Dude - that really sucks. How can someone who does that as a job not understand how careful you need to be with hood paint, and, more importantly, how important those things are to the types of customers he typically deals with?? :thumbdown:

Reminds me of when I picked up my current car - I told my salesman not to wash it. He asked me why - I said I don't want a brush ever touching my paint. He said, of course, they understand and there is no way they would use brushes. I got there just in time as some 18 year old service tech was about to go at it with a big, ugly brush.

happens all the time. you can tell a dealership no wash and they do it anyway. i've seen paint scuffed from tint jobs where the guy was leaning and putting his hands on the paint. paint gets ripped off cars because guys don't take their time removing old ppf.

Go to a shop that works on exotics and ask who they recommend.

Around here it's about ~$2500 to do the average car, completely in PPF. But they also clay and do any paint correction before they put the PPF on, then they ceramic coat the PPF to help keep it easy to wash.

I'll be doing that on whatever new car I end up buying later this year.

As it should be done. This is the longest part of doing PPF install properly.

Yea that’s what I did. It’s not a silver bullet. The shop had a McLaren (720?), an R8, and a Boxster in it when I picked up my car. Guess my lowly Subie isn’t worth doing it properly?

Give Griot's Correcting Cream a try with one of their orange correcting pads. I was amazed at how easy it removed defects in my paint and didn't mar the paint at all.

I guess i should be clear, its not necessarily the line itself but all the gunk that accumulates there. Also might get uneven paint fading if your car sits in the sun a lot. Just my opinion that one should bite the bullet and do the whole hood.

I do not get gunk at all in over many years. The only thing I got was some clay from a clay bar that I used incorrectly on the joint. Removed it easily and never got anything else after.

I can't say for the fading.

The whole hood is almost twice the price, and isn't worth it for a car that I will not keep forever. This is exactly the slippery slope of ppf, it sure is better to do the entire car but dropping a few thousands for it just isn't worth it. A couple hundreds on the important part is.

I'm thinking in going to keep it sane, do the front bumper and call it a day. I have a feeling that front lower on the GR is going to be a chip magnet. Was quoted $800 for expel ultimate.

Full PPF and ceramic coat on top, if you intend on keeping the car.
If you one of those guys who wants to pay for something indefinitely, it’s probably not worth the investment.

Honestly, no reason other than just not wanting to do it again.

So here’s another question:

Do the Toyota dealers typically do a good job installing the film?

My 2014 FRS that I had for ~3 years had dealer installed PPF front half of the hood/fenders and bumper. It held up very well until I sold it in 2017. Don't know what it's like now.

However, a notable advantage with going to an official XPEL (or your PPF of choice) PPF shop is the warranty. Peeling? They'll replace it. Yellowing? They'll replace it. I guess with factory PPF, you just run the risk of a poor installation or troubles down the line. Not sure if Toyota would cover that with warranty.

At a reputable XPEL PPF shop, they'll give you a pamphlet with your name, license plate, and signatures, allowing you to claim warranty on the PPF at any XPEL location.

As to resale value, not sure how much it matters. That'll probably depend on the buyer, but for me seeing that XPEL pamphlet and knowing a seller went through the trouble gives peace of mind.

I install clear bra for a living so maybe I can help.

First you need to decide if you don’t care for chips or do?

Then determine a budget? $500? $2k?

Second I recommend going directly to an independent installer not a dealership (even though the dealer prices with this specific car are quite cheap. Generally dealers are more than independent shops.)

Most dealerships outsource to local independent shops. Very few have an in-house employee doing the installs.

Ask to see their work on another car.

Work your way from the ground up. Front bumper should be priority before hood.

I personally would skip partial 24” hoods/ fenders and go for full hoods/fenders or don’t do it at all.

Xpel and suntek are the best brands from an installers view. 3m is harder to get a clean install with no stretch marks.

Precut kits or custom bulk installs. All good just depends on skill levels.

Ask for wrapped edges.

Rough prices:

$650 front bumper
$550 full hood
$2000 full front end: bumper, full hood/fenders, lights and mirrors.

If you are on a budget. I personally would work in this order. Front bumper first then full hood then side rockers then lights then everything else.

Ceramic coatings do not protect the paint from chips or abrasion. They should be thought as a more permanent wax. Proper coatings need a paint correction before application! Generally $1k-$3k

Film first then coating after. Never coat before film.

Just my opinion.