Thanks so much for the responses guys. It's really cool to see how many of you are into enjoying these cars like we do (including those who just want a better suspension for the street). A lot more suspension people than I thought!

- Andy

My FRS is my DD. I do have back up in case something happens. The trusty old 83 Toyota pick up. Anyways, initially I wanted to get rid of the horrible wheel gap. But I didn't want something slammed down. Since this is my DD, being too slammed (and stiff) would limit my access to certain areas. However, I'm also into the twisties so handling is something I care about as well. I won't say I made the smartest spring choice a few years back (Tein STech) but it did do wonders to the aesthetics of the car. At least for me. (Plus the purchase was a hurry up and wait and see game for the market at under $200). What I think was biggest improvement for handling were the tires. That was switching from stock to the ZII Star Spec. (And keeping stock size.)

Now that the market is more mature, I can make a wiser spring choice for something more neutral. So my next suspension upgrade will be a new spring set matched up with some B8s. More than likely the Swift springs. Though I haven't decided between the Sports or Spec-R. I'm also considering the Cusco shocks instead of the B8s since they are adjustable, but I also like the no nonsense of the B8. I would consider the Racecomp springs, but going back to aesthetics, the drop needs to be just a hair more.

Anyways, overall. I want something fun to drive like the Miata's I've had, yet more practical with trunk space. The FRS did it for me. Now I'm just guiding it into the looks and handling that I prefer.

Coming from a track-prepped Porsche 911, I only did 2 autocrosses before putting on KWV3s since I thought I knew what to expect. After a falling-out with my local SCCA chapter, I now rarely go to any events. So I'm stuck with a low, loud, uncomfortable car as an unjustifiable DD. Even worse is that my wider set of wheels won't clear the stock springs, so I would have to replace those too as I have trouble getting power down on stock width.

Oh well, I can save the comfortable cars for when I'm too old for sports cars haha

Andy, the support and inputs to the forum from yourselves and CSG have been invaluable in guiding many of us in our setups. Especially in Australia where we have a more limited selection, and the cost of acquisition (especially a bad choice) is quite high.


It's great that the advice is so freely given and so reputable.

This has come up with in the past. The result has always been that your KWV3's should be able to ride well with the right settings. Take a look around, you should be able to find some recommended settings.

About the ride height, can't those get to 15mm down from factory ride height? That wouldn't be too bad.

Calum is right...a little tuning and the KW V3s will ride and handle really well.

Raise the car a little bit and use these settings:

"FRONT REBOUND: 12

FRONT COMPRESSION 13

REAR REBOUND : 14

REAR COMPRESSION : 9

*** ALL OF THESE SETTINGS ARE FROM FULL STIFF ******

So adjust the adjusters to FULL STIFF( CLOCKWISE ) then back it off these numbers of clicks.

Myles"

We developed these settings a few years ago and they work really well.

- Andy

This is really all anyone needs to know, right? RIGHT? Guys...?

Same settings for the RCE Tarmac II or only the KW V3?

No the T2's use different settings. They are on our FB page buried in the pictures from early 2013.

Mw

Do you still own the 911?

We're in Baltimore/ DC area. You're not too too far. If you want come down and I can setup your 911 KW v3's. I have a lot of experience with those cars.

Myles

My car is my DD and only practical car (GF has the other car which is an MR2 spyder, lol). I autox only and would run full seasons if budget allowed. Honestly i like getting parts and am looking forward to "finishing" my first car. I go to a handful of events per year and spend a bunch of time in the mountains. This forum has helped me develop a higher standard for suspension with the topics covered that go above my head most of the time.

I am currently on RCE yellows with bridgestone S-04s with around -2 camber all around and zero toe. I also have the whiteline rear subframe bushings and rear uca bushings (PITA, but soooo worth it). I plan to install Konis and maybe sways eventually. I'll add sticky tires and wide wheels last or close to last so I can learn more on semi-sticky tires. By the time my skill gets to a level needing them I should have saved enough to make a big jump like Tarmac IIs or similar when I jump to chasing trophies and the track.

My main focus has been suspension with only a catback and intake added for power and I don't regret it a bit.

I use stock everything for my car because I live by the frugal philosophy that, "if it isn't broken, no need to replace it." Perhaps in a couple years when something goes wrong, then I'll invest into some quality replacements--till then, I'll just try my best to do my part in maintaining the car as it was from the factory. On a side note, I will have to admit that I have replaced my header to the Tomei UEL Header as well as tuning the car for reliability with the Open Flast Tablet.

That...is exactly what I like to see!

- Andy

Primarily a track car with some auto-x that I drive to the track.

I just installed Ohlins R&T. On deck are bushings (all Whiteline) to be installed. After that I will schedule a corner balance and alignment. Hopefully all will be completed before the season starts up here in the Great White North.

The car is lowered to the Ohlins recommended 20mm drop so no need for roll centre/bump steer correction kit. I will dial in as much camber in the front as the camber plates will allow, so somewhere around -3 deg. For the rear I am thinking of getting Racer X LCA's for adjustability. For now I'm on stock LCA's and the approx. -2 deg. camber from the 20mm drop will have to do for now.

Bushings to be installed are:
1- Lower Inner Front Bushing and Lower Inner Rear Bushing (anti-dive kit)
2- Rear Crossmember Mount Insert Bushing
3- Rear Diff Mount Cradle & Support Outrigger Insert Bushing
4- Front Gearbox Positive Shift Kit Bushing

Pierre, I've got the positive shift kit and rear diff inserts already installed. Forgot to mention that before.

I'll say it again for the people online, your car rides fantastic. It's as smooth, or smoother, than mine with significantly higher spring rates.

I've been toying with the idea of making my own toe links, I think I can make them for about half what the good ones cost, but still using very high quality heim joints.

Keep doing this and we just might change that. Thanks to the interwebs and the growing popularity of track days HPDEs may of the strictly "hellaslammed" show car crowd are beginning to cross over the suspension, corner under/2 clicks/castor side of things.

Check rockauto.com for moog's adjustable toe links. Life time warranties are awesome. :thumbsup:

IIRC there's also a listing for adjustable camber rear control arms from Moog.

$80 each is still higher than what it should cost to make them, but definitely better than $300 for a pair!