Drove the car two days ago around the block for the first time. Went through all gears without issues. Unfortunately the engine was in limp mode due to some CELs from the air injection system. The throttle wouldn't open past 15-20%. My tuner will disable all the CELs currently showing and hopefully that will snap it out of limp mode. If not I'll have to fork out $600 for bypass modules.

Also our initial coolant hoses were routed the opposite way of how the FA20 was. We didn't think it would matter but the engine hit about 206 degrees while idling without fans and about 200F with both fans on.

Now that we have switched the coolant hoses and removed the thermostat coolant won't go above 190F without fans and below 170F with both fans on. A lower temp thermostat (185F) is on the way to replace the factory one (200F).

The filter was also relocated behind the fog light as I initially wanted. That way it won't catch as much dirt and dust.

The 3rd CAN BUS module arrived but didn't work either. At this point we assume something along the way causes the microchip or some component to fail while shipping. I'll be receiving 5 all at once this time through a different courier. Hopefully at least one of them will work.

In the mean time the hood will be marked and cut by water jet and then to a body shop.

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direction into and out of the radiator doesn't matter, I even had mine backwards. not having a fan shroud, those small motor fans ( I couldn't get enough airflow with the same units) and having both pushers and pullers (pushers are basically a restriction) are the issues. I spent a ton of time figuring out the best way to keep a swap cool. bigger aluminum rad with a full shroud and dual spals with the big motors was the only way that worked perfect. any other way it would be fine for a while, but eventually heat soak to the point the system could not keep up

That's what we thought initially but we switched the flow direction and took out the thermostat at the same time. So the issue might just have been the thermostat only. I do have the Jackson racing dual radiator and oil cooler and it is much thicker than stock.

I also have the fan shroud made by JDL with the biggest spal fans available and the two pushers are spal as well. I had the pushers installed because of the turbo intercooler I had before blocking the air way and in the summer the AC was having a lot of issues due to the condenser not able to dissipate the heat. I might take them off now but I don't think they're that much of a restriction.

Anyway, heat is not an issue at the moment I might switch the direction flow one more time without a thermostat or with a lower temp one to confirm the direction is not an issue. Also it will look much cleaner.

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All CELs relating to the transmission, o2 sensors, emissions and air injection pumps are cleared and disabled. No more limp mode!

Here is a short video of a start up and some revs going into the body shop.
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a6374a8...2gQJuWaMs0.mp4

The hood is currently under the knife

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Forgot about the junk supercharger I borrowed. Had to cut the hood a "little" bit more now that it's on there lol. This is going to be interesting 😂

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Sounds sick!!!

It's weird how the same engine in a different car sounds totally different. Here is my truck with long tubes and two small mufflers on each bank. Kinda the same but not really. I really like how the vibrant muffler makes it sound much deeper and not as raspy.

https://youtu.be/m8OH1VKNN2w


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Who would have thought a truck motor could sound so sexy?!?!

We finally were able to get the dash working along with the power steering! All thanks to my friend Gerald for figuring out all the required CAN IDs and programming the translator. Cruise control is probably not possible at this point since the ECU requires a speed signal from the auto transmission that comes in the truck along with ABS. The 86 ABS however we will try to make it work eventually.

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a6ddfc6...192337_164.mp4

The car is still at the body shop. The hood is almost done. Its gonna have a few layers of fiber on top and then painted and installed by the end of the week. Still not sure if I should color match it or painted black so the 'cowl' doesn't show as much...

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Sounds good!

Paint match, if you don’t like it you could wrap it later or repaint,

Drove the car without limp mode for the first time today. Everything works perfect except that it was bogging under heavy load. It's probably the in tank regulator. Any hints how to remove it or bypass it? There is one already on the fuel rails of the 3UR so it's basically useless.

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VitViper FPR Blank. Click picture

https://vittuned.com/media/catalog/p...p/fprblank.jpg

Ordered. I might try to make the stock one work by drilling a hole through the valve until the blank one gets here. Thanks.

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Hood is almost ready to be primed. I'm leaning more and more to painting it black. White just shows too much unwanted details lol.

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