recently i noticed that my battery tie bar down looked little loose and moved little and my batteries moved a bit. i re tightened but wondering heavy batteries cause battery tie get loose??

Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread
 

Most likely just vibrations. Just put some thread lock if you are worried.


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Final bump before I recycle them.

I probably gonna disassemble and adjust again. no big deal but just my laziness haha

whoa whoa I'll take them!

I need 12v batteries for garage stuff here and there please!

Pm'd

1yr+ milestone check-in post.

NOTE: I don't drive very much (As a matter of fact I switched my car insurance to Metromile (they base your premium on your mileage) and literally dropped my rates by more than 1/2 because of it!), so take that into account.

No issues, everything has been fine and for the most part I forget it's even there now...mostly. It's kind of like having a little Tasmanian Devil in my pocket; He's just there, chillin and hanging out. UNTIL that clueless mook on the road is doing something stupid and I want to put some distance between him and me. Then I remember Taz is right here in my pocket for just such occasions and I let him out! A couple of seconds later the mook is in my rear-view mirror pissing someone else off and I get a little reminder of just how badass Taz is as I put him back in my pocket and he goes back to chillin.

Oh, on another note, does anyone know a way to make the voltage box brighter? It's almost useless to try and read it during the day. Thanks.

Hey any of you removing the spare tire and loading the trunk spare area with bigger and more batteries?

I did, sorta. I moved my factory starter battery to the trunk and have been running two sets of the original dump, power sonic (PS-12180-NBX2) batteries for almost 2 years exactly now. I haven't had any problem out of the setup besides loosing some trunk space and easy spare tire access. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69409&

Heres a video on the two new Phantom Systems:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm0ZZxxM0oU"]Phantom Electric Supercharger v4 TQ-25024V 4KW & 5KW Motors - YouTube[/ame]

Well, I havent visited this thread in a while. But i wanted to mention that I will soon post for sale my 2nd Phantom ESC.

I purchased it originally from another member here on the forum. I re-did some of the wiring connections and put new connectors on. Its easier now to install. But i dont have any pictures yet. However, when i get back in town this weekend I will get post up.
However, thought i would do a preemptive strike here first.

Kit works great and I have all the parts to also install it onto an NC miata. That was where it was headed, a friend of mine was going to use it for his NC. But, he jumped ship to a Mini...so he doesnt need it. My BRZ is gone now (may get another, undecided) so i have a great ESC with no home.

Contact me with any interest, but I will have a classified posted sometime this weekend.

Quick query to the Phantom power users: Sojhinn, Fenton, several others you know who you are.

What's the current status for Shiv's off-the-shelf tune for our systems?
Has there been any further update after this post on 07-26-2014: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=58

The tune was still technically in beta status at that point... and we're now >2 years later. It's probably an opportune moment to take a pulse of what the official stance is.

Why? My ECU got reflashed by a dealership and just want to know whether to go back to the slightly modded tune I had, or revert to a Shiv OTS tune, preferably a more recent one if it exists.

Unless you got your car tuned on a dyno by someone that knows what they are doing... I would only use Shivs OTS tunes.

I know he's interested in making a flex fuel tune on the phantom, and when he's done with the NA tune he plans on switching to us.

As for a regular OTS update? Probably not. I reached out to him before and he says there isn't much more to get. That was before the 5kw system though....


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In resume, the new version give you the chance to get progresive boost via analog switch, like conventional supercharger?

There are two activations: one linesr and one logarithmic.


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compressor motor is turned easily by hand
 

So I opened my hood this evening to find that the three power cables connecting the compressor motor to the controller were completely twisted up. Upon further inspection I found that the DC motor and the plate to which it is attached are able to move with respect for the compressor housing. The large retaining ring is still in place; however it appears to be able to move independent of the plate too. I can turn the DC motor fairly easily with my hand in both directions.

EDIT: I have removed the compressor and reverted back to stock until I can get this sorted out.

This is a video of me rotating the motor and plate. You can also see the retaining ring move.

https://youtu.be/pnJ14w1S2vs

I don't know how it is put together but the motor and plate shouldn't move. That plate should be keyed or splined into the compressor housing so that it can't spin, or friction/press fit at the least. Please keep us informed, this may be the first mechanical failure for this system.

Contact Rob. That's your best bet. I haven't encountered this with anyone I have helped.


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dammm

I contacted Rob and, outside of shipping the compressor back to him to have him install a thicker snap ring, he recommended removing the snap ring, separating the motor from the compressor housing, and applying some red RVT silicone sealant to fix the motor plate to the compressor housing mating surfaces. Personally, I have the tools and comfort level to disassemble the compressor unit myself and Rob was very helpful in describing how I should apply the liquid gasket. I'll be doing the fix this weekend and will post pics to show what I did, for anyone that is interested. It seems like this fix should take care of the problem and it seems like Rob has also done this with other units, but I will continue to monitor the compressor and motor to verify it is still holding firm.

Unfortunately, I don't know how long I was using the system since this happened as I just happened to be interested in looking under the hood for something else; however, I am fairly certain that it happened sometime after my last oil change, which was about three weeks ago, as I didn't notice anything untoward when I looked under the hood then. My main concern, which I expect is shared by others, is that, aside from directly observing the twisted cables, there was no indication of a problem and it makes me wonder how much longer I might have used the system and continued to strain the power cables before they eventually gave way. Since I'm not familiar with the variations in between different versions of compressors, I defer to Rob (and others) regarding whether others need to preemptively address this issue.

