I see it drop to 17.5 or so on a hard pull very briefly then goes straight back to 28.4-5 right away. The spurts of boost are shorter and shorter these days.

There is something definitely wrong with your dump pack or dump pack connection then. Check that all your fitting are tight and connected. If they are then test the batteries as recommended.

Are you using Odyssey's or powersonic? 2 years is pretty good length for the batteries considering the load we put them under.

Thanks,

Ok I'll check that this weekend.

I'm running 2x Big Crank ETX16 Batteries for the dump pack. Is there a newer/better battery to run? If so, are the connectors the same?

Thanks.

You can use the Odyssey batteries instead of the etx16s if they are bad. And honestly you may like them more.


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You have links to the odyssey batteries? Are the connections the same?

Yup. PC 680 for the batteries. You may need a new copper bar for the dumps in series.


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Oh interesting, thats the battery I'm using as the starter battery. So are people using three of these batteries now? 1 for starter and 2 for dump pack?

Yup


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I have 1 PC680 and 2 big cranks only 1 year old 10k miles if anyone interested.

Anyone want these? Pay for shipping and they are yours. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...77a70fc961.jpg


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btw, this is exactly the cause of the problem i was having. checked the charge of the dump batteries and one could not keep a charge over 11v. swapped them out for my original power sonic pack until i get my new odysseys in. also invested in a de-sulphering charger. obviously the copper plate between the two batteries was too short, used 10gauge copper electrical wire (single strand) bent to exact fit. works like a charm.

Hey guys, I'm selling my car so I'm parting out my ESC and OFT if anyone interested:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118140

watching sojhhin's latest install video (big thx btw) i noticed the dump pack was now grounded (sharing the main battery ground path). can anyone explain the benefit of doing that?

Yup. Simpler wiring and Basically the whole car shares the same ground (0 voltage). Less chance for ground loops too.

And no problem!


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i am about to install my catless header. is there new ots map for ESC+ UEL header?
current version i have is v2.02 for 91 oct, 93 oct, E85

Technically the tune was developed under a catless header so you should be good. The newest tune would be the flex tune. There are two versions of the flex:

Uel header
&
OEM header


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thx for quick reply Sojhinn!!
i should be good then since i dont have any flex fuel kit
i will post some logs later

Cool beans. Would love to see the logs. Which header did you get?


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TOMEI UEL catless..couldnt find any used for one for 3 months so i had to get new :(

just finished installed tomei uel and had datalogging

my mod is below

phantom esc v3
Tomei UEL
3rd Party OP
Berk FP
Q300

anway, i did some pulls on 3rd gear and looks little rich
i used 91 oct map
http://www.datazap.me/u/zc06kissther...a=1-2-5-7-8-10

here's some highway and some 4th gear pulls

http://www.datazap.me/u/zc06kissther...=1-5-7-8-10-12

last one is just driving around in highway as well as local

http://www.datazap.me/u/zc06kissther...og=0&data=1-12

i think i need some adjustment on tune.

thoughts?

forgot to post some vid!

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bO2KzIT9Nfo"]Tomei header BRZ - YouTube[/ame]

Sounds great man, nice a smooth. That Q300 works wonders with your other mods. How does it feel driving with boost now?

i can tell torque is improved before.
but i dont feel it's super faster either too
overall it got better!

Hi guys, just a little blast from the past to let you know that the old V1 I had running on my 1993 Camry, is now installed on my 1999, Toyota Solara, V-6, 5spd manual. It seems to get along quite well with this more modern OBD2 engine management system, and continues to run with no CEL,s at a very nice pace. For reference it seems that it has a little more moxy than say... A Ford Explorer eco boost 3.5, to benchmark the general pace. This was a test/mule, self installed proto tester from back in the day, and it's still pushing some pretty good boost and fun around locally. :D

This is pretty cool to hear. I ended up going full supercharged last year after having the V2 in my FRS for over a year and this brings back good memories :)
It's a little thrill that keeps on thrillin'


