Yeah, my personal opinion but seems to me there's a lot of 'sky is falling because you're running so much camber' going around. If you think about it, going from -1.5 to -2.5, it's one degree.

Uneven wear - I haven't seen any evidence of this yet. My tread is maybe not low enough yet to see any small differences, so maybe when I run out of tread I'll see it run out on the inside first, but overall no signs of uneven wear. No tram-lining issues, front end is super responsive, rear is nice and planted. I think getting the toe right is important.

Lots of other little factors too, like tire pressure, tire compound, sidewall stiffness, driving style. I'm running GY Asymmetric 2's and happen to be running very slightly stretched which stiffens the sidewalls (235's on 8.75 wide rims). Mostly back roads for me, not a ton of mileage on the interstante, but even when I'm on there doing 80+ it's a peach to drive.

I will try with -1.5 and -1 then see how i like.

It handles very well. The balance is neutral with a little bit of understeer, if I go into a corner too hot. I have 0 toe all around, so wear is even on the tires. I drive spiritually on a daily basis and I do not get any camber wear on the tires. I would recommend my alignment for the street.

do i need to wait few days to settle spring then get alignment?
my endlink came so gonna install tomorrow then get alignment on same day if possible.

im thinking about purchasing these very soon... is it worth it? and will i need to upgrade my lca and stuff? or can i just run it stock with just the coils.. thanks in advance

I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure you can!
If anyone can confirm this, that would be appreciated.

Depends on how low you go.

If you do a 1-1.5" drop you should be able to get away with stock and a little camber. I would however plan to get LCA's and Toe arms for the rear at somepoint.

Sure you can run just the coils with no camber adjustment. The lower you make your car, the more camber you'll have in the rear. Fronts suspension is not multilink so camber stays roughly the same, so you'll eventually have much more rear camber than front, which will make your car understeer too much. At the very least get some SPC camber bolts for the front and max them out, they're cheap. If you go really low then you'll probably want adjustable rear LCA's as well - ideally you want adjustability on front and rear as whomever aligns your car can set it up right.

Anything under 2 should be good without hindering drive ability, once you start going over that more so in the front the car will start to grip imperfections in the road more from my experience, which can suck on long road trips.

Hmm, I don't have this issue, thought I would, but I'm at -2.7 in the front, 0 toe, and it tracks fine down the road. I think there are other factors (i.e. tire compound/tread/sidewall stiffness, tire pressure, etc) that can help or hurt this. Making sure you have a good even alignment helps too. YMMV.

no. you dont lower much you dont need but i would get one.


to add, Flex Z has camber top at front so you dont need to get camber bolt unless you want super low

Hopefully you keep your eyes open, unlike this other spiritual driver:
http://www.nydailynews.com/news/nati...icle-1.2708311

:D

anybody has applied ani-sieze on collar? i didnt and forgot about it might get seizing up later...dont want them to seize

Sorry for my noob question, but if base drop is 1.2 inches and I only want my car lowered that much, I wouldn't need to make any adjustments right? Would I have to in the rear still as the rear is usually higher than the front? Or am I mistaken.

thank you everyone for your input and i will probably be dropping like an inch or maybe .8... lol im not tryna mess up my front bumper just yet lol... :burnrubber:

lol I meant "spiritedly." That was funny though haha :thumbup:

I'm not too knowledgeable on suspension parts, picked up the Flex Z because of the adjustable ride quality and it's nice. However I notice that when I'm going 35-40mph and drive over the railroad tracks, the front will make a loud clunk, like it bottomed out. I'm at the Tein recommended height and damper settings. Would there be a way to adjust the coilovers to avoid that clunking? I wouldn't say the railroad tracks are that bumpy either. No other issues driving otherwise.

make sure the top nut on the coilovers is tight, also check sway bar end links.

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Anyone?

You didn't specify what adjustments you were referring to.

Without adjustments made. For example, setting the pre-load to factory sets and not making height adjustments, would it lower just 1.2 all around as that's the stated base drop? If that's as much as I want to lower it, I wouldn't need to change anything right?

yes. make sure pre-load ring is snug not loose.
I slightly increased pre-load from default though.

between 2nd collar ring to bottom collar, it's 28mm on front and 35mm rear.
when i lowered mine, front gap seems little higher than rear. try 25mm or 26mm at front and should be looking similar to rear but i havent adjusted anything yet. lol

I have sti lips around and front lip still doesnt seem like very low enough to scrap anything but if i lower 0.5 inch more, i would scrap everything..haha

AHHH thanks for the info!

