NGK Coilpack?
 

Any experienced opinions about the NGK Coil Pack compared to OEM (Denso???).

Just curious: Do you leave your hood open between sessions?

I have an NGK replacement, I have just never had to use it. Coil packs have never been an issue for me for some reason (knocks on wood). I also have 6 or 7 stock coils I have salvaged off used engines I have picked up.

No, come to think of it. Do you think it would help with coils? It's got hood vents and all that jazz. I just didn't really think a small motor would have that issue.

Come to think of it, when my coils have gone bad, it was super early in the session....

I've been doing hpde with my 2013 FRS for a couple of years and have not a problem. 3 out of the 4 coil packs are originals. The #3 was replaced after my rocker arm incident.


I always open my hood after a session. If it works, it's a cheap solution.

I had been going through coil-packs pretty regularly. I even made a thread similar to this one. Recently I started my car and it was only running on three cylinders which led me to find this.
https://i.imgur.com/n3cdvhK.jpg
It's possible this was causing my coil pack issues, or it could just be coincidence, but I'm gong to swap the rest of the plugs and see what they look like.

Extra info: The first(original) coilpack lasted a lot of track time, then they slowly started failing faster and faster, I chalked it up to buying used coilpacks but I have to wonder if it was driven by the plug. However, the car only had 20k when I got it so the original pack was pretty fresh.

Extra info: My header is modified and retains all heat shielding along with the stock overpipe, I almost always keep the hood open after a session and added a hood vent a couple years ago

Sounds like a chicken/egg problem. Looks like your plug got deep fried though. Too much ign advance? bad fuel? wrong heat range on plugs?

Below is a good article. Go to figs 2 and 3. They demonstrate the temperature spikes after the engine is shut off.


https://www.mvfri.org/contracts/Fina...atures%201.pdf

Curious about these as well. Have had nothing but good experience with NGK over my decades wrenching on cars.

Recently got some P0301 codes when pushing into the 7k range. It's intermittent though. I got one a week ago, then one a week later. I pulled the code, cleared it, and haven't had it return. But CELs are always bothersome to me, so I'm starting to chase this one down beyond just pressing reset.

Spoke to a tuning shop, Surgeline in PDX area, and they recommend only OEM coils in their experience. I thought that was odd, but I did mention my car's a daily and not a track car. I'm going to check the coils this weekend and maybe swap one and three to see if I can get the signal to move with the coil pack if I can reproduce it at all. But first, I'll try the pin tweak trick as that will be really simple and, from the sounds of it, it may be all that's needed.

I'm at 106k on a HKS SC system that's been on since ~85k. This is very first CELs in the vehicle. I recall my 01 Outback having ignition issues about this mileage in much the same fashion of throwing misfires when trying to goose it hard. So it may just be time for new coil pack(s). OEMs are kinda spendy compared to other options, and I like NGK products historically so curious for any feedback there.

The high performance models are even more spendy, but if I end up needing to go with IP, Delicious or Cusco in the end, I will. Not there yet, have some more troubleshooting to do.

From reading this entire thread, I gather the 13-14 harness changes in the 15 forward models addressed this issue with better connectors. If this thread is on track, that's what I'm interpreting out of it anyway, and the pin tweak is likely all that's required to gain a better connection to the unit.

I'll dig more this weekend and share my results to contribute to the information on this one. Being mine is intermittent, I don't expect much more than a pin tweak this weekend and another try winding it up high on a hard pull to see what it does.

Wanted to share the pin tweak detail still lacking.

I tweaked all three pins in rotation on the coil assembly just enough you can tell. Had to re-center pins as they moved a bit. Need really small needle nosed pliers or hemostat for this work.
What a tight space to work in with my hands and tools. Moving injection hoses out of bracket gave extra clearance. 1/4" ratchet work at the coil is recommended.

And all these pans, I dropped a two bolts and a ratchet. Fished bolt one and ratchet fine, pulled back fiber pan down a bit to recover back injection cover bolt. Front ones fall in the metal pan. I need to buy some mechanics magnets.

Coil assembly looked fine for it's age at 106k miles. I was impressed. Rubber still in good nick and nothing seal related to give concern. I expect my work is done, but I still haven't hit the problem rpm yet to comment.

Quick follow-up, pin tweak didn't help me. Got an engine light in the same high rev scenario as before. Right at 7k when really going all in on a pull in 3rd. Just got home and checked with code reader. Oddly, it didn't register anything, which puzzles me as it did blink the CEL.

Checked antifreeze in case combustion gases are getting in thinking in regards to head gasket integrity. Looked fine, topped off my overflow can, but it still had normal fluid levels as well.

As a bear as that was to work on for me, I may just take it to a shop for the service. Or save the first round of troubleshooting shop fee and just put a new coil on it and see what happens.
If that fails, I haven't spend $300 to install a $150 part. New to the dedicated coils per cylinder and actually working on them. I'm used to replacing everything at once, but also know some of these coils are closer to the exhaust than others. If the single replacement fixes my issue, great, if they move to others, next round I'll replace everything.

I could do it faster the second go round, but that is some tight working space for big hands. Will get some magnets before the next go round and go find a 1/4" drive 10mm socket to fit in there a little better. I was able to use my 3/8 ratchet, but it was tight.

For me, it's worth the time to jack the car up, take off the bottom cover, loosen the motor mounts, and jack the engine up on one side. You get easy access to the coil pack/plugs, and it saves you back since you don't have to bend over so far.

Only sure fire way to fix it is replace all 4 coil harness's with new style.

Which is the wiring harness kit and the new triangular pin setup versus the linear one. Correct? Is that a pin move to new connectors or cut/splice/heatshrink new connectors? Oye, kit come with waterproof heat shrink?

I can sure see that one and wasn't sure it moved that much. I need to pull an SC hose too. A shop dorked that up by forgetting the SC connections on top for some motor mount changes after my SC add. Oh boy when that pressure hose went. Thought I blew the thing up. Took a screwdriver to fix.

That ended that shop's revenue stream from this customer. Then I changed the oil myself and found several bolts missing and took it back again. Now, I have a new shop, and they're tuners with a dyno. They don't forget the boost hoses.