I have an FR-S and I'm building it to run CS for the rest of this year and will see if I want to stay in Stock or move to another class next year. I checked with the Scion dealer and they don't have a part number for a "Crash/Camber bolt" and when I checked with the Subi dealer they said the top bolt is a camber adjusting bolt from the factory and don't list a part number for the camber bolt; would you happen to have the part number for the camber bolt? I'll be installing the Koni sport shocks this weekend so I'll be able to see it the top bolt is infact an adjustable bolt.

Also, do you feel the car needs the bigger front sway bar? I have the 22 mm Stano bar on order but don't want to put it on if it is not necessary. The bar is on backorder until the beginning of July and we have a race Fathers Day weekend so I'll get a good feel for the car with the stock bar then.

Jim
'88 Celica GT -> '88 Celica GTS -> '88 Celica w/ 3.0 V6 swap -> '92 MR2 -> '11 Scion tC -> '13 Scion FR-S
Our local autocross track : http://www.ssccmedford.org/track.html

Not surprised about the Purple Crack-Hoosiers. Most competitors have 'over-tired' their cars with A6's as the cantilever effect (slant in) of the uber-stiff sidewall against the tread carcass creates grip on an otherwise too-wide tire. Again Newton has failed us, the world is flat. At least that's what the conventional wisdom is about the Hoosiers when bench racing, aka working the autocross course.

Eric G

Toyota Part # - SU003-02818

And yes on the bar. The BRZ was way too tail happy stock and the FR-S has more oversteer-prone springs than my BRZ. You're going to quickly find yourself chasing the rear... a lot.

What tires are you running?

I will be running the ADVAN AD08 because I have 2 friends with BRZ's that run in STX and there is only one other car that runs in CS, at our local track. I think with a "Stock" setup I can at least keep up both my friends cars. Next year if I stay in Stock I'll run the R comp tires.

I've read that the BRZ has "slightly" stiffer springs and softer shocks than the FR-S. Is that the case? That might explain the tail happiness of the BRZ. I'm trying to determine if I need a front bar. I suppose I could try the stock, then the Strano bar and see which reacts the best.

The spring rates on the FR-S are much more rear biased (153/195 on the BRZ vs 131/211 on the FR-S). I don't think there has been anything conclusive but it looks like the struts are valved to match.

Are you saying the spring rate in the rear of the cars are "stiffer" than the front? I'm going with the Koni sport shocks so the valving of the stock strut won't matter much.

I've had both struts on a shock dyno, they have the same exact valving. Only the springs are different (have had them on a spring dyno as well).

Yes the cars have stiffer springs in the rear.

Just remember before getting started on R Comps next year that 2014 is the last year for R Comps in stock (will be called SR class and will be supplemental for the new Street class).

Also, AD08s are legal to run RTR, just incase you have other RTR cars locally to run against.

And as pointed out, the shocks are the same on the two cars, just different spring rates between them (I do prefer the BRZs rates for stock/RTR).

you can dial out the oversteer with the Koni shocks but you end up with a fair
amount of low speed understeer. go ahead and order the front bar.

the FR-S has stiffer rear springs than the BRZ but you will not notice it on the street.
you may be able to tell the difference on the track but it will be slight.

I definitely did notice on the street when driving about 4/10ths. It wanted to slide much easier anytime you added throttle. Haven't tracked an FR-S though.

I wonder what the combination of BRZ front and FRS rear springs would be like? Not legal for Stock but could be used in STX if the combo was good.

The car definitely needs more front spring so doing that isn't worth the labor IMO. For a cheap STX setup, do RCE Springs then add Koni shocks as budget allows.

Am I the only one that can't keep traction durin Auto x to get a decent time I mean I have a great time but just drifting everywhere if I try and power through anything but I've only went once and car is still on stock wheels going to all of them from now on though :)

The stock tires are pretty terrible for autocross and putting power down.

Also if you haven't had an alignment done I would start there, it can also drastically change how the car behaves if it's off.

That, combined with the rear swaybar disconnected is my winter setup. It gives a nice balance in the snow, but it's not something I'd consider a "hot ticket" setup for STX, even on the cheap.

This past weekend I the smaller camber bolt on the top of the steering knuckle to strut mount and my stock street tires are very close to the struct tube; how does a 245 tire on a stock dimension rim fit with the camber bolt?

I'll find out later this week or next. I don't anticipate any problems and I'm sure others are doing it..?

I've read that others have done it, I think even in this thread. I ordered a set of 245 tires to mount on my stock rims to race the remainder of this season and happened to to check the distance between the tire and strut body and there is no way they will fit. I don't want to give up the camber so I might have to order a set of 215 tires to race with.

Good chance they're not using stock wheels I guess.. I have a set of spacers laying around I may need to use. Remember that a 245 pinched on a 7" wheel