I'd love to see a full shopping list and installation results after you're all said and done. You've put in a lot of the same research and have the same values in quality and fit&finish that I do.

Yea, I'll definitely snap some pictures, do a review, and I'll make a list for reference.

Yeah I've never used an AUX Cable either. I've mostly used a USB with stored songs/folders and spotify/pandora. I just like to have the option in the rare case I drive a friend, they can plug it in and play instead of having to pair of their bluetooth device, delete it afterwards etc.


I didn't do any plastic trim. I did try to put some around the door speakers and window switches to chase the rattle but ultimately it was because the mids/bass was too high and kept rattling it. I turned it down and went with a sub in the trunk and it solved the rattle problem.

Parts list (prices don't include shipping or tax)

Kenwood DDX919WS..............................$667.80
PAC USB-TY1 adapter cable........................$10.54
Metra 40-LX11 antenna adapter cable..........$11.59

Natika 12V backup camera.........................$39.99

OEM Audio Plus Reference 500Q..............$1,599.00

Noico Sound Deadening.......$65.99x2........$131.98
Noico Finishing Tape..............$8.99x2..........$17.98
Noico Roller............................................ .....$9.99

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Total............................................. .......$2,488.87


A few notes. I actually bought 3 boxes of sound deadening, but only used a quarter to a third of the last box. I think two should cover the majority of the surfaces, as you can see in my pics from My Build in my sig. I only bought one roll of finishing tape, but I could have used a second or third roll and created a perfect, professional finish to all the seams, but ehhh. I mostly used it for areas where the material broke or was cut during the rolling process or on sticky seams. A second roller would have been nice too for when my wife helped out, but we traded off, as I cut and laid down the matting, she rolled what she had laid down. Outside of the tools I own and some zip ties, what is in the list is all that is needed.

How was the process for removing the headliner?

Not bad. I already had my B and C pillar plastics removed, so that made it easier. I loosened the A pillar plastics. There are a few plastic panel plugs to pop out at the rear. Two screws on each visor. A retention clip on either side of the visor retainer needs to be pushed in. Wires are held in by tape and some guide fasteners. After detaching a few harness clips, the headliner can be lowered, but it was probably installed before the windshield, so it might be hard to remove. I just slid mine to the rear a little, so it was out of the way.

I received a birthday gift from my wife yesterday--the Kenwood DRV-N520 Dash Cam. Installing the camera was fairly straight forward. It plugs into the dash cam AV plug, and it plugs into the back of the headunit. There are three wires that I 'T' soldered into the Kenwood harness: red to red, black to black, yellow to yellow; it is obvious which ones.

The Kenwood Dash Cam integrates seamlessly with the Kenwood headunit. I can adjust all the settings from the headunit, as well as, watch and delete recorded videos. There are other features like lane departure warning, collision warning and delayed departure warnings that can be individually turned on and off and work pretty well.