Without a fancy tool there's no other way to torque the nut. Most people I've spoken to suggest a very short 1s zap with a low-output torque wrench or German torque spec using the Allen/pass-through on the top nut (until it's gudentite).

Aw dang, but I guess gudentite should work haha :thanks:

Or if you're brave enuff....you could use a vicegrip plier on the shock shaft. Just make sure you wrap the shaft nicely with some rubber (maybe old bicycle inner tube) and get a friend to hold the plier steady whilst you torque the top nut with a torque wrench.

You can also fab something up using a 17mm socket you don't want: file flats into it so you can grab with a 17mm crowfoot attached to your torque wrench's head. Stick Allen key through hole at the top to secure shaft. All sockets have a small hole on the back end, so it doesn't need to be a fancy pass through socket either! That would cost you probably $20 for the socket and crowfoot, plus time spent filing.

I've used this method plenty of times and have never damaged the shaft doing it. I use a few pieces of rubber wrapped in a rag. Then I clamp on and cross my fingers.


FWIW, I'm not too concerned with torquing that top nut to exact spec. But I'm pretty good at feeling "close" torque values by hand.

It seems this method might work while replacing the tophats with the whiteline com-c models, no reason I can see not to. I understand that the tophat would have to be dropped as an additional step. If so, this could save a good bit of time on the install.

Has anyone tried this?


EDIT:

I used this method to change out the springs today, but did not try the whiteline com-c tophats. I was short on time, but should be able to attempt it soon.

Thanks for posting this! I did mine today. Piece of cake. I did find it easier to remove the rear sway bar bolts, so I could pull the control arms down. That made it easy to just pull the strut out.

Just installed a buddy's Pro-Kit using these helpful tips, super easier than when I did mine!

To confirm, you can indeed tilt the rear strut to swap in the new spring/dust boot/bump stop. Only need to be unbolt 3 things to do this: strut top nut, LCA to hub knuckle bolt, and stabilizer bar to endlink bolt. No need to remove nor loosen the bolt holding the strut body to the LCA:

Links to the tools needed to remove the dreaded top nut.
 

Hi. Thank you for this diy. I ended using spring compressors (Free loaners from Autozone) but the info I really needed was how to remove that spinning top strut nut. Like you, I don't like using an impact wrench on that top nut because spinning the shaft can damage the strut and lead to a leak.

I know you show the tool to loosen it but I had a hard time finding it. I ended up using this from harbor freight tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piec...set-67974.html

For the rear strut the tiny hole presents new problems. I needed to use the included extension socket to tighten the rear. If you do not properly tighten the top hat you will hear a clunking noise. I am writing this from experience. :bonk:

Another mistake I made was OVERTIGHTENING the top nut. If you do this the spring will sit on the correct grooves but twist slightly. You'll know when you do this because turning the steering wheel to one extreme will produce creaking noises from the springs.

Another mistake I made was buying an electric impact wrench (don't do it!!!). I ended up spinning one of the strut shaft. I will check for leaks later. Most tire shops do not have computers with the FRS alignment numbers and do not do custom alignments. You will need to find a custom alignment shop. I ended up taking it to the toyota dealership. Took a half day and cost $90. I have heard lots of good things about http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/west-...OmvgsyqPMW2mow West End alignment in Gardena, CA.

For those that wanna know, the front strut can be oriented out as mentioned in an earlier post. Just push down slightly on the hat and pull it directly towards you. Just be careful not to scratch the paint near the wheel well when pulling it out.

:w00t: Thanks for this picture. It really shows how much simpler this install is. You can skip at least two major parts of the original diy.

I'm wondering if doing the install using this "simpler" method would negate the need for alignment work?

Or would you still need to send the car in for alignment regardless?

Are you lowering the car or reinstalling stock springs after removing stock springs?

If you lower the car get an alignment.

ok thanks....yes lowering with eibach pro-kit