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I wish I were still in my 20's and had an extra parking spot for a sub 10g track-ready vehicle. I don't really judge in any circumstance anyways.
If one tracks an e30 M3, don't be surprised it will cost as much as a 2009 M3 to keep in tip-top shape. If I saw one on the track, honestly would respect the e30 more than a 2015, though. You might want to avoid the MR-2. Convinced even the lightest of contact with someone on the track will result in an uncorrectable spinout. Almost bought an showroom N/A one ten years ago for like 4 thousand bucks. Strange to not see any mk1 GTI's on the road anymore. |
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The other part to consider, since it will be dedicated to the track, is safety. Buying a used race car means you get a race seat, 5pt/6pt belts and a cage so you're safe in the event you ball it up. Also, since it's a used race car it has ultra low resale value so you can get into something fun, fast and is also affordable to "ball it up" vs anything else. CRX: http://classifieds.racerconnect.com/details.php?id=474 E46: http://nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=129883 Civic: (formerly raced by Shea Holbrook) http://nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=129961 NASA National Championship Car: http://classifieds.racerconnect.com/...c/details.html ITS Prepped 240sx: http://classifieds.racerconnect.com/...-/details.html |
Yeah I went to rx-7 club and there is a thread the community saying to a guy that stick with the Miata because is super cheap, but they also stated that a Rx-8 is really good and can find one at a decent price
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Maybe next year I build one of these since it was my first car, problem is aftermarket support are bad, maybe swap a 4g63 to it
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^^ at the very minimum replace the head with a non-jet one.
I miss my old Conquest and always keep an eye out for an 88 or 89. Hard to find a nice one for cheap. I bought mine for $900 and it was a perfectly good car. Rallycrossed and autocrossed it. It was a blast. Spun a bearing doing donuts with it eventually :( Ended up parting it out for well over 3k. |
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Since then I just replace them well before they get to minimum thickness and have had no problems. |
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Great starting point for track builds: http://www.japaneseclassicsllc.com/
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@rice_classic What's the budget for a reliable tow vehicle and trailer to get the racecar to the track?
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I spent a bit over 10k on my 10 year old Chevy Suburban, but it's a 3/4 ton with the 8.1 big block which has a larger rear end, axles and beefier transmission. Payload is a fair bit over 2,000lbs and tow rating is 12,000lbs. A diesel of similar vintage like the Ford PSD 7.3's in 250 or 350 trim (prefer 350 dually) are around the same cost, more with lower miles, etc but lacked the interior storage which I wanted (out of the weather, etc). On the smaller side, a Toyota 4Runner V8 from 05-09 will tow up to ~7,000lbs and do so very reliably. You can spent ~15k on a decent one with 100-150k and it'll last a good long time but I wouldn't try to pull an enclosed trailer with one. Shorter wheelbase so less stable towing also. For a bit more, a 5.7 Sequoia or whatever works as well. About the same capacity but a larger vehicle. Also 08+ so look at 20k or more probably. Some say VW Touareg.. but I don't trust VWs to be reliable long term. Easier to find than the Toyotas and cheaper with lower mileage.. so no one else does either ;) Supposedly the second gen is better but more expensive. Or you can spend 30-70k and buy a new tow vehicle :) I also know some people who have bought old F150s for 3-6k that will work, but I'd limit long distance towing. Most important thing to look at IMO is payload and tow rating. Don't look at just the tow rating. You may find that you have no capacity for more than 2 people and a few bags of clothes.... Oh yeah, if you don't mind creeper vans, those can tow very well also. You can even get PSD 7.3 E series Fords. |
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and the 240sx looks good thanks for the site i check all the miatas too |
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FX16 GTS? My friend's friend has one and it's one fun car! Lightweight too!
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But I used to tow on the super cheap with a 1996 E150 Conversion van.. Yes, with the folding bed and TV and all. I could only tow an open deck trailer but I saved money at the track because I would sleep in the van. But used V8 'Murican is your "tow-for-cheap" solution, just make sure whatever you choose has a tow-package such as better gearing, wired for trailer brakes and has engine/trans oil coolers. |
So after some research on the miata , i found that with 8k or less you can put a k motor on that miata and you retain you drive line and everything else, i must say for a weekend warrior and street car this is very interesting given the fact that the K motors from honda are really reliable and high revving what you guys think?
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After seeing project cars do unexpected things and owners scrambling for hours and missing runs and sessions, it's a labor of love with small reward. My money is on reliability, keep it simple stupid and maximize seat time, keep it stock. While a Civic Si or TSX motor would be awesome, (~200hp @ 7k rpm) and reliable, the potential issues won't be the block itself but rather all your wiring, sensors, everything mating up well mechanically (no rubs or unforeseen stresses), and ECM. Custom dashboard or a bunch of stick on gauges? Custom exhaust setup? This is not a summer project unless it's your full time job and you have access to a good shop, most people spend years on these kinds of setups before everything is dialed in. I'd spend the $8k on setting up the Miata real nice, good chassis to start spending up to $5k, nice set of revalved koni/bilsteins with quality springs from any of the half dozen companies that offer them off the shelf, go through all the bushings, roll bar, quality tires and brakes, full fluid flush. Assuming this is a casual track/autox car I'd say maintain DD-ability so you can drive it to the track without stressing yourself out and avoid the costs of a tow vehicle because you've gone full stipped and caged. For me the name of the game is seat time, you want zero excuses to not go out and flog the car. Quote:
Wiki is a fantastic resource for stuff like this, the K Series is primarily used for higher trim Integra/RSX/Civic, and Accord/TSX/ILX with a few larger cars/cuv using it as a base engine from the early 00's onwards. Good for 160-220 hp depending on what model which should be a solid upgrade for an NA/NB https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_K_engine |
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Or maybe we should be on the topic of swapping a flat 4 in a miata. Or maybe..... MAYBE. a F20C in a frs. :lol: |
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"get out of here! a Honda engine in the FRS???" @finch1750 |
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Cheapest F20C on ebay right now is $3k, $4k with tranny. I get it, Miata with F20C can save a good what 500-600 lbs over an S2k, certainly a potent combo if well setup, S2k killer for under $10k if performance is the only requirement and you start with a cheap chassis. Same deal with an 86, $4k on F20C+Tranny plus unknown labor, fab, wiring, troubleshooting, and for me emissions laws makes it unstreetable. Or $6k on a supercharger that puts ~240hp to the wheels instead of the crank that's emissions legal... |
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Ever seen the 2jz mustang? 2jz frs? 2jz s2k? 2jz r34 skyline? 2jz 240z? porsche powered bug? sti powered bug? v8 powered miata? People do crazy shit if they want. Why you always gota bring em down man? :bellyroll: And i do know you're just being realistic. |
AP1 and AP2 in Honda speak refers to the chassis. In the North American market, the AP2 chassis received the F22C engine, whereas the rest of the world continued to get the original F20C engine (Japan did start getting the F22 in 2006). If it were me, I wouldn't put forth the effort to drop a F20/22 into a Miata, I'd just buy a freakin' S2K! Just my humble opinion.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_S2000 |
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As it stands I'd rebuild it, upgrade the known weakpoints and run it again until it lets go because nothing else makes sense for this chassis to me. |
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[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohh2XYpKfVQ"]K24 Miata Mid Ohio testing - 217whp street car - YouTube[/ame]
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I Check yep the sell the wiring hardness conversions, it like a plug and play only you have to spliced for the length if I am correct from the description
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Toyota Ae86
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900AZ using Tapatalk |
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