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Here's lil update.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7664c439b6.jpg My friend is making new parts for 86/BRZ... which I'm interested to see how it turns out. Tonight, we just measure to double make sure before making prototype steel ver... which I'll be testing out for him to give some feedback. |
86EXPO is successfully over, so thought to update here on what I'm currently doing w my car.
Local friend is making parts for Subie and needed my BRZ, so have been going tonhis shop measuring. Sunday, he finally got the prototype and wanted me to test em out, so he have installed it and currently on test mode. Can't show you what it is, but here's a hint. It replace this part. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0329755fea.jpg Another hint is, this part doesn't go against MCB, but it work with MCB. So far on my feedback, it's good and if anyone is wants great brake feedback, I highly recommended! |
After testing over 6 months in variety weather conditions (from +100 degree sunny day to -5 degrees in the snowstorm), different brake pads (daily pads & autox/track pads), with & without Master Cylinder brace and of course, daily driving and racing, I can finally show you what I’ve added to my mod list.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...40a0dfa8f3.jpg Pedal Support bracket by ITS. It's one of top fav mod I've done to my car! Brake feel is more precise and direct. Using along with MC brace, I don't think I get ANY wall flex. Q. What’s pedal support bracket? A. Simple answer to this is, it reduces brake pedal flex caused by fire wall on our car. Q. Isn’t MC brace do the same thing? A. Pedal support bracket and MC brace work together to get more bite from brake. This bracket is supporting the brake and clutch pedals, so if you have upgraded clutch you can get more precise clutch work. Q. Can I still have MC brace and have this equipped? A. Yes you can equip both. I actually recommend equipping BOTH. Q. Why recommend equipping both? A. I don’t have measure thingy to prove this other than my daily and autox experiences, so take this answer as a grain of salt. Pedal support bracket helps initial braking feel. Sounds crazy when I say, installing this, initial braking “feel” have improves by one brake pad upgrade. Feel is more direct than only having MC brace. Q. Is it hard to install? How long does it take to install? A. No, not too hard. It’s easy installation, so most of you who never have modded your car can do this. Just only problem is due to where brake/clutch pedals are, you gotta be in awkward position for 10~20mins. Total time to install this is less than an hour. Hope that answer some of the questions you might have |
Here’s an update on what happened on me this summer.
Few of Kics lugnuts cover thingy (don’t know what those are called) were cracking, so I’ve replaced it with Muteki lugnuts... but that’s where it went to hell. Some how it ceased on me in a month, result this happened. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c58cf059bb.jpg Yes, I’ve busted the studs... it’s not stock studs. Those are ARP extended studs. After several hundred dollar later, got all studs replaced and got different lugnuts. (Gorilla Forged Steel open ended) Right after studs and lugnuts were fixed, my front right (passenger) brake caliper ceased on me, so thought to change things up by changing to Subaru 4 pistons calipers. I wouldn’t call it performance upgrade, but it’s a visual upgrade. Thanks to KNS Brakes for all the support and info. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...337f460337.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1cb7e2d055.jpg It fit Enkei Raijin (18x8 +35) without an issue, of course. Maybe look small? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2b4beb4681.jpg If you’re wondering, yes it’s easy to change it to Subaru 4 piston calipers. They used stock rotors, so all you need is calipers, caliper stuffs (pins, covers & so on) & pads. Calipers bolt on directly, so no cuts or weld anything. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8e710661fe.jpg If looks pretty nice... I think https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...080689ad3c.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3b596cf2ee.jpg As for brake pedal feel, there aren’t much difference than stock. I read somewhere in the forum that these calipers are a bit lighter than stock, but nothing major weight shaving. This is why I said “visual” upgrade, instead of “performance” upgrade. With that problem fixed, another problem came along. I do use stock wheels for winter tires... but I’ve read that stock wheels doesn’t fit with these calipers, so I’ve bought different wheels. Went with Enkei again, I just love Enkei. Big thanks to @OAKOS Automotive for good deal again. I highly recommend them to anyone. I've bought from them so many times. PLUS my wife and my wife's sister bought from them, cuz they had a great deal. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f74ff6ad75.jpg Got myself Enkei VR5 in 17x8 +45. I wish they made it in +35 or +32 offset, but o’well still looks nice. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...15984e9d16.jpg Had lil fun putting stickers on. But in the end, I took it off. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c175e1d9d3.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...31d2b8643e.jpg I got it matte black & I think it looks nice. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...803f8b2f7c.jpg It does clear the calipers without an issue. Prob have 1”~2” in space. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ebefdc9139.jpg |
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Do you believe the Mutekis were just an isolated incident, or is this more common? |
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My wife is using Muteki lugnuts and no issue for... 7 months now. Conclusion, it’s not common issue. Just mix of unlucky shit happen to me. |
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3bdea920a8.jpg
Got my car back from body shop. If you’re wondering why my car was in the shop, I got rear ended few weeks back. Now it’s back & it’s nice to drive my car again. |
Here’s a quick update on my car. While I was searching around Japanese 86/BRZ group member sites for some ideas, I came across this mod.
