You may want to check to see if you are leaking oil above the overpupe.


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I’ll check that, but I don’t think that will prove to be an issue. So the weird thing that I have never figured out is that, after having activated the ESC and producing the odor, I’ve come to a stop shortly afterward, opened the hood and there is no odor. That, contrasted with the fact that if I have my windows open when using the system, the odor fills the inside of the car almost immediately. This was one of the first things I noticed and investigated after I used the system for the first time cause I was sure I’d screwed something up in the install.

So my activation issues were related to the two-year-old dump batteries. The voltage on one was below 12.5V. I replaced the ETX16Ls with two Odessey PC 680s and it feels like normal again. Still need to get some data just to confirm, but it definitely feels like it’s at full boost now. Still need to find out if I have the odor after full activation now that I have the check valve in the PCV line.

For those that are interested, here is the confirmatory data log.

https://datazap.me/u/vfrqqq/log-1510...=0&data=1-9-11

Update: Installed Sojhinn's kit and have been etuning with Shiv...

I LOVE THIS ESC! ! !

THANK YOU again for letting me buy it, Sojhinn.

My kit is still for sale, now with an updated price!

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122395

my battery is dead completely due to not driving for while.
is it ok to jump from other car?

So I've recently installed one of these kits. Mine needed to be modified a bit for RHD, so extended (fatter) cables etc.

Anyway - everything seemed to go good for the first few weeks, probably taken the car out a handful of times. But this morning it wouldn't start. The small battery which runs the car didn't have enough charge to turn the car over. I tried jumping the battery from a spare and although I eventually got it running.. it was running rough and hardly at all. I assume there still wasn't enough charge for the ECU.

A few days ago I did mess around with the pedal switch placement.. and I did notice that for some reason when I turned the ignition on the ESC started whirring away.. which was odd. I switched it off using the little volt switch. Then it seemed fine. I put the car back in the shed and that was a few days ago.. now it won't start.

I figure messing with the pedal switch etc is irrelevant as that is on the other battery system. So maybe it's just because I started the car up a couple of times without driving? It's not going to be a very reliable system if I can't turn the car on and off a couple of times.

All the batteries were bought new.. but I have to admit.. they sat on the bench unused (on a trickle charge) for over a year before I installed them.

Battery condition is key with these kits and with a compact starter you won't have nearly the reserve that you had with a full size OEM battery.

I would recommend that you get a new starter battery.

I consider the dump pack and starter battery as wear items. The starter battery about 2 years unless it is jump started several times. The dumps should last 1.5 years till they start to degrade, and should be replaced by 2 years.

The battery was brand new.. but I guess leaving it on a trickle charger for 15months might not have been great for it. But still.. I'm surprised it only lasted 2 weeks of use. There must have been some kind of draw on it for the last 3 days while it was not being used.. Is it a known issue that the car electrical system drains the compact starter battery quickly?

Had similar issue with the ESC running (sometimes) with ignition on. Solved by installing a seperate switch for the ESC/Procede.

Car has an anti rust unit, starter battery will only last a week without C-Tec charger. Basically plug charger in every time I get home. Expecting battery to fail at some stage as it's over 3 years old.

Well I solved this one I think.. and it's a bit embarrassing. The battery was flat.. this much is true. I found out that my boot was left open for 3 days sitting in the shed. So I'm guessing that was enough to flatten my battery. But it didn't explain why when I jumped it - she ran so terribly rough.. spluttering.. dying. I thought the battery was full stuffed and wasn't taking a charge. But it seemed odd..

It was like.. like it wasn't getting any air in. Suffocating. Then I wondered.. if I'd removed the tape I'd put over the air-filer intake as I made a small cut so I could mount the ESC straighter. The answer was no I hadn't.

https://i.imgur.com/HIeY1PK.jpg

remember you jumped a car so ECU needs time to re-learn.
drive for few days then push it.

BTW, how hard did you tighten your clamp?

Haha, so how does it feel now?

In case anyone is interested, I'm selling my PROcede controller.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131826

Anyone ever tried openning apart the snail to change out the propeller for a lighter one?