Even if you preset everything I still think you'd have to make minor ride height adjustments, as the car will sit with different weights on each corner, and the chassis itself isn't perfectly symmetrical, especially in the rear (which is why when lowering, you often get different camber from one side to the other which you fix with adjustable LCAs).

no problem. i am getting alignment next saturday so i will post some pics after. currently sitting front at 28mm and rear at 35mm as default setting from manual.

x 2

i just got alignment done


http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psu5kvpcyy.jpg

I notice that I got almost a degree of positive caster when I installed the Flex Z coilovers. Steering still felt light even with 245/40/17 tires. i decreased tire pressure to 31 PSI. Steering feels much better, but MPG is slightly suffering lol

Agree with OP and @CSG_Mike in regards to the 5 from full hard (all round). The install for mine (with EDFC) was finally completed today and I went for a decent drive to feel the difference. Up till this point I drove the car with completely stock suspension, wheels, tires and alignment for 2 years.

Sadly I had to switch the EDFC from auto to manual as, though it was working, it started at an initial 12 (from full hard) and then adjusted down from there depending on G's and road speed. Could not stand it as it made the car ride like a boat.

The flipside was I able to adjust front and rear dampening without ever leaving the car, while stopped (naturally), and it was really educational playing with say 8 front 9 rear and then trying the same setting like 7 all round.

In the end I arrived at 5 all round and then it clicked (for me) as being the sweet spot. The car felt more or less similar to stock only firmer and more planted. I only dropped the car 10mm and had the front camber adjusted to -1. Seeing as I'm still on stock rubber the workshop felt it was a safe setting.

The only negative so far is the steering feels a touch heavier than prior. I'll check tire pressure on the way to work on Monday and see if its still at the usual 35psi and (if so) perhaps try 36 and see if that helps, but I imagine its a side effect of the -1 camber in the front?

Going to take me a while to digest the EDFC manual and start experimenting with settings, which is going to be awesome fun, but I digress.

Speaking to the FlexZ's I think they are great for a daily driver, but the real revelation was coming to the realization that the stock suspension is actually ridiculously good. When my FlexZ's were set too soft I genuinely sat there and thought what a freaking waste of good money, but realized I just needed dial it in more to suit my tastes.

I'll need more seat time to truly appreciate the subtle benefits of the FlexZ's. One pleasant side effect is my stock tires feel like their grip has improved, which would likely be the new suspension doing its thing and keeping the tires in better contact with the road. I see my fuel economy worsening as the improved stability and grip makes me feel more inclined about increasing throttle just about everywhere Orz.

is this setup without rolled fenders? cause i just got my flex z and will install them this saturday :burnrubber:

https://s16.postimg.org/paxrepdud/image1.jpgscreen grab

cant wait to install these >.<

update pls once its installed. I'm still undecided which one to get bet tein flex z of bc br coil overs...

i shall i am going to get them installed today :party0030:

Yessir, nothing rolled.

hows the ride? bumpy/soft? how low did u go?


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Got mine installed 2 weeks ago and LOVE THEM!

what do you think about tein flex a with hydraulic bump stop?


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From what I understand, you'll only really need the HBS system if you live around really shitty roads and want the comfort.
However, the Z is a lot cheaper and so is rebuilding it. I figure be money saved can be used towards other parts. Maybe even to install and alignment haha.

thnx that really helps a lot... flex z it is...😊


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https://s13.postimg.org/pyoz1cp9z/image2.jpgupload a gif

https://s17.postimg.org/y3lxvzv7z/image1_1.jpgupload image

super comfortable ride... i was expecting a bumpy ride cause i rode in my friends frs with bc's and these werent the same as his, also didnt want to drop my car to the ground cause i didnt want to destroy my front bumper lol lemme know what you guys think. :popcorn:

cant really see the gap bet the tires and fenders... but hoping the ride is smoother than what i have right now. currently on trd springs.


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