I can't wait to see this thing run. Good luck.

My motor mounts are welded to the crossmember and it was done in place.

There is nothing heat sensitive there, and I do plan to welding up plates and a few angles to support the load to one of the holes on the front of the cross member.

Example here from Element Tuning: https://i.imgur.com/pnpKDdE.jpg

Thank you gentlemen!

Updated my post #6 (linked) by installing the Mishimoto Radiator.


Also checked where the shifter is lining up, its just behind the OEM location, but pretty close:
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...47443910-5.jpg
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...47443803-5.jpg
To note, this is on the third hole of the CX racing mount. I could move forward one hole but I may lose clearance for the sway bar, will check.

You have any updates on what you had to dent in the trans tunnel and how much? You put the trans in with the engine mounted, or pull it all out, put trans on, and put it all back in?

I guess pulling the engine out for you just means lifting the body up lol.

I haven't dropped the body all the way onto the engine yet. Been occupied with other areas...

I'm tracking each wire thats unnecessary, marking it, testing it, and will be removing it now that I'm running a LS harness.
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...52170192-4.jpg

Glad you're doing this so you can tell me exactly what I need to not do ;)

been busy sorting through this mess:
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...60598728-6.jpg

If budget allows, going Motec to avoid this would be recommended. I have a Motec PNP LS Kit I'll be listing for sale here shortly.

Update: WiringSpecialties now makes a PNP harness. Get it.

Finally lowered the car all the way down onto the engine via the lift.

Spots of interference around the Trans:

UPDATE: I ended up cutting several casting tabs off of the transmission - most notably around the reverse switch and top-sides of bellhousing. Doing that only required some very minor hammering in the tunnel then. Get a ford t56 reverse switch to save room, delete CAGS with a block off for additional room.

https://imgur.com/4r5Wbtb.jpg
https://imgur.com/ayBYK1G.jpg
https://imgur.com/HKovfTM.jpg
https://imgur.com/7us4pOX.jpg

Some more test fitting.

It appears there is practically zero clearance at the reverse switch wiring connector (passenger side).. Found a potential solution of using a Ford T56 reverse switch as it comes out and does a 90* turn immediately. Its: Motorcraft SW5857 Backup Light Switch

It looks like the reverse lockout will clear, but it scratched my trans tunnel so maybe not, I just ordered a spring loaded reverse lockout delete, frees space and no wiring or solenoid is needed there.

Also was hitting this shield for the fuel lines. Created my own bracket and wrapped lines:
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...67141444-6.jpghttps://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...70838252-4.jpg

Got the ford reverse switch in, saves some good space:
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...71101629-6.jpg

Here it is installed, with the surround tabs on the trans trimmed, you can see the tight clearance:
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...64707048-6.jpg

Here is the space with the Reverse solenoid, and CAGs removed:
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...64706835-6.jpg

Here I have the clutch line flipped forward to access. I would recommend installing remote speed bleeder, theres not enough room to access the bleeder.
https://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/...64706936-5.jpg

I designed up a clutch master cylinder recess- It puts the master cylinder roughly 3/4" behind the firewall, freeing space for the valve covers, fixes the shorter distance of the Tilton pushrod.

https://imgur.com/lBdKdrD.jpg

I've 3D printed a test peice, and hope to have a CNC'd prototype in my hands in a week.

Awesome! I forgot to mention that I have a 3D printer so if you need parts you can just toss me the file and I'll print it for you. No need to pay the price at Proto :)