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I'm after a new electric motor with or without the compressor.

I've had the system for a few years. Last year, the motor spun in the housing and twisted the cables. Same as this post from someone else. I followed the recommendation and applied sealant to fix this problem.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=1095

The cable insulation must have been damaged. Many months later, the compressor would work intermittently. I checked the connections and found one cable loose at the motor. I opened the motor and found one cable almost burnt out with some burn marks on the inside of the motor case.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/X4sKFT6iPRgzAfd76
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wiP2GhY6sSv5p1pe7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/X4sKFT6iPRgzAfd76
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wiP2GhY6sSv5p1pe7



I disassembled the compressor. Same as this post from someone else.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=1100

I measured the unit in case it helps someone point me to a replacement.

It runs on 28V, I think it is 4000W

Motor diameter 55mm, Length 67mm, Shaft diameter 8mm. Shaft length 39mm. (The shaft is modified and tapped)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Dj7XhH2mf2HdDFMWA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Dj7XhH2mf2HdDFMWA
https://youtu.be/iKKtIC5hyC0

Does anyone have an extra throttle switch pedal they don't need im looking to buy one

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@keen as @BlOody_BoOger

I might have some extra parts available to sell for the both of you but I won't know till this weekend. Will post more later.

Sorry it's probably been answered but there's 85 pages, just too much to read.
What are the dyno numbers for the electric supercharger with header and e85?
And if one was to buy one now, where is it possible to get the oft tunes? They are no longer available on the website

Cool man yea message me

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On e85 you make roughly around 230whp and 215wtq. I'm able to pull away on 350z and wrx's on full bolt ons. My buddies 370z barely walked me on a 60mph pull 4th gr, we were neck and neck untill I hit 6th gear then he started pulling away

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Those are exactly my numbers on the dyno (hot day) with a very similar setup so.. confirmed and co-signed.

Have some spare parts but not exactly these things. Sorry guys.

Dang all good thanks

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What parts do you have exactly?

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Post is here about my intent to mod a Phantom v1.5 to be lithium powered, if anyone has similar interest or advice on it:
LINK to other thread

Are you planning on jumping up to 7s or 8s? I can't really see there being any increase in performance if you stick with the 6s setup we are currently using.

Mine is a v1.5 version, not sure what you're currently running?
Sounds like some much later spec lithium kits are circulating amongst you USA guys.

Are you turning to the dark side, dr?

I thought about it at one point lol but after everything I read, it's too much electrical work and I don't mess with electrical work 😂

FYI, The TORQAMP Kickstarter campaign will be online the 17th of September.
Looks pretty promising. Looks super easy to install and slightly more efficient then phantom v2.

That one, I'll keep an eye on.

$3400....lolol

I believe they said kickstarter price is 15% off. Also includes the power pack so not dropping $200+ on extra batteries like the phantom and is universal so could swap it to any other car. Should make 6-2psi on our engines so slightly more than the phantom at roughly the same cost overall. Definitely pretty interesting, was considering it before i went real FI but they still send me the email updates. Almost thought about testing a twin charged setup with it.

For $3200, it's a complete package. You don't need any support mods like other force induction kits. And on e85, I'm going to assume it's going to push similar numbers to the phantom. On force induction kits, on e85 your already pushing the engines limits or you need to build it. This kit on e85 is perfect and don't ever have to worry about blowing your internals. I'll be eyeing this kit.

Price wise a used greddy or sbd kit might work for you. Dont go for 300whp and you'll be as reliable as you would be with this kit

True but where I live, there is an abundance of e85 stations. I want to stay on e85 for more powa! And no knock and cooler Temps. The brz only weighs 2400lbs so the numbers on e85 is plenty for me

Just tune for lower boost. Electric superchargers dont make sense yet. Boost curve isn't linear and is backward.

Yes they most certainly do make sense. I've had the Phantom for over 5 years now and I wouldn't want to drive the car without it. It gives you an instant torque boost just when you need it. (Right in the torque dip.)

Try it, you'll like it.

Damnit, that's right, they're not available anymore.

WHY?