These are the steps I took to disassemble my compressor unit and apply some liquid silicone sealant to keep the motor plate from twisting with respect to the compressor housing. I don’t know how other compressor units were assembled, but my compressor had the motor plate, to which the motor and compressor wheel are mounted, held in place by the friction of a black snap ring.

I used a bicycle spanner to remove the snap ring, which ended up doing the trick, but I needed vice-grip plyers to sufficiently compress the snap ring.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1480188921

The motor and compressor housing move freely with the snap ring removed and are easily separated; however, it is a tight fit so I proceeded slowly to keep the compressor wheel from hitting the inside of the compressor housing.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1480188921

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1480188921

With the motor separated, you can see the mating surface of the motor plate and compressor housing where the sealant will be applied.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1480188921

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1480188921

I cleaned the motor plate and compressor housing mating surfaces with rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl alcohol solution). While I was at it, I also cleaned up the inside of the compressor housing as it had an oil film. Something I though was interesting was the fact that the interior of the compressor housing appears to have little pits all over the place (see previous pic). Assuming my air filter is doing its job, I’m not exactly sure what is causing this. Perhaps others can report whether they observe this too. With the mating surfaces clean, I applied a ~1/16” bead of JB Weld red RTV silicone sealant to the compressor housing mating surface. The sealant was a little difficult to apply evenly along the surface so I ended up wiping off the excess with my finger taking care not to get any on the interior of the compressor housing. Doing resulted in a fair amount of excess sealant getting pushed into the groove where the snap ring seats; however, I ended up cleaned out that groove after reinstalling the motor plate. With the sealant evenly applied to the compressor housing mating surface, I carefully reinstalled the motor plate and gently pressed it into the compressor housing with a slight twisting motion to spread out the sealant. After the motor plate was installed I let the sealant cure for a few hours and found that it was already held firmly in place. The following picture shows the end result.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1480188921

I reinstalled the snap ring and let the unit cure for 24 hours before reinstalling in the car.

Has anyone played around with higher AH batteries like 30AH? I want to be able to get full sessions in on track. I guess an AUX charger would help too :).

I think aux charger would be best.


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Does anyone have an updated link to the OF tune for the Phantom ESC? It seems its been moved on the website, and all the links I can find are dead.

Tks.

Email Shiv directly.


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Did. No answer yet, though admittedly just a day has passed.

Could be weeks to months before you get a response...

UPDATE: No problems to date! The red RVT sealant is holding fast under normal use.

45 degrees here in sunny Florida today and the car is running GREAT. The ESC really loves the cold weather.
However, the voltage on my meter varies between 28.4V and 18V. On a long 2nd and 3rd gear pull, the voltage drops all the way to 18V. It recovers very quickly to 28.3 but 18V seems kinda low. Seems like the lowest it usually goes is about 20V.
Do you think it's because of the cold or are my batteries starting to die? It's going to warm back up in a couple days and I can check then, but I figured you all are in colder climes than me.
What is your voltage range?

And when I say it drops to 18V, I mean just for a microsecond. It starts to recover as soon as I let off the gas.

How long is the pull? And I imagine it's the temperature.


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mine does that too. it suddenly changes then drops slowly from 2x.x

Thanks
You're right. I think it IS the temperature. It warmed up yesterday and everything seems back to normal. The pull is from 2nd gear through 3rd gear to redline. About 2 to 3 seconds I would guess. Just about as fast as you can go without getting arrested.

FYI - my kit is up for sale in classifieds. Version 1.5 dump but I have the latest batteries. Only thing that doesn't work is voltage readout.

Just want to inform everyone that Shiv finalized the flex fuel tune for the Phantom.

I have to say I really love not worrying about what fuel to use and just filling up where I please.

I recommend the flex setup... Not very expensive and easy to install.


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just giving small update since i installed mine (v3.0) last year.
nothing is broken and still giving me power as new. battery is still fine.

Update for me now longer have it. But now someone else can enjoy it!

Now that I have a base JDL ($3k) kit I can compare if anyone is interested....

Well frankly there is no comparison. My low to mid torque/hp is even stronger. Full boost is in the 3.5k area. Only place the ESC may have an advantage is below 2.5-3k. But who boosts that low a lot of load on the engine. Top end above 5k is end of story its 3x as strong. Guess that's not surprising as the ESC tapers to less than 2psi up top.

Hey guys, I've been running this kit (rev2) for the last couple of years and its been great. Recently however, I've run into an issue: it seems as if the dump the batteries run out of juice very quickly. During normal driving the voltage meter reads at 28.X but when I step on it to activate the ESC the voltage drops very quickly and then goes back up to 28.X quickly as well all within seconds. Before, it would drain and charge much more slowly and I could get longer runs in w/ the ESC. Do you know what could be wrong? Is this a sign that I need new dump batteries possibly?
@Sojhinn @Robftss

Disconnect the dump batteries and check them with a volt meter. You can try trickle charging them with a battery charger as well. (Individually)



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Thanks. The volt meter inside the car shows a "healthy" 28.X. You think each battery is low? What voltage should each be at? How long do these dump batteries last typically?

The voltage will still read 28 volts with a single bad battery. If you are anywhere near San Diego I csn give you one of my extra batteries.


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What is it dropping to? If it is 18 or below when you hit the throttle there is a issue with the dump pack connection or dump pack itself. Typically thats what it drops to if it is running off the alternator.

Thanks,