Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Cosmetic Maintenance (Wash, Wax, Detailing, Body Repairs) (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=42)
-   -   Question on waxing (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87051)

babydriver 04-22-2015 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vividracing (Post 2220289)
If you use a spray wax, it won't last anywhere near as long as a liquid wax. Spray waxes are good for extending the life of an already waxed car, but it's not good in the long run because the base layer of wax breaks down, and the spray wax won't be as effective. You could spray wax it once a week or every other week after it's washed but you'll have to re-apply it.

Or you can use a liquid wax and not have to re-apply it for 2-3 months, depending on which you use. The benefit is more significant because liquid waxes have better ingredients because some of those ingredients aren't able to be put into a solution to be sprayed.

I generally follow this time table for detailing:
CLAY - every 6 months
POLISH - every 3 months, especially after clay
SEALANT - every 1-2 months, especially after clay/polish
PURE CARNAUBA - whenever, especially after clay/polish/sealant, and before car shows.

If you use a clay bar, you have to use a sealant. You don't have to use a polish or carnauba, they're more optional but finishes the look.

Polishes use abrasives to fix micro scratches and swirl marks and are mostly used for that purpose, and aren't exactly best for regular use compared to sealant/carnauba.

If you're lazy and just want the basic wax...
Sealants last longer but don't look as bright.
Carnauba doesn't last as long but looks really good.

A car wash offering wax generally uses a sealant/carnauba mix but don't have the same full properties of either type.

-RyanG

If I use a product like Griot's wax remover (which does an admirable job of removing the wax) does this also remove any sealant beneath the wax? What is needed to remove sealant, short of claying?

vividracing 04-22-2015 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babydriver (Post 2222510)
If I use a product like Griot's wax remover (which does an admirable job of removing the wax) does this also remove any sealant beneath the wax? What is needed to remove sealant, short of claying?

Sealant is like a wax, it's synthetic and makes a "shell" on the clear coat. I would believe a wax remover would also remove the sealant. Clay bar with or without sealant already on the car doesn't matter, the clay will remove contaminants from either.

I hear that using dish soap does the same thing too, but it's harsher on your paint and you definitely need to reseal it and don't do it in the sun or the soap will burn your clear coat.

If you remove the sealant, your clear coat is exposed with no protection.

Quote:

Originally Posted by billyk (Post 2222331)
I'll pile on here, since I have some recent threads/posts on this subject.

I'll always defer to the detailers here who have excellent insight into how to rejuvenate and protect finishes.

But, for more casual owners like me, I can't say enough about the Turtle Wax Ice Liquid Wax and Spray Wax. I've used these exclusively on my FR-S and I am amazed by the results and the sheer lack of time it takes to make and keep my FR-S looking great. Prices for Ice products are low as well.

The Ice Liquid Wax will last at least 3 months on it's own. I base this on the fact that my finish looked almost like the day I waxed it after about 2 months - Winter months. Spray wax stays perfect for more than a month, in my experience. So, there's plenty of overlap here. Use the liquid, then the spray once a month or so.

Both go on/come off easy, with the Spray being ridiculously easy and fast to use. I can spay wax my FR-S in 30 minutes - including all trim and windows - which makes it a no-brainer to do after a wash. The Ice products make it so that I actually wax my car on a regular basis now. It's just too easy and the results are awesome.

Just wait til you try a brand that's actually good :P Turtle Wax is OK but there are definitely better brands in my opinion. I've used them all in my experience and I love Meguiars #21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0, and my Carnauba is Mothers Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax. I have a polish but I'm not impressed with it, I'm going to get something that cuts just a bit more. Something from Meguiars professional series. I live near a big auto paint store that has almost all their professional products, like this: http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...g-polish-32oz/ in particular the #205 finishing polish, I'll try that.

-RyanG

vividracing 04-22-2015 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atticus808 (Post 2221959)
oooooooh crap. we are both ocd:(

OCD with my car, yes I got a problem! It's a good problem though haha.

:bonk:

-RyanG

babydriver 04-22-2015 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vividracing (Post 2222610)
Sealant is like a wax, it's synthetic and makes a "shell" on the clear coat. I would believe a wax remover would also remove the sealant. Clay bar with or without sealant already on the car doesn't matter, the clay will remove contaminants from either.

I hear that using dish soap does the same thing too, but it's harsher on your paint and you definitely need to reseal it and don't do it in the sun or the soap will burn your clear coat.

If you remove the sealant, your clear coat is exposed with no protection.

-RyanG

Thanks, Ryan! I am considering switching from one sealant brand to another and wanted to remove the old sealant first. You make an excellent point about not leaving the clearcoat unsealed! :D


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