I do not like halfassed. I like a full ass.
Mattles-San...we must meet. How about Cars and Coffee at the Penske Auto Museum June 16th...0800 til 1000. Coffee's free, food trucks are there for fee and all sorts of other cars from around the valley. I will be there from Litchfield Park with my friend and his '06 911. Unfortunately we have have the same exact car...but, great minds think alike.

There is a Cars and Coffee in AZ? Daaaamn thats early though. Oh hey its right by the Mini dealership, I know where that is, Ive got a customer over there. If I can figure out how to get my ass up that early on a non-weekday then I shall see you there.

bobstheoilguy.com


Your engine is designed to run the oil at a specific temperature (usually 212F) all the way from Alaska to Florida. This maximizes efficiency, reduces emissions and maximizes lubrication protection. Running a 40 weight or higher in the Summer isn't necessary for a street driven vehicle but if you're going to be running it at the track, which will raise your oil temperature above 240F, then you can step up your viscosity to a 30 or a 40 weight.

Knowing what viscosity oil to put in the car depends on 2 things, temperature and pressure. You want to run the thinnest oil your engine is designed to run to maintain the cSt (centistoke) at a given temperature and proper pressure at a given RPM.

Example:
1: If my street car says 5w-30, that means it's designed to run on a 30 weight oil at 212F (a 30 oil at 212 is 10cSt). So if I'm raising the temperature of my oil to 260F then the 30 weight oil is now at 5-6 cSt (too low for design of the engine and could also lower pressure) and thus I need to consider running a heavier oil like a 40 weight.
2: If my oil pressure is below the 10/1000 rule (10 psi for every 1000 rpms) then I need to consider a thicker oil for track-day purposes to increase pressure at racing temperatures.

I personally will not be running a thicker oil than the 0w-20 unless I start playing with this at the track, which I may not do as I already have a race car for that. I will just plan on buying a very high quality 0w-20 like Amsoil European formula or Joe Gibbs street oils.

(Daddy likes his Zinc content).

I'm up at 0530 everyday of the week...well 0430 on weekdays, 530 on weekend. I sleep in. They have a cars and coffee in Chandler as well. I will be at the Scottsdale one in June I am sure. Shouldn't be hard to spot each other.

Any thoughts about Redline Synthetic oil? Saw it has ester in it which I read is good? Plan on sticking to Subaru's 0W-20 rec although I'm in south Texas.

Just ordered me a case of Amsoil OE 0w-20.

I'm probably gonna run T6...I just came from a Mazdaspeed3 and many of those guys ran oil analysis on what they were running. Turns out the T6 was by far the best since it was designed for turbo diesel trucks. I ran Mobil 1 forever and according to those guys it was horrible for those cars...and every time I changed my oil at 3k miles it was burnt and black as night. So, I switched and noticed a marked improvement. Anyway, that's what I'm most likely gonna run. Only comes in 5w40 as far as I know, but since I live in Louisiana and our summers run into the 100's and the winters barely get below 50, I think I'll be okay.

running motul 8100 for the track and life since im in texas and it gets heat soaked fast. Just changed the stock oil at 1060 miles and it was coffee brown. Prob in the winter will try some motul eco 0w20... Let the endless debate of oil performance beginnnnn :)

Motul 8100 is terrific oil

On a side note...my dealer told me that the fr-s was only allowed 2 free oil changes. I brought it to his attention that in the brochure it said 2 years and 25000 miles. He said it was like that on every other scion but not the fr-s...

Anybody else have that told to them?

Ask him to show you some Scion literature that says that...:thumbsup:

For real...I was showing him literature that said I get my 2/25000.

I hate dealers...they know nothing!

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-0W...l-5qt/17034374

this be any good? only 0w-20 i can find in my area

You get Scion's Service Boost.... you get free oil changes. If they won't concede find yourself another dealer and maybe call Scion directly to let them know.

I will get my first oil change here at around 2000 km, at my toyota dealer, since they said my first service is free. Then i will probably do my next oil change at 8000k. I have been using Mobil 1 for a few years in my vehicles (2005 silverado and a 2011 wrangler) impressive results, however I think I want to step it up a notch with my FRS and put Redline synthetic in, the frs has a really high rev limit compared to my silverado and wrangler (5800 rpm) And I think Redline is probably the way to go.

No. Doubt it will like that M1. And youre in Plano, forget 0w20.

What should I look for then? We have very hot summers and very cold winters and a lot of inbetweens lol. Welcome to texas.

I ran Rotella T6 5w-40 in my WRX; good oil, the high HTHS from the turbo-diesel origin of the oil was great for that engine. Summers in MD get to over 100 while winters dip into the teens, I never found the oil too thick for winter. I do wonder what will become the popular oil for these cars once people start doing analyses. Personally, I'll probably just use 0W-20 until my warranty's up.

0w20 is just fine in Plano TX.

Motul's 8100 series of oils (yes there are many types) are not for the track. If you want an oil that you can use for both the track and street, use Motul 300V. Pricey, but it is one of the few oils that's actually 100% synthetic (PAO & Ester). You can even smell the Esters in this oil; smells like bananas.

Always thought running racing oil on the street was a no-no. Though I suppose since there is a 0w-20 300V formulation it doesn't matter, unless the zinc wrecks the cats?

Royal Purple

Maybe if you ran Mobil 1 racing oil it would be bad. That stuff is absolutely insane. The worst that can happen with 300v is it will shorten the life of your cats. This stuff could very easily qualify as a GF5 oil if they lowered the anti-wear additives and the HTHS viscosity.

http://www.motul.com/system/product_...pdf?1302115228

At that cost I'd probably run something else. I just don't think street wear is good enough to justify oil like this; I won't be seeing the track. Unless the oil change interval is ridiculous or something I'm not going to get returns on my money over Motul 8100 or any other full syn.