Not sure anyone felt unknown heavy steering while autox, track &/or drift with counter steering. Well, kouki 86/BRZ have improve that part by updating their EPS. Good news to zenki 86/BRZ owner is that, you can swap out with kouki EPS. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...95c08d3407.jpg Zenki model should have big “G” on it. Kouki model should have “1”... then why is other one have “3” on it? When I google search that part number it said it’s for ‘18 BRZ STI model. Which I’m assuming it’s for tS model (in US, BRZ tS came as ‘18 model). tS or kouki model EPS price was almost same on eBay (+-$5 difference). So thought to test it out if tS model EPS works on zenki model. Answer that question is, yes, it does work. Work itself took about 30mins. Only 3 bolts, 2 screws & 1 nut to get it off, so why took 30mins? EPS is in very awkward area (behind trunk release & light adjusting button), so had to go through several wires with twisting my arm & hand to get those bolts off. If you careful and take your time, it’s not that hard. No, I’m not planning to make DIY, cuz it’s easy mod. Test drove after installation and yes, there’s a difference in the steering feel. It’s a lot lighter. I prefer zenki power steering weight, but kouki power steering isn’t bad either. Here’s a vid (if you understand Japanese) https://youtu.be/MTJB5pfhgsE |
2 things I love your car for the combo of daily track ish and also how the heck have I not seen you running around I’ve been in Utah 3 years now lol
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Yeah, I want to keep the fundament of this car as is, but add my taste to it. Haha not sure what part of Utah you live? I work downtown, but rarely take freeway. That might be the reason why you don’t see me. I try to wave everyone who wave at me... except in the morning. My mind is somewhere else (half asleep), so don’t get offended if I didn’t. lol |
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Well, if you’re near downtown or Midvale and see me, wave. We’re black sheep of Toyota/Subaru, so most Toyota/Subaru owners don’t wave back lol |
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I've heard that shop but never been there. I usually goes to my wife's uncle shop. I've been using them way before meeting my wife and they have been good. |
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Due to covid-19, have been stuck at home working. Trying not to loose my mind by buy car parts. Plus a lot of things are going to happen this summer... but for now, I'll post what I did last few days.
Huge, but very light package have came. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...img_1044-1.jpg It's a rear lip! Saw one member had em on the car and got a bit jealous, so bought it lol https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1045.jpg Now the biggest issue w this rear lip is, it's made for kouki rear bumper and not zenki rear bumper. Me thinking "Meh, there are very minor difference between Kouki & Zenki, so prob fit with few tweek" *Photo by trueno86power* https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9aa80a17_k.jpg Well let me say this, I was wrong... VERY WRONG. only thing that fit was 2 clips on each side . That's it! Technically there were suppose to be 3 clips each side for zenki, but this lip only have 2 holes each side. From exhaust spot to all the way to the center, nothing fits. It came w like 5~6 screws to screw em on to the bumper, but it wouldn't get near the bumper to screw em on. Even by the reverse light. In the pic, center part looks fit, but the "V" section is too shallow and won't fit plus fake fin design is different as well. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1047.jpg Result is, had to cut em out to make it fit. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1048.jpg This is pre-test fit to see if it work. It fit... but issue still is in the center section. Center section isn't secured at all. It's been 3M double sided tape. When I go more than 25mph, that 3M take will prob pop off, so had to think of alternate option. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1049.jpg https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1051.jpg https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1053.jpg Alternate option I came up is to put bolts plus 3M double sided tape to hold em together. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1080.jpg Had to make sure lip would fit tightly to the bumper and bolt came out very close to the reverse light section, so I had to take it off to get the wash and nut tighten. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1083.jpg https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1085.jpg But as you can see, reverse lights still fit w those bolts. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1086.jpg https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1087.jpg lip is very close to the bumper. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1088.jpg https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1089.jpg Now, I wouldn't recommend this to whoever have zenki bumper. If you have kouki bumper and do like the rear lip, recommend it, cuz it looks freaking nice. Oh, if you're wondering why I taken off the taillights, because I had to take off the bumper and when I put the bumper back, it's best to have the taillights off... is a joke. I have new taillights coming on Monday, so thought to take it off and I just need to install em instead of taking it off and so forth. & yes, I did buy new taillight gasket as well. |
Damn it really wasn't an easy fit but you did a great job on it !
