Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=72)
-   -   BRZ won't start. Cranks once. (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151340)

Ultramaroon 10-20-2022 04:22 PM

If the battery is ok, I bet it's the clutch switch. Prior experience here.


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133895

Grady 10-20-2022 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR (Post 3553131)
Let's try lithium batteries. They have almost no resistance which is why they like to burst into flames. The results will be the same because you don't have enough current.

Acualy lithium batteries may start the car. That is why lithium booster packs are so small. Now you would exceed their recommended amp draw and reduce the life of them but none the less. The reason they wold start is they would have less voltage drop when you close the circuit. And the burst into flames is because of their chemistry not internal resistance. Super capacitors have less internal resistance and they do not burst into flames.

All of you theory’s have nothing to do with troubleshooting. You are the one that stated Ohms law. It is called law because electricity behaves exactly that way. Series circuits are voltage dividers. That is what a starter circuit is. Parallel circuits are current dividers.

Go back and read the internal resistance of you battery with your VOM.

Grady 10-20-2022 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kojiro (Post 3551701)
So I usually let my BRZ sit for awhile and I can normally jump start it.
Last time I tried to jump it, it wouldn't start.
Swapped in a good battery and it still had the same issue.
I installed a relatively new starter and left it alone for a few weeks and tried to jump it again today, but same issue.
What's strange is that it'll crank for maybe half a second and gives up. It is a push to start.
I checked some of the relays and they look fine.
I'll be getting a fresh battery tomorrow just in case, but has anyone have experienced the same thing?

Apologize for helping this thread go off the rails when you were just trying to get your car started. Did you get it working yet? If not PM me I will help.

NoHaveMSG 10-20-2022 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grady (Post 3553192)
Apologize for helping this thread go off the rails when you were just trying to get your car started. Did you get it working yet? If not PM me I will help.

Or he can just reply to the thread. His last post here is 7 days ago. If he doesn't want to do the suggested and give results it's open to fuckery.

x808drifter 10-21-2022 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG (Post 3553196)
Or he can just reply to the thread. His last post here is 7 days ago. If he doesn't want to do the suggested and give results it's open to fuckery.

Like most threads stated by alot of newcomers here.

WNDSRFR 10-21-2022 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat (Post 3553140)
If it doesn’t start right off yes.
You don’t have to hold the key either. You can just turn it and let go and it will automatically start if thing are working right. The only difference between the two is how the switch is allowed to activate. The key uses tumblers and the button is a security signal. That is all.
Hell even a physical key without the chip won’t work.
These are not a 55 Buick where turning the key physically allows current to run through the switch to activate the solenoid. The ECU does all that. Either way you are just letting it know you are ready.

But my car starts exactly the same way as a '68 Toyota Corona (my first car). I have to turn the key to the start position and hold it there until the engine is running. If I just turn it and let it go, the starter turns until I let go of the key. And it does not start. It takes at least a second of cranking to get the engine running.

I have the base model FR-S. Is there something wrong with my car? It's been that way since day one but it doesn't bother me because that's the way every car I have owned started.
I've rented a couple Prius's that had the button. Didn't like it. I couldn't tell if the engine was running or not.

Tcoat 10-21-2022 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR (Post 3553280)
But my car starts exactly the same way as a '68 Toyota Corona (my first car). I have to turn the key to the start position and hold it there until the engine is running. If I just turn it and let it go, the starter turns until I let go of the key. And it does not start. It takes at least a second of cranking to get the engine running.

I have the base model FR-S. Is there something wrong with my car? It's been that way since day one but it doesn't bother me because that's the way every car I have owned started.
I've rented a couple Prius's that had the button. Didn't like it. I couldn't tell if the engine was running or not.

You are misunderstanding what I am trying to describe. I think I am not being clear though.
Yes you have to hold the key for a couple of seconds so that it does the same as the button. The button just electronically holds for the same amount you need to hold the key in start. What happens AFTER you hold the key is exactly the same between the two. In both cases you are just sending a signal to the control modules that release the steering lock and actually start the car.
Not knowing if the car starts is a Prius thing and it wouldn’t matter if it was a button or a key.

Kojiro 11-06-2022 03:12 PM

Sorry for the ghosting. Just came back from a work trip.
We figured out the problem and I'm almost too embarrassed to say it lol.
So I normally have to jump start my car after storing away from winter.
What I tend to do is take out the fuse for the horns as the alarm will go off and I don't want to wake my neighbors behind me.
What did I do the last time I took out fuses? I removed the ignition fuse.
I guess this is what happens when you jump the gun and hyper focus on what it could possibly be.

gen3v8 11-06-2022 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat (Post 3551822)
Yep

Order of operations

Battery power both voltage and amps
Battery connections
Fuses/relays/switches (clutch or neutral)
If all these check out THEN starter/alternator/etc

If all these check out OK then you are into wiring and that is a nightmare

6th post in this thread should have jolted a memory?

Kojiro 11-06-2022 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gen3v8 (Post 3555465)
6th post in this thread should have jolted a memory?

It was one of those things that I kept over looking.
I think it's because I was more of checking if they were blown than actually seeing if they were all there.
Even had a friend spend around 30 minutes looking at the fuse box.
It wasn't until he asked me what was different this time that I retraced my steps and we noticed they were missing.
A total facepalm moment.

Grady 11-07-2022 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kojiro (Post 3555510)
It was one of those things that I kept over looking.
I think it's because I was more of checking if they were blown than actually seeing if they were all there.
Even had a friend spend around 30 minutes looking at the fuse box.
It wasn't until he asked me what was different this time that I retraced my steps and we noticed they were missing.
A total facepalm moment.

Glad it was simple, we have all done it.


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