would have been nice if the DIY told you needed a new O-ring before people tore things down and it's not seating properly. now they are on back order and can't even put things back together and have a usable vehicle...

I mentioned it in later posts...

I psyched myself out but this thread was important to read.
 

Hello all, I ended up doing this diy and this thread really scared me and had me second guessing my work.

When I tried to install the crank pulley (the first time) it was such a tight fit that when I attempted to re-position the perrin crank pulley the metal o ring popped out along with it. :cry:

I got scared. This thread immediately started flooding my mind. After panicking a bit, I found that with the o-ring off I was able to knock the perrin pulley on with my gloved fist. But because the pulley was on I wasn't able to see how the o ring was sitting in the crank case.

By slightly twisting the crank pulley it locked into position as well as sliding down a bit. When it is on properly I believe it will NOT rotate. IF you are able to rotate it is not sitting correctly. I found that spinning it back in place was not very difficult at all despite some of the earlier posts here. All you have to do is take a picture inside the crank case if you forgot which way the key was pointing and then put the crank pulley with the key pointed in that direction. After that twist until the crank pulley slides down a bit and locks into place.

But because of this thread I started second guessing my work and I took the pulley off to inspect how the o-ring was sitting. Here's my picture of the re-positioned o ring. https://plus.google.com/photos/10900...PCsg8rEiuv1gwE

I looked at the back and there was no damage. After removing the lightweight pulley and re-installing it seems to spin a little smoother than stock. So I think as long as you check to make sure that the crank pulley is not able to spin and you have the key pointed in the correct direction you will be fine. I hope this reduces some people's fears. I did get a CEL after the 2nd install but I think this post http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27900 is what happened >> "It was the intake. I didn't push it in far enough when reconnecting it to the inlet at the front of the engine bay where it connects in front of the airbox." I'll go take the car to auto zone to check the cel code but the pulley is spinning fine. BTW this mod was the most noticeable upgrade I've made so far. Highly recommend it. I haven't notice any increase in stalling after the upgrade and love how revs are less labored.

EDIT: Okay the next day I started the car and I was relieved to find that the CEL was gone. I did not disconnect the battery. I took it to autozone and they told me CA laws prohibit them from reading the CEL code for me. They did tell me that spinning the crank may have set the CEL.

Anyobe every do this on an automatic

Anyone ever do this on an automatic

Should be the exact same process.

Ive heard it might mess with the torque converter

I've had the Perrin pulley on my AT for nearly 18000 miles with no issues.

What made you take it off, also will this set off the check engine light or anything in that nature?

My question is, does a crank pulley make a noticeable difference on the car? I've never put much stock in "performance" pulleys but I'm guessing this is an effective mod judging by the popularity of it.

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Here's my take - The stock pulley is nearly 5lbs, and the Perrin one is 1.2lbs.

So, you're taking away that much weight that the crank has to accelerate every time you rev the engine. The advantage lies in rotating less mass at all times. You feel it when you rev for sure, it's a bit quicker compared to stock.

Add the looks, the relatively low price, and the easy install (once you do your research) and it really becomes a "why not?" situation.

There are some people who question the reason the stock one is so heavy, what it's made of, etc... But the deal is - most engines have some sort of dampening or vibration reducing material in their pulleys to reduce engine NVH from the crank - but those are usually I-4's, V6's, etc. Ours doesn't. Because the Boxer balances itself out at each rotation, there is no rouge vibration to dampen.

This may be a lot more info than you wanted, but I read wayyyy to much about these before I bought one. I put it on at about 200 miles on the odo, and I'm at about 4,500 now with 0 issues.

Hope this helps!

Good answer. Thank you!

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just a quick word to the wise -- I just removed my Kartboy crank pulley to replace the OEM pulley. Since I properly torqued the pulley bolt when I installed it, it was fairly easy to remove. But when I pulled the pulley off, the crank pulley spacer came right off with it. It was stuck to the pulley so the whole thing came out as a unit. It took me a while to figure out how to get them separated, I eventually managed to do it with a tapered rod (actually a ratchet handle) through the spacer and some judicious use of a rubber mallet on the pulley.

Anyways just be aware that if you ever have to remove an aftermarket pulley, there is a chance the spacer will be stuck to the pulley when you pull it off. Don't know if there is something preventative you can do to keep this from happening, like oiling or greasing the contact point between pulley and spacer?

big up on this post, will come in handy, did that on my 1jz and every one was saying it's going to cause problems glad to hear our engines are naturally balanced