I'll be running what the engineers who designed the car spec'd for it; Full Synthetic SAE 0W-20 ILSAC Multigrade engine oil for everyday use, Full Synthetic SAE 0W-30 ILSAC Multigrade engine oil for track days.

So, for my last (first) oil change I was looking for 0W-20 and could only find it in Mobil1 and Castrol Edge Titanium. Mobil1 and Subaru engines have had a rocky history so I won't us it. I've used Castrol Edge in the past, but apparently this new "Titanium" formulation is not as good as the old version. Castrol won't release HTHS numbers for their US products. So that's off my list now too.

What I ended up going with was Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20. The BobIsTheOilGuy.com forums really like Pennzoil products, and short of expensive high-end oil (Redline, Amsoil, Motul, etc) they have some of the best product. Now, we're seeing really high temps this summer, so the higher start weight doesn't concern me. But I would like a recommended 0w-20 for the winter. Pennzoil makes a Platinum 0w-20 (but not Ultra) however I only found one nearby source for it.

Wal-Mart. :mad0259: I dislike giving them my business, but I may not have an option once the temperature begins to drop.

now alot of us have different preferences.. its good to know what is everybody think of all these varieties in oil selection..

i have been using TORCO USA OIL for my ae86 and never had any problem.. from engine, trans to differential..

are there any special oil that is highly recommended for our frs/brz cars to be used? such as maybe a TOYOTA Trans Fluid only or what not...


im planing on using Torco TBO Premium Break-in Oil once i hit 500 miles.. this product though is High in Zinc content, do i have to worry about my catalytic or any parts breaking?


then after start using TORCO SR-5 0W-20 Synthetic Oil once i hit 1500k on my frs.. any thoughts?

I had trouble finding 0w-20 locally and bought Mobil1. I then learned that Mobil1 may be a bad idea in this engine so I'm going to return it to Autozone today and pick up some Castrol at Advance before actually doing the oil change.

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I'm in the same boat. Advance has Mobil and castrol while autozone only has Mobil. I didn't think of checking Walmart.


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Just filled 'er up with 5.8 quarts of Redline 0W-20. Thankfully there is a racing-oriented parts shop just down the road where I can pickup the good stuff.

If you can't find the good oil you want (which isn't at Walmart, Orielly's etc) you can always go on Amazon.com. I for one am not a fan Syntec or Mobile 1 (road car oil) in anything I really care about or anything I race, but that's just me.

I am lucky, the owner of the NAPA by my house is an Amsoil distributor so I will be using the Amsoil 0w-20. I'm a big fan of Amsoil qualiy and happily pay for it.

A lot of people think about running "racing oil" or whatever in their street car but I wouldn't recommend that as racing oils typically don't have the detergents and inhibitors in them and higher levels of Zinc/Phosphorous (good for racing protection but too much can harm catalytic converters).

Redline, Joe Gibbs, Motul, Amsoil all make a "street car" acceptable oil that is robust enough for racing type conditions.

Even torco sr1 no good?

Redline goes into the STI. But because the BRZ is a daily, I don't want to use the expensive stuff. I'll be replacing the oil every 4000miles rather than the recommended 7500. So PP will be fine for my application.

I'm not familiar with it. It seems like it would be a good oil based on what little I've read at BITOG.

I think Torco SR1 would be a great oil. However, it's only like 20 bucks or so a year to get Amsoil at their preferred customer pricing. I wish Torco had a similar program as i would definitely use SR1 if it were better priced. Consequently I'll probably just use Amsoil Signature Series.

rpmparts has great price for torco sr1's $9.75 a quart/bottle

Walmart also can ship the oil you want to the store for free or to your house for $1. Thats how I get my Pennzoil Ultra for my Si. This oil is otherwise impossible to find.

Also, why is Mobil 1 bad for the FRS/BRZ engine? I know a lot of racing teams use Mobil 1 Extended Performance in their expensive engines. And yes, it's the same stuff you can buy at the store.

I've had German Castrol (0W30) in my engine for just under a thousand miles so far and despite any initial worries I had with this thick oil, the engine seems to be responding to it very well. And a bonus; no drop in fuel economy either :)

It might be fine in the new FA20. The problem with Mobil1 is that in EJ engines it gets consumed much more quickly then other oils. Many people with Subarus have seen high oil consumption with Mobil1 that went away immediately upon switching to another brand of oil.

I'm not sure what particular aspect of Mobil1 causes this, but considering how often this has happened, I'm just not going to use Mobil1. There are tons of other oil brands out there that are as good or better, so there's no need to even bother with Mobil1.

For those that have bought 0w-30 Amsoil, where did you purchase it?

I have only found a couple dealers online and they have it priced at ~$10-12 a quart.

I have a hard time giving any of my $$ to Wal-mart but not everyone views the world as I.

Mobile 1 isn't "bad". Just because some people (Me included but only in a racing application) don't choose to use it, doesn't mean it's "bad". What's ironic about your friends using the Extended Performance oil on a racing engine is that it has one of the lowest PPM of phosphorous and zinc of other Mobile 1 options.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

I've put all types of different oil in my race engine: straight 30, VR1 Dino and Syn, Syntec, Mobile 1, redline, Amsoil etc etc etc. At the end of the day I did my data research and run what makes me happy. My daily driver (200k prelude) really likes the Mobile 1 High Mileage stuff, strangely enough as it quiets down a "ticking" at low rpm.