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I'm hoping to use the signals before the oem amp and remove that amp entirely. If those signals don't work with my amp I'll use the speaker level signals.
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Let me know. Thanks.
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Not yet, I'm waiting to run the power cable as you did. I think instead of removing the front speaker amp as I mentioned in that post I'm just going to add the subwoofer using a 2ch amp that I had. The downside of this is that I can't cut the low frequencies out of the front door speakers, so I might have to get a 4ch amp at some point, but I think just adding the sub will make a huge difference. So this way, I will just use the left channel + and - signals and the remote signal from that connector.
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Here is my current setup. It took me about 1.5 hrs on Thursday evening to route the power cable through the firewall and car. On Friday afternoon, I took about 1 hr and 45 mins to finish the rest of the setup. However I am not done yet, I rushed it because I had dinner plans and a soccer game later that evening. I would work on it now, but it's too damn hot in Houston,TX right now. My next step is to clean it up and make it look pretty.
The current setup is; -760 watts max Sony xploid amp -10" Infinity sub dual voice coil, (4 or 2 ohm, I forgot) - 500 watt rms / 1000 max -ported sub enclosure -low pass filter I am using the left / right speaker signal and remote on signal coming into the factory amp. My future plans are similar to spacewilly's idea. Get a space and power efficient 4 CH Amp, a smaller subwoofer and enclosure, run the door speaker off 2 ch's, and the sub from 2 ch bridged into one. My current sub and enclosure is too damn loud, it rattles the whole car and the bass is too much.. lol. I didn't know it was going to be like this, I have the amp about 1/4 way turned on the gain, and the bass bumps super hard... anyways it'll do for now. INFINITY 10" SUB + SONY AMP Attachment 10390 Attachment 10391 LOW PASS FILTER Attachment 10392 CABLE RAN UNDERNEATH REAR PASSENGER SEAT Attachment 10393 CABLE RAN THROUGH FIREWALL FRONT PASSENGER FOOTWELL Attachment 10394 CABLE RAN THROUGH FIREWALL - EXISTING GROMMET FOUND REAR LEFT OF BATTERY Attachment 10395 |
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sweeeT ill throw a meter on there today to confirm the toyota amp turn on!
Verified today that is the amp turn on for toyota or umm scion I mean. |
Spaceywilly,
Do you know what fuse is linked to that amp in the trunk? Thanks. Jeff |
I will take a look later, looking at the wiring diagrams it looks like a 15A fuse labelled (possibly) ANP in the Instrument panel J/B assembly. I think it's in the bottom right of the fuse box inside the car.
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If you are going to add a sub.. just use the RCA outs. No point in giving up sound quality and running a line out converter or tapping into those little front door speaker wires, when even the stock base model HU gives you sub RCA outputs.
That being said, finding a harness for a facroty sub could make running a remote amp wire a little easier. |
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I still wonder how they are going to be hooking up the OEM sub that's listed in the BRZ's accessories catalog without the RCA outs. |
I bought a all in one 8" sub/amp 600 watt 300 watt RMS combo just for a little extra boom in my BRZ limited. I used the passenger side rear speaker to draw the RCA signal i needed for the amp. Works great. sounds good. not to loud as to wake the neighbors, but sounds good for anyone in the car or near the car.
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Hey Nate, can you post pictures, name/brand of the sub/amp combo? I am trying find something smaller and not as loud as my current setup. As you can see in the above post, the subwoofer alone almost takes up half the trunk space. Thanks. |
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