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Hi guys. New poster here. I recently aquired a Phantom V2 ESC. But I'm having problems getting the DC motor to engage. Basically by all indications I should be good. I see 28.2 v on the meter. New pc680 batteries. I get all the beeps on startup. The controller fans starts up. Yet nothing from the motor/compressor on either click of the footswitch. Checked and rechecked all connections. I have also checked continuity on every wire that is between two components. Have been in contact with Sojhinn and Fenton, even with their help and suggestions no solution has come to light. Not too far back in this thread member @eft86 seemed to be exactly where I am. Didn't see where, if he found a solution. I msg him but haven't heard back. Maybe he's moved on? Anyway, I'm hoping one of you good folks will read this and have something further for me to try. I'm at a loss right now. Btw I did try Rob as well, but not heard there either. Thanks for any thoughts you can give.

Did you pm or email rob? Rob always gets back to me in less than a day via email. He's the best person to walk you through troubleshooting.


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I have PM'd Rob. Haven't heard back

So this happened...

ESC stopped working. Internal voltmeter frozen at 28.7v. Tested dump batteries and they are fine. Connection between the two is OK (Running 3 PC680's).

Controller fan and aux unit fans go on, however the beeps weren't audible on startup.

So I looked at the connections from the controller to the turbine noticed the black and blue wires were singed and fused at the connection point. The electrical tape was melted. Managed to get them apart and they are blackened... See pics. The red connector is ok.

Anyone seen this before? Any idea of what could have caused this? What's the remedy?

Thanks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...78afdb59e4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dc299db77c.jpg

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Moisture intrusion and a little bit of corrosion made the connection resistive.

Then dumping tons of current through it heated it.

No biggie. I'm guessing you'll just have to replace the connector.

that sounds likely, but I thought the connectors were gold plated to keep them from corroding. My first thought was maybe they were rubbing together from engine vibration and it wore the insulation enough to start arcing.

Email and get a response within a day.


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I see you managed to fix this up on the other phantom thread. I did as well with a similar connection issue, after 3 years of use. This is still too much fun! ( even with my old fashioned unit on a 3.0l engine .

In the market for new set of Odyssey 680mj's batterys so I can get my new(used) Phantom kit up and running. I have a source locally which seems fairly cheap but wanted to know if any of you had some place that was really cheap (including shipping) before I order to compare.
There's Battery Mart and...?

What sort of lifespan have owners been seeing with the Magna Power ETX16L batteries as the dump batteries. I'm having some activation issues with my ESC and am wondering if my two-year old batteries are the first thing to look at. The system is not giving me full boost, only about 2.4 psi max and the voltage meter is dropping to 18 to 17 V under activation, momentarily drops to 0.00 V and the boost is gone, and then reads 26 to 27 V with the throttle pedal still wide open. I have PM'd Rob and am waiting for a response, but was wondering if others have had this issue as well.

Here is a data log I took today
https://datazap.me/u/vfrqqq/log-1509...log=0&data=1-9

This was a WOT pull.

Also, just measured the voltage on my ETX16L dump batteries. 12.6 V and 13.05 V on each. Not sure if that is "low" though. Shouldn't they nominally be around 13.5 V to 14 V?

About 2-3 years before replacement. Yours are probably ready or will be soon. Time for new ones.

So they may be failing even if the resting voltages for both batteries are around 13 V?

For anyone that has noticed a smell (e.g., gas/oil odor) during/after the ESC is activated, have any of you installed a check valve on the PCV line and noticed a difference? I just installed the check valve, but have some activation issues with my ESC so I haven't been able to properly notice whether the smell I usually get is gone.

Hi, Sorry about the delay in the response. Didn't see it. This is beyond my knowledge of battery wear/decay and performance. I'd say, if you're in the 2-3 year window and the system isn't performing as it had prior. Battery wear/duty cycle in this application has been identified as one of the more likely issues.

I think you may be on to something. I also have a check valve installed in a PCV side catch can. It captures a fair amount of blowby and I have no oily smell from under the hood or while driving. Yep, this could be the source of an oily smell from anyone running an ESC (or any forced induction for that matter) without a PCV side catch can and check valve.