I am totally photobombing your engine pics.

Motor ready to head to RS yet?

Crazy crazy
With the scoring, do these motors bore easily?
Whats the plan on that?

Unfortunately, I'm not 100% sure.

The scoring is minimal, really. I'm talking with a few shops / people who have built these up and then i'll decide what the plan is.

sub'd

Update -

I Decided that based on time requirements, and the fact that i have a few events coming up at the end of the month, that buying a used engine and swapping it in right now is the best option.

I picked up a engine out of a car that was rear ended and totalled with about 8,000 miles on it for $3300 shipped to my door.

I don't feel comfortable replacing pistons, rods, etc without doing a ton more research or talking to people who have, and I just don't want to miss events because of that. Plus, the most reputable machine shop in our area is backed up two solid weeks, so boring or honing my block would take forever.

So, i am going to tear down my engine completely, remove pistons and really inspect, and then build it back up over the summer / fall. Will go with the flex fuel kit until then so i can run e85 and avoid this damn detonation again.

i didn't have any codes with mine, just smoke .. happened on the delicious e85 ff tune. I've learned my lesson, its much better to have a local "good" tuner tune your car than etune. I ended up grabbing a used built motor.

Going back and thinking about your situation more - it's odd that oil got to your intake if you have catch cans.] Do you have them on BOTH crank and PCV?

the only other way would be if your Supercharger Leaked it's oil into the intake.

My leakdown shows that air makes it to the PCV and Crank, but the cans prevented any from getting into my intake, as both the intercooler and throttle body were clean.

the only code i ever had was misfire cyl 4. When the CEL flashed at me while going WOT, it just flashing intensely and then went away, leaving no codes.

And the weird thing is cyl 1 is the one that popped oil, not 4.

Odd..

the one for the pcv was overfull with oil.. so much that it went past and back into the intake pipe on the sprintex kit..

yes I had a dual catch can setup for both sides..

Was yours a 2013 FRS as well?

13brz

Why do 99% of these catastrophic engine failures come from 2013 twins? Is it because there are more higher mileage specimens or is it something else?

Was there any oil in the crankcase catch can as well?

My 13 only has 11k on it.

the one for the drivers side was none.

I had 24k miles

I wonder if it's related to the AVCS issues these cars had early on. The re-flash made the ECU less prone to throwing a code due to cam timing issues, but that's really just masking an underlying hardware issue. If you notice, there were some tuners who reported losing control over cam timing/AVCS intermittently on some cars.

Perhaps there was a quality control issue that got fixed on the assembly line (or on the supply-side) after 2013.

Yeah that's wht I've been seeing around the forum. The crankcase never catches anything. So does that mean it's safe not to add one?

That's exactly what I'm beginning to think...

Anecdotally, it seems like just about every blown motor I see is from a 2013...

Final update -

After tearing the engine down to the shortblock and removing the pistons - I found scoring on piston 1 in three areas plus a slightly bent rod. Cylinder has some what i realize is significant scoring, but everything else looks good.

Piston:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psiqufnu5j.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...ps2wjzq9rg.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psnsimtrmq.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psximvylzu.jpg

Some pics post tear down:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psuzf0lvtq.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psx0ncvd4a.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psdoidgk8l.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psyyzjq97q.jpg

AND the solution (for now) was to buy a motor with 8,000 miles on it. Just have to swap some parts and drop it in.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psg0cn0emf.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...psp8zokmfe.jpg

And of course the flywheel is all resurfaced and shiny for the new Exedy Stage 2, 3 puck clutch.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...pscaxbk8sl.jpg

so exactly how/why does scoring like that happen??

If I only knew 100%. Leading theory is detonation caused the rod to bend, tilting the piston and causing the scoring.

what did the used block run you?

I actually got an entire used engine minus the alternator and A/C Compressor (even came with clutch and flywheel lol) for $3300 shipped to my door from LKQ in Massachusetts.

http://www.lkqonline.com/

I called on one that was in Texas, and the guy there helped me search the system (for some reason their website says that they don't have any now) and found the one in MA.

Nice, what was the donor? accident?

Yea, hit in the rear i believe.

What tune are you going to run on the new engine? Do you think the new tune was the cause of the damage to the old engine?

Pat

These motors online, are they all plug in play? like they come with the harness and ecu?

What i'm going to do immediately is go back to my Perrin tune that came with the Voretch Kit. It's super rich, but safe. From there, I may e-tune with Visconti, Jeremy @ FT86speedfactory, or a local tune. I might go back to Full Blown as well.

After doing extensive research on detonation, I think there was some point in my tune that was leaned out (I don't think it was WOT) and i had some detonation because of that. Detonation has been known to break the spark plug electrodes (which is what happened to me) and from there it can be a snowball effect bending rods, over-expanding the piston causing it to scrape the cylinder walls, etc. What was not present is the typical erosion of the piston head that you see with continued detonation, or a ringland failure.

The detonation was also likely related, in part, to my fuel. I filled up just prior to the problems starting with 91 oct, which was the same brand, but a different location from where I tuned. So, if there wasn't enough protection in my tune at some given point, AND the octane wasn't up to the quality of the fuel I tuned on, that could have contributed as well.

What i've learned from all this is this:

When going boosted, and getting all the proper supporting mods, if you want to go aggressive tune-wise, get a flex fuel kit and injectors. The $600-$800 or so will be worth it to have the option to run E-85 for higher power, while still being able to run 91 on the street. So that's what i'm going to do.

Yes - most all of them. Mine came with both harness and ecu, but of course I swapped my ECU back on to this new block. The only thing that would be different is if you got one from an AT car and you have an MT.

It's really only about 10 connections or so to hook up the engine once it's back in the car -
Electrical + Multiple grounds
4 coolant hoses
3 fuel lines
AC Compressor lines (if you d/c'd it)
Alternator wires
PCV / Crank Case hoses
Intake
Supercharger and oil cooler bits.

Thank you for posting pictures and what you found with the engine. It really helps other owners knowing what can happen.

No problem. I just hope that they can find it if they need it. I struggled to find info on this topic when it first happened to me, and i know my title isn't super useful lol.