Sorry again for make you spend haha |
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Don’t worry bout it. It’s not like I bought legit TRD part & cutting it lol Keep buying all the cool parts to give me & other members some ideas to put it in our cars! |
Today another package came for me~
https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1172.jpg Got Depo taillights https://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.ne...6tl-oeb(2).jpg Yes, a lot of you are thinking "Bruh, it's a same taillights as stock. Mind as well break stock ones open and paint em black!" or "Why keep em stock design?" There 2 major reason for that. 1. I like the stock design, but doesn't like chrome part. Stock headlights are black, why can't taillights can be black stock. 2. I run Diode Dynamics Tail-as-Turn. If I get other taillights, Tail-as-Turn work work. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1173.jpg I also bought Ninja Gaskets kit as well. Gasket was pretty thick and nice quality. It came w glue and even Laffy Taffy. Those are always plus for gearheads lol Installation was pretty easy. Nothing complicated, just pop off the taillights, move all the wires and bulbs, put the glue and gaskets, pop em back in and that's it. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1174.jpg You can see before and after pics Rear: Before https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1049.jpg After https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1175.jpg Rear angle: Before https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1052.jpg After https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1176.jpg I should be getting more packages middle of this week. That'll be a bit more of work, so hopefully I can report back on the weekend or early next week. |
Looks good. I’ve been happy with my Depo taillights. Tried to open the stock ones for painting, but failed!
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Yeah... that's what I'm reading and hearing from members who crack the taillights to get it painted. That's why I bought these instead of painting em. |
Looks good Ichi!
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This came on Wednesday
https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1214.jpg & this came on yesterday https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5.jpg?w=357&h= I had several other things I need to install along w these. First box is Cusco Touring-A struts. I was looking into Koni Yellow for SCCA SSC class, but I didn’t want to build my car around SSC. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5.jpg?w=357&h= Touring-A was equipped with Eibach Pro-Kit and Verus Engineering top hats. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1216.jpg Here’s how it looks front https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1217.jpg Rear... I had to do lil bit more work, cuz I was going to install struts along with Subaru 2 piston calipers w KNS bracket & SPC LCA. So Wednesday it ended with just installing the fronts. Thursday, going through all the installation without any issues. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...8.jpg?w=740&h= Visually this is looking good... https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...3.jpg?w=740&h= But I’m a retard and I’ve put calipers wrong side. How I didn’t think of it til start bleeding them. I’ve noticed that bleeder is on the bottom. So I say fuck it and done for Thursday. Today, switch the calipers and installed the Viofo A129 Pro Duo. Reason I got dash cam is, recently I got front bumper hit and they just drove off. Sadly I was at Target shopping and didn’t notice that paint crack and corner clip snapped til few days later. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...5/img_1262.jpg A129 is bang for buck. Of course, it’s not compact like BlackVue or top quality as Thinkware, but this is def up there. It’s compact enough, that it’ll hide behind the mirror too. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1400&h= Rear cam could be a bit smaller. Especially I have 3rd brake light on the top, so I had to put on the side. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1400&h= I had to hardwire, so park mode work. I’ll be testing em out tonight to see how it work. |
The taillights are a very subtle change but definitely look better than stock. I'm not a chrome fan either, but I don't want to swap lights until I've got a front and rear set that look good together. In your case already having black headlights it's a much easier swap.
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After cleaning up the garage from upgrading suspension & calipers, I forgot to install these parts. I’ll be installing Perrin part prob Monday or Tuesday. But first, I need to get alignment done.
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I love the depo taillights. I want them pretty bad because I love the stock look but also hate the chrome. I'm not a fan of the turn signals or strange LED design of other aftermarket tail lights.
What is in the Perrin box?! |
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I assume it's something suspension related since you mentioned an alignment? |
Hey, Ichi. I was just thinking, looking at your rear camera, do you think you could figure out a way to mount it in that center hole of where the original 3rd brake light used to be? You'll still get your centered view out the rear, and it won't be as much of a rear view blockage as the brake light spaceship used to be.
