that's a standard price, AMSOIL ain't cheap.

The problem was with Mobil 1 5W-30; it sheared to 5W-20 in too little time. Now, Mobil 1 5W-30 High Mileage was a better oil, but I simply switched to Mobil 1 5W-30 TDT and Rotella T6 in my EJ.

Mobil 1 TDT comes in a 5w30?

My car is track only in the hot state of texas. How would you guys feel about 0-30 for winter and 5-40 for track during the summer? Ams oil of course.

Ah, 5W-40? Either way, better than using a thin ass 5W-30 in that engine. I believe T6 is also 5W-40.

I am using Mobil 1 TDT in most of my cars but thinking of switching to T6. Walmart pricing for the win!

YES. $20 for 1gal? Excellent...

I get it for about $8/qt as a preferred customer. Otherwise it's about $10/qt. They ship from warehouses, and for me, the Orlando warehouse is pretty much a next day for ground shipping.

Track only and Texas... what you need are an oil pressure and temp gauge. Then you will know exactly what you need. Stop guessing, get data.

I've been using Mobil 1 for years and never had blacking or coffee looking problems in even high mileage cars, but I change my oil in all cars no longer than 3K miles. I have a wife and 2 kids who beat their cars and in the heat out here it's the least I can do. I am listening to everyone on this though because it seeems to be a consensus that Subaru boxers and Mobil 1 oil don't like each other...curious though because Porsche uses M1 as their preferred oil. Regardless I'm not hear to argue.

Has anyone looked at Eneos Sustina? I used their stuff in Japan and a lot of you look for specs and info and they place it all out there...even the much talked about Zinc chatter and they don't add sulphur. Most of their dealers are in Cali and they are Toyota and 1 Subaru dealer...that's a good sign to me.

My 2 cents...I will say the regular Full Synthetic Eneos is about $54 a case...Sustina is going to be on par for price with Ams oil and others I suspect. I only know Yen price.

http://www.sustina.us/superior-cleaning-power.php
http://www.sustina.us/ultimate-fuel-efficiency.php
http://www.sustina.us/dealer-locator.php

I went to Sebring this weekend and after 3 20 minute sessions (45-60 minute cool downs between), I gridded for session 4. I was on the grid with the AC on (yeah... I know) four ~10 minutes. When I went to roll out on track noticed the CEL on, the car wouldn't rev hardly at all, 1200rpm or so. Restarted car after a few minutes, would go in limp mode, 4500rpm. Water temps were fine. My bluetooth ODB reader was wigging out and wouldn't connect either (not a car problem, it wouldnt read a 10 year old Tahoe either that day).

My theory is an oil temp problem. After a ~30 minute cooldown, I was able to drive home and the CEL cleared itself after driving for 20 minutes then cycling the ignition.

Haven't read this whole thread but my Googling has come up empty. No one else has had any limp mode issues, other than people tuning the ECU (obviously, self-induced)

Thinking I'm going to need to switch to a 5w-30 as 100F ambient isn't uncommon here. Now to figure out which oil.

Figure out which oil... sure but you figure out what the CEL was first!

Also, what were your oil temps?

I couldnt get a reader to it in time and the car doesnt have oil temps readily available :/

I tried to read it with my bluetooth ODB reader and it wouldnt connect to my phone (but that was the phone, not the car, I couldnt connect to a 10 year old Tahoe either).

Only code it was throwing was P1235 and that comes back to Air intake solenoid on a Forester but that's all I can find. Cleared the code (after the light disappeared on its own) at an Autozone and waiting to see if it comes back. And I have not modified the intake system in anyway (or any drivetrain modification for that matter)

Running only the best: Motul 300V 5W-30. :)

You know I hear that a lot... but really, when Redline is $10 or so a quart (that's what I sell it for) and lesser synthetics are about $7 and up, how much more are we talking? $30, maybe? For the oil that protects your engine????? Seems like a no-brainer to me. Considering all these threads about "what oil should I run", etc. I find it shocking how unimportant it all becomes over a few bucks. An engine is a lot more than the money you spend on a quality (a real quality) oil.

This is fine Toyota normally recommends two options the 0W-20 or the 5W-30 so you should be fine with 5W-30.

As a tech for Toyota they/we will never test the type of oil you place in your car but keep in mind with the FRS you get free maintenance for 30k miles so talk to your dealership im sure they will help you. you may just need to pay a little money for different oil.

I plan on using GC 0W-30.

That's exactly what the sales rep told me, when I picked up my car..

This is what i will use in my FRS. This is not cheap oil but it makes your car run great. we sale this at my dealership.

No that is not True the maintenance program is call scion boost program and im sorry i meant 25k miles not 30k miles

• Normal factory-recommended maintenance services[3] up to 2 years or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first
• Complimentary 24-Hour Roadside Assistance[4] for up to 2 years[5] from the date of purchase
• Maintenance performed by trained technicians who know your vehicle the best, using Genuine Scion Parts
• Service reminders mailed to you prior to your next scheduled service

I have some 0w-30 Motul 8100 X-Lite I'm switching to.

