I think you should see something very low at idle and then the pressure should rise about 10psi per 1000rpm. Is that about what you see? I think the oil gallery is considered the best location for the pressure sender as it gives your reading right where the bearings are at. Also, I had all kinds of fitment issues with that pod as well. Had to hack and grind on it to make it fit. It is a good concept but it's executed very poorly I think. I got it to work and am ok with it now, much like you.

I am indeed seeing that from what I can make out on the fluctuating gauge. I have read that as well, that the gallery plug is the best place to measure from due to its location relative to the bearings. However, I am wondering if we can read from a sandwich plate and just take into consideration the difference in pressure between the locations. So add Xpsi to whatever the readings are, and that is *roughly* what is at the bearings. I just want a more stable reading so I can actually read the damn thing.

Ahhh, it sounds like you might have had more fitment issues than I did. Mine wasn't too too bad. I did consider dremeling the steering wheel a bit to add clearance before I thought about sticking the washers in there. Glad to hear you made it work though.

Your pod is backwards thats why you have screw length isssues. I did the same thing.

Here is a pic of how the pod should be, kind of hard to see but you get it

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1401834481

@Dezoris, thanks for the picture! It all makes sense now, haha. :thanks:

It's funny, here I am thinking I'm clever putting the washers there to make it work....nope, just have it backwards! :bonk:

No issue like I said I did the same crap and was like what is wrong this piece of shit. And I just looked at it for a while and was like, ooohhh it's impossible this could be my fault. :)

Haha don't worry! I had the same experience. Once I saw the steering wheel hit the gauges, I tried flipping it and boom! Good call on the washers though!

Update:

Driveshaft shop axles, and Kaaz 2 way Super Q diff installed along with the Weir Performance 4.56 final drive. Still in the process of breaking in the new gears. It's so hard not to get on the gas...especially when I am only going 58mph on the highway.

The assembly of the differential went pretty smooth. As mentioned earlier, I followed @Dustin's DIY. I ended up with 0.051" of pinion shimming, and 0.237" of carrier shimming. My backlash was approximately 0.006 - 0.0088". The FSM states a required backlash of ~0.005 - 0.007". The Weir Performance instructions states a required backlash of 0.008 - 0.010". I went with a happy medium as suggested by Spence at Weir. No whining so far, so it seems as though the backlash was OK, time will tell however. I don't think I will have any problems, but will report back after break in. My final numbers while checking the torque at the pinion nut was ~32-34 in*lbs. This was in the range for all new bearings. After checking the contact, it seems the pinion could have been a bit deeper, however, I did not have the proper shims to adjust the depth. At the end of the day, I was fairly happy with the contact, especially after checking it against multiple pictures of acceptable contact patterns.

FYI, the pinion nut torque values @Dustin has listed in his DIY are for USED bearings, just be aware. I was going off his values, and when everything was preloaded, I was getting numbers way higher than his, I started to worry. I then checked the FSM and found I was within the range for new bearings. So again, just an FYI.

https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...50&oe=5568761D

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...cc0d3147aa2665

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...38&oe=5531A03B

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...50953fe3b1b930

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...68&oe=5560611F

Now, installation of the diff into the car was a bit more difficult in my opinion. Ran into a few snags during. First, for whatever reason, someone did not lube the axle splines that interface with the hub on the drivers side - had to beat the axle out. The biggest issue though, was the fact that my perrin 3" cat back had issues clearing the larger MAP rear diff cover. We had to heat up the exhaust pipe and beat a good 1/4 - 1/2" radius into it as well as dremel some of the fins off the back left corner of the cover. Still, at the end of the day, it all got put together and I couldn't be happier.

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...72&oe=552B4BE9

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...839273a3d454aa

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...5fb7cf8a98ae7b

Sorry, haven't updated in a while. But, in short, there has been much going on with the car. I will post a more detailed update soon, but for now, here's what we have. I recently added the Ptuning water methanol kit, soon to be tuned by moto-mike. I threw on the 3.15" vortech pulley and had moto-mike tune the car, finally adding in my flex fuel kit from him. Damn, this car PULLS on E85. I cant wait to see how it does with the wmi. I also added the VIS vented hood. Love it, will post pics soon. Also plan on switching out the trunk for the VIS AMS carbon fiber trunk soon. More to come!

OH! And I am installing KW V3's today along with Vorshlag camber plates in the front, and SPL LCA's and Toe Arms in the rear. Will post pics!

are the toe arms necessary in the rear with lca's? Looks good man, although many of the pictures do not work.

Long story short, it depends. Mainly on how much you lower the car. Toe and camber affect one another, so if you lower the car enough that you need the LCA's to correct camber, you will more than likely need the toe arms to correct toe, when correcting camber. Do a search, you should find the limits of the stock suspension with regards to adjustment. I took the "why not" attitude. I like the idea of having full adjustment over the suspension, allowing me to fine tune it.

Again, sorry for very little posting lately. Again, much going on with the car. Finally got the VIS Racing AMS carbon fiber trunk installed, changed the spark plugs out for the HKS super fire plugs (same heat range as stock), swapped my perrin oil cooler for the FBM version, swapped my perrin shift knob for a Raceseng one, and bought a couple 55 gallon barrels of E98 (actual E85, when you can get it, is INSANE).

In the works: Front and Rear STi Brembo swap with DBA T3 5000 series lightweight rotors (next month or so), built motor and heads from element tuning (winter), and sadly, swapping the vortech kit for FBM's stage 2 turbo kit (winter). Going for high HP/torque next spring, stay tuned!

Update!

Pulled the engine over the holidays. Being sent out today to Element Tuning for a full build!

https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5b&oe=57494600

https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2f&oe=57141B38

Woah! Was your engine going out, or did you just decide to get it built?