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What about going under the headliner and then down one of the sidesfrom there? I know that's where the curtain airbags come to an end, but could you still access the area under that shelf from there to run wire? I definitely get what you're saying, though, it makes for a more complicated job no matter how you go.
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Package came Wednesday, but due to work I wasn't able to install some of em til now.
https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...8.jpg?w=700&h= These are parts I have... but sadly, I cannot install 2 of em, due to still waiting for more parts to come in THEN I can install em. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...6.jpg?w=700&h= First in the list, I installed was Beat-sonic shark fin. I had Beat-sonic Blaid antenna aka Zaku, but wanted to change thing around. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...6.jpg?w=700&h= Installation wasn't THAT hard. Hardest part was to make sure they're all straight. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...3.jpg?w=700&h= |
I thought, I've posted this... but I was wrong. Back in mid Jan, I got my new shift knob from Raceseng. Raceseng do make good parts plus and they support 86/BRZ from the beginning, so I want to support their business much as I can.
As always, they pack their goods nicely. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= They have new shift knob called Stratose. They have 3 different options, alcantara, perforated leather and solid leather. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0.jpg?w=700&h= I got with solid leather. Reason why I went to leather is, I love the feeling of leather when I'm driving. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= It have nice weight compared to stock one. Built and leather quality is def nice. Design... could of been lil bit more better. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= Here are before and after pics Before: https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= After: https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= It's kinda hard to see it, but Stratose raise the shift knob position fraction higher, as you can see from this pic https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= Now, lets get down to the real talk here. Price: Raceseng Stratose cost $180~$190, depends on material you go with. That price tag is more than TRD/STI shift knob ($170 or so). There are other universal leather shift knobs that's cheaper. Quality: Stratose quality is superb, good weight on it... but better? Questionable. Stratose leather quality is good, but it's a bit thin for my liking. This sounds a bit horrible to say, but it feels like leather was painted on. Yes, I know, you can't "paint" the leather. It's that thin leather. Not sure you know this feeling, but there's no softness from leather when you squeeze the shift knob. From OEM shift knob, it have that feel and even TRD/STI shift knob have that. Design: This vary, but raceseng make cool looking shift knob. My wife have Sphereology on her WRX and do love the design. It fits wife's hand and even my hand nicely. Stratose? Hm... can't same the same. Conclusion: Is it good? Yes. Is it worth the price? For me, no. I hope they update and make better ones. When it does, I'll buy it again. |
Now for some performance update.
https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= Got myself a Perrin steering rack lockdown. There have been good amount of positive reviews without the years. Only complain I've heard is NVH. I haven't able to drive too long to test this out. I'm hoping to find out this summer. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= Installation wasn't too hard. Just need to uninstall one of the under cover to see the steering rack. Hardest part was breaking the steering rack bolts loose. In the installation, they claim you just need 65ft/tq to tighten those 2 bolts... but I swear it was more than 65ft/tq, it was harder to loosen. But whatever, I'm no engineer. I'll do what the instruction tells me to do. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr....jpg?w=1000&h= |
Random Ideas
After installing rear lip for my car... one thing kinda bugs me. How's the bottom flow? I'm pretty sure it's not good having aftermarket exhaust as is, adding lip ads more drag. Ideally, you want rear diffuser (like Verus Engineering), but having the lip doesn't help. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/08...g?v=1461176266 So next option is make your own... Yay for making more custom parts IDK what I'm doing :bellyroll: Materials Carbon Fiber: Using carbon fiber would be cool. It's lightweight, strong and bling factor def is there. BUT let's be real here, can I afford that huge sheet of CF? Yes, but is it worth it? Prob not. Fiberglass: I can try to mold something to fit nicely... but using fiberglass under there is just asking to get broken into pieces. Metal: Stainless Steel? Pretty heavy. Steel? It rust. Aluminum? Need decently thick to not bend. Out of all those options, best one I can think is aluminum (5052-H32). Now, what would be the best thickness? Gotta do a bit more research... |
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Kinda why they didn't run a smooth bottom to begin with. Going to have to notch the panel to clear the active suspension parts. At ludicrous speed there's going to be a lot of air load and deformation potential behind the suspension arms. If you bend a panel to clear around when fully unloaded, it's always going to be in the air stream even when squatted down. Eh. You do you ;) edit: I'm out of the industry for a number of years, so not up on the latest alloy specs. Find samples you can whack with an ice axe to see what they do and go from there. |
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