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haha i threw down $7.5k at 2.75% apr back in 2012 - almost done! <$3k left
but yeah i'd rather rush to pay off the car first asian genes man, too strong |
Cool, I'll hop in the potential buyer thingy.
I'm thinking of either leasing a 2016 with a down payment of 5,000 plus the college rebate. That would give me a $210/month lease for 3 years. If I can catch an 0.9% special, I'll be at $450/month for a 4-year finance. Either way I'll probably end up trading it in for the 2018 or 2019 model, or any special edition/release-series FR-S. If I go the BRZ route, I'll trade in for the tS model. I'm planning to work at a Subaru dealership so it may make more sense to go the Subie route. |
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Now, this part makes it unique. I can ensure myself that I will not be driving 12,000 miles a year. I'm looking at about less than 5,000 miles a year. At the lease buyout, I'm supposed to have a car worth $16,XXX with 36,000 miles. But I'll have a car with less than 15,000 miles, so I'm going to carry over an equity that would allow me to get the newer model with no down payment as I'd use the equity in this case. |
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But, people do put money down on leases and get a better deal when they finance their next car, sometimes even getting lower payments than what they were paying during their lease. Sometimes the risk is worth the reward! |
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You can buy down the lease with cash or trade, but as it was pointed out earlier this is not sound logic because you can't control all of your surroundings. You could literally drive right off the lot and get t-boned and you would lose thousands. You would be better to either pay the higher payment with your savings or put that money to work investing than paying down a lease. Also, be mindful that you should carry GAP insurance on a lease in case someone does total the vehicle. The last thing you want is to have to pay cash and be out of a car. Honda leases include GAP but I believe you need to buy them on top with a Toyota lease. |
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