I spoke about Eneos oil a few threads up. I lived in Japan for 11 years and used it alot. Do you all sell Eneos Sustina 0W-20??? and will you ship to Arizona? i will pay the price. What dealership are you at because Eneos website only shows a select few who sell this stuff?

I will have to find prices for you. My dealership is Claremont Toyota

PM to remind me tomorrow

:word:

got it i will let you know ASAP

any one using 5w-40?

Manual say 0w-20 but can I use Mobile 1 synth 5w30 for daily commuting and cruising on freeway around socal area? The reason is costco always have this oil at best deal ! :)

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr1qYLoKxXE"]Toyota 0W-20 Oil - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53sTYcpCzB8"]-34 2011 0W-20 0W-30 0W-40 ZIC Castrol Ravenol Petro-canada Mobil1 Teboil - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VES8xzHgYM"]Minoru Yamashita of Toyota discusses plans to use 0W-20 to improve fuel economy - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQgpyU_0rPQ"]ENEOS SUSTINA PREMIUM OIL Part 2 of 2 - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JudB_abckRA"]ENEOS SUSTINA PREMIUM OIL Part 1 of 2 - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DG002mL7q1A"]Toyota Genuine Synthetic Motor Oil - YouTube[/ame]

and this is why i will stay with 0W-20 using Eneos oil

Don't worry about voiding your warranty; unless you say something they won't find out. You can quote me on that :thumbsup:.

I went with 0w-30 aimsoil signature.

So did I :thumbsup: Also went with Ran Up to put in there with it. Moto-P sold me on it. Its awesome stuff, but not cheap. For 11 more ft lbs more tq Im game though.

Motul 8100 0W-20 or 0W-30 for street cars

Motul 300V 0W-20 and 5W-30 for track cars

Hit me up if you guys can't get it local I can ship it.

on a dd/track car... amsoil or motul? 0w-30?

Tough call IMO. There isn't any/much data to determine what a good viscosity to use at the track is. If you're looking at 0W-20, either would be good choices at may produce similar results and have similar levels of protection.

If you're considering 0W-30, I would definitely choose the Amsoil over the Motul if you have stock internals. Motul's 0W-30 is a high HTHS and high kinematic viscosity oil and will nearly function like a 40 weight.

OTOH, Amsoil SSO 0W-20 and Motul Eco-lite 0W-20 have the same kinematic viscosity (Motul doesn't list HTHS on Eco-lite). The Amsoil has a higher TBN so it's probably safer to run a bit longer, but the Eco-lite's ester's probably provide a bit of anti-wear (although it's thought that Amsoil 0W-20 uses ester's, but it's not listed on the bottle).

I would probably pick a 0W-20 and do a couple of used oil analyses and decide from there. Or you could just go all out and use a race oil like Amsoil Dominator 5W-20 or Motul 300V 0W-20. For the track, I would pick higher levels of anti-wear additives and friction modifiers over a higher viscosity any day. You would just need to do a uoa if you intend to run either oil past 3,750 miles, or seek advice from directly from Amsoil and Motul.

-Dennis

what oil wt/brand is from factory? im due for my first oil in june in the dealer and im not really digging of going and get that done..i been changing my own oil for a long time now:thumbup:

is it worth it going to the dealer and get an oil change ? i assume its free and part of the buying the car..:iono:

what oil brand/WT do you recommend for daily driving and yet have fun opening it it at the track:burnrubber:

I just used Mobil 1: Advanced Fuel Synthetic 0W-20 today.

But will be switching to Amsoil or Motul in the future.

I switched to AMSoil for all of my cars, which are all imports/domestics!?

Eneos and some other overseas brands/specs were going to be too much of a pain in the ass to obtain. Mobil 1 doesn't seem to be a wise choice for Scoobies.

Just turned 4600 miles on my FR-S...Drove it off the lot 31 May '12.

I know...whoopty shit!

Stay Calm and Drift On!

Internet hype based on knucklehead turbo owners that modify their WRX's, don't check the oil, run the wrong viscosity for their application, and end up with engine failure. No oil can fix the nut behind the wheel!

-Dennis

I had to wonder about this because I have used Mobil 1 a long time including most of my years in Japan until I discovered eneos. I dd make a point awhile back that Porsche uses it in their engines as a factory oil and it's a boxer motor as well!

Centreal Jersey huh...Me too...Toms River, Whiting, Beachwood, LBI...Now Arizona.

I've used the Porsche approved Mobil1 0W-40 in my Forester turbo with good used oil analysis results. I spend a lot of time in the spring, summer, and fall (sometimes winter) driving on the beach at Island Beach State Park. :happy0180: That area kinda got wiped out after Sandy but hopefully they'll be back soon.

-Dennis