It’s pretty tight I wasn’t able to have the coil just resting there with the plug in it I tried and it would fall or the engine would move too much and I wouldn’t be able to verify if there was spark or not and it had nowhere to ground to


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Gas was bad but I changed it out and replaced plug after that and still nothing. As for the multimeter yea I do understand what you’re saying but again to be able to probe the wires/hold it in place/be able to read what’s going on all at one time is pretty tough I’ll give it a shot tho just gotta check the service manual for the specifications I should be getting


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Get a friend to help. No point in continuing until you know.

I know who James is, he tuned my car. I drove 4 hours to meet up with him and spent 3 hours tuning it. Remote tunes are tricky so if you have the time or option to drive to him I would sir.

I do have a friend helping he’s cranking while I’m in the engine bay but I’ll give it another try and I’ll let you know what I find


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Maybe something like this would help:
https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Electroni...extension+wire

I didn't study my search results very long but I bet you can get a single wire for cheaper. With that maybe you could get the plug out in the open where you can see it better.

You can at least swap the coils, right, and keep the plugs the same? Try that. Then inspect the plugs.

I had a similar issue when doing my turbo/injector/Motec install.

We had temporarily installed 4x Exhaust Gas Temperature thermocouples - one per cylinder. That let us immediately track down the cylinder with the problem and then fault finding become much easier.

So I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 I took out my harness and traced my maf wired all the way to the big connector and nothing still. I still have the maf code but after I reinstalled the harness the car after a while of cranking and hard starting it turns on and idles for about a minute before it dies out. Maf is reading and the maf voltage from the signal with at around 700rpm fluctuates from 1.6-1.7 volts

I was told to check my fuel pressure and on the low side it is good but are there any common issues with high side not having pressure? I need to check again and see what my fuel pressure is at but I was sure I was getting good high side fuel pressure since it’s the only one with a sensor I should see it with scanner or with a log. Have you guys seen any issues with the high side fuel pressure not having enough pressure?

assume you have looked over all the logging values using ecutek to make sure they are all read something sensible?

Yea for the most part, James said it all looks good except my fuel pressure which I can’t seem to figure out I’ve changed pump and it doesn’t seem to build pressure, the cam follower is in and it’s torqued right. According to Toyota manual it’s resistance between the pins is in spec. But I have low side fuel pressure being read by the high pressure sensor.

So I swapped over my friends DI module and my pressure came up to 1.8 mpa but it requires 4 so I wanna see I’m kind of in the right track. What throws me off is that my pressure fuel sensor isn’t giving me a low fuel pressure code or any code for my fuel pressure

Everything is primed up nicely. No air in the system?

Yes, but it fluctuates really bad it goes from 1.8 mpa to .5 then back up and so on it’s very annoying


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