haha..nice! but not my style though
want some Audi style like "E. Supercharged" ?


holy shit...

The Odyssey PC680 (and the MJ (metal jacketed) version)) are slightly longer and taller, but the same width as the Powersonic PSH12180.

Powersonic PSH-12180
- Length . 7.13”
- Height. 6.59”
- Width. 3”
- Weight. 14 lbs.(total)

Odyssey PC680
- Length . 7.15”
- Height. 6.65”
- Width. 3”
- Weight. 14.5 lbs.(total)

Copypasta'd from Rob's site
http://www.phantomsuperchargers.com/batteries.html

This is exactly why I sold it.
I hardly engaged it. It feels criminal to 100% - mash the throttle. Meanwhile, I am feeling the air restriction during normal driving conditions.
What amazing technology,.. just didn't work for me in this situation.

Those with the newer Partial Throttle FootSwitch (PTS) and/or PROcede controllers don't have this issue at all.

Don't know what you mean here as "drag reduction" tech built into earlier kits ensured "air restriction during normal driving" never happened.

Shame you didn't stick around. Everything you mentioned has been changed and/or upgraded. Still, this is bleeding edge tech. So folks that buy have to fully understand what they're currently getting. In your case, it sounds like it was a ver 1.0 kit which at the time was described as a "Full Throttle Supercharger". Newer kits have since evolved beyond that.
:)

Honestly theres one kit that keeps being passed on that has been rewired by members that I think is not very good. The batteries are still being used too, I wish it would stop being passed on as it isn't representative of the current system.

Could be tuning as well. Going from NA tuned with the ESC to tuning that it changed my MAF scaling by 10%. After that was fixed in ecutek I got back the crisp throttle response. People using the OFT might not be so lucky unless they retune.

As most know I have the V1 kit it is weird going full throttle at 3k but you get use to it.

I still have my original v. 1 kit and even though I don't use it much, I love having it available when I need it. And then once a month or so I just kick it out on a favorite back road to make sure it's still working. :) I also don't understand the air restriction issue mentioned - I don't feel it.

Guess I've never upgraded because I'm so satisfied with my current setup. ESC, flex fuel kit and Ecutek tune.

Really? I activate mine all the time. A least a few times a day. Just quick 3-5 second bursts.

Hi guys,

I just finished installing my v3 kit. Voltmeter beeps upon starting, stays at 28.4. I checked all the connections and they are all good and I made sure they are as tight as possible. However, thr blower does not engage upon activation of the switch when I depress the throttle. When I am driving and engage full throttle, I can hear the clicks but feel nothing, nor does the volt meter readings change.

I am not sure where to start checking for faults. Upon inspection of the throttle switch all soldering points look solid, it is connected, the big red connectors are very tight, the 3 connections going into the blower have been attached as tightly as I can.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Recheck your connections and check to see if the foot switch has a good ground. Maybe try it against a good known ground.

Also make sure all the wires are in the correct direction. Take pics?


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Hello Sojhinn, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I am not very mechanically inclined and have very little knowledge as far as electricals goes, should I get a multimeter to check different points of the foot switch?

Here are the pictures

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psrdqsdf7b.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psxikcjxyb.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psw05vyt7c.jpg

Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread
 

Based on the pictures it looks like you have one of the newer kits. Most likely this is the grounding issue I was talking about.

The foot switch requires any part of its metal frame to be touching a ground point of the car (which is typically any metal part). Unfortunately the nut and bolt on the accelerator pedal can be covered in paint which can make it harder to get a good ground.

What I would like you to try is to undo the foot switch and hold it against one of the metal screws in the door frame of the car with the drivers side door open. And then with the car on just tap the switch to see what happens.


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Good morning Sojhinn,

I held the switch against all 3 bolts in the door frame and engaged while car is on, no dice :(.

I am going to recheck all my connections. Based on what you know so far, is it worth it to recheck my battery arrangement? It's reading a stable 28.5 and beeps for a few seconds upon start up.

All I can say is triple check everything. And make sure all the colors match up. If that fails contact Rob.


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I think one of the connectors is supposed to be left disconnected. The new versions have a connection for PROcede adapters as well, so it may be looking for PROcede input instead of throttle switch input. There should only be 3 inputs connected to the controller. Thick cables to the 28v pack, medium cables to the 12v input, and thin cables to the throttle switch and voltage readout/switch. There is also a thin cable connector for PROcede users as well. This should be taped off to prevent accidental grounding.

This is acting like there is no throttle switch connection. Isn't there 5v going to the throttle switch which can be measured with a voltmeter? A $10 Radio Shack voltmeter could save you a lot of frustration.

Kool, the new controller has 4 separate connections for the system...

One goes to the voltage reader/fuse connection, one goes to the foot switch, one 12 volt connection to the battery posts, and one to the dump packs.


Also the ground is now shared among the entire system and the car. Which is why I was double checking the ground issue. And I agree a multimeter would be EXTREMELY useful here but I've found so many people don't have one.






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Thanks for the tips! I don't recall seeing another connector other than the throttle switch and volt switch, but I will check again to make sure I didn't screw up plugging something where I wasn't supposed.


I'll also pick up a multimeter to read the throttle switch connection once I am off work.

yeah, multimeters are really nice to have. They aren't too expensive, but if any of you have a harbor freight around/near you, they frequently have coupons for a "free" multimeter if you buy 20 bucks of stuff or whatever.

Like I said, you can get a fairly inexpensive one too lol...but for just testing a "yes/no" electrical setup, the "free" one works lol.

Thanks for the tip! Not sure where the nearest harbor freight but looks like Google is telling me I have to go to the states! and my passport is expired haha. I think I will just pick up a cheapo multimeter from radioshack or equivalent on my way home.

Quick update.
After buying a multimeter, I started with my controller and checked all the connections on there. I have a 12 v power source, checked and it reads 12, I have the big red connectors and it reads 24v, I have the foot switch and volt display, foot switch reading fluctuates between 3.xx to 4.xx, volt display lights up so I assume it's working and did not check. The blue/red/black going into the blower are connected tight and color matched. These are all the connections that I have on my controller.

Currently trying to find time to get my mechanic friend to take a look to see if I did something stupid. I really appreciate the time and effort of everybody that has offered advice so far, any further input on where else I should check for a potential fault is highly appreciated!

I am already in touch with Rob and he is very helpful and gracious, I just want to do everything I can before I send anything back for him to inspect.

This man is doing god's work spreading knowledge.

This 40-20 tune really works!
 

I just got back from a marathon, (24 hours), of driving, (with rest stops), between Vancouver, WA. and Rio Vista, CA. Bringing my mother-in-law, and all her stuff, to her new place. Because I was driving my mother-in-law's 2011 Corolla,which was towing the trailer, most of the time my wife drove my BRZ. As anyone from CA knows, the maximum legal speed towing a trailer is 55mph, so that's what we set our cruise controls for. By the time we filled up outside Sacramento, she had averaged 42.1 MPG in my BRZ, on cheap Cali premium.

This is a car with an unrestricted exhaust, a Phantom Electric Supercharger under the hood, running a PROcede map that boosts at anything over 1200 rpm's, if anything, this should cause it to use more fuel. It's just simple math. More air requires more fuel, right? This average mpg means it was making more power. Enough power to average 42 mpg. I even made 40.5 average mpg towing the empty trailer.

There was one other big change to my 40-20 tune. It was finally making enough power that the OEM Drive-By-Wire throttle table for AT's was causing it to lunge from a dead stop, so I switched to an OEM MT throttle table to make to easier for my wife to drive. The MT throttle table has more of a straight rate then the AT table, but less power at initial launch.

My car has never run this smoothly. Every shift, up or down, it never bogged or surged. The cruise control shifted as necessary to climb the steepest grades with ease, and even downshifted as low as 4th gear automatically to use engine braking on the descents.

This 40-20 tune is all about drive-ability, not peak horsepower on a dyno. I think this latest marathon of driving has proven it's a much better driving tune than the OEM tune, and even better than a lot of off-the-shelf tunes.

anyone know if we need a new tune if we were to get an open flash flex fuel kit?

Is it out?


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https://www.fftec.com/item/2078/Open...el_System.html

Only for MT for now.

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The problem is the tune. Memory addresses need to be discovered for most of the US MT and AT cars, to communicate with the sensor. Once those are discovered they can be added to the appropriate definition files and the tunes can be made. Then the kit can be released.

I believe so

The kit is out. The tune is not. Purchase directions point to OFT's custom E-Tunes page, and specify they are currently only available for MT's. So, they are still needing the correct memory addresses to use the kit with all CAL ID's. I would love to help create the tunes for AT's, but can't afford it right now.

do you know where i can get an aux charger @Sojhinn?

I had an aux charger and it didn't do a bit of good. The problem was the batteries. They just didn't recharge quick enough for my liking. The 600 watt audio batteries recharge so quickly, if I'm not paying attention, I miss it completely. That also means the charge doesn't last as long though. So ask yourself, which means more to you, quick dump with quick charge, or slow discharge with slow recharge.

What version of phantom?


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Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread
 

I'm sorry but that's not true. The aux charger makes a pretty big difference depending on the setup. On the setup I first had the aux charger: it reduced charging time by 50% and on my current setup I've sped up charging by 80%-100%.

More importantly the amount work the controller does is reduced which helps reduce the chances of hitting thermal limits.

The aux charger may not be for everyone but to state it doesn't do anything is wrong.

But don't just take my word for it... Feel free to ask others who have it.


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version 1.5. I was thinking of getting some new batteries as well (the big crank). will it work with the old batteries as well? @Sojhinn

Based on my experience I would snag 3x PC 680s... 1 for the starter two for dump packs and forget the big cranks. Just cap the .5 connections and call it a day. With that setup you shouldn't need the aux charger per Rob.


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do you know anyone running this set up @Sojhinn?

I used a variation just recently.


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which pc680 would you recommend? will they fit in the tray?

PC 680 mj


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Evening All,

If anyone is interested in parting with their Phantom ESC i'd be very interested to make a deal. I let the latest one slip out of my hands, and after some discussion would like to utilize it as part of my last grad-school project. I've peaked interest in a few folks and would love to incorporate it into some plans. I'm still around ~62nd or so on the waiting list so thought that I could post up here in case anyone has been on the fence with theirs or is looking to go full-time forced induction.

Appreciated!

Thanks. Once i get em I'll keep you posted