'd also searched for a while for a driving school that specialized in drifting, but after an hour or so the best I could find was one school and they don't even say where they're located. :iono:

Shhh. Rule #2: We don't talk about it. :bellyroll:

Do not talk about Drift Club?

1jz-gte/2jz-gte(havnt decided yet) swap
Precision 6265 turbo
Greddy 3 row
Weight reduction
Upgraded fuel system(w/sumped fuel cell)
8pt roll cage
More to come!!!!

(this will be a shop car, not a personal vehicle)

ummm no, just no. his videos are edited to reflect the best run of each individual "trick" and pasted together to look like one complete run. any stunt driver in hollywood can do what he does. he's a master of marketing imo cuz he sells those dumb shoes and gets his name on a video game. so instead of colin mcrae we get him? fuck... :mad0260:

So he does several runs of the 'track' and takes the best parts :S I knew something was up when he sucked in the rallies. Well I blame Top Gear they were the ones who introduced me to it.

:barf::mad0259:

It's going to be pointless to try and drive it after that.

So he's not winning against the best in the word, that makes him suck balls?

Considering he's pretty much a successful fashion designer, that decided late in life to become a rally driver, he's doing pretty well.

Plus, even knowing that the gym...ka video was edited (the 6 million sets of tire marks at each stunt kind of give it away) doesn't mean a damn thing to me whenever I watch it. Pure car porn.

World's best rally driving fashion designer ever!

Why cause of to much power, I know about all the disbelief that it will fit, trust me with enough fab'ing anything is possible, so please keep your narrow-minded comments to yourself

yo, 2jz swap. yo, jdm ftw, brah.

Just don't granny shift when you should be double clutching, buster...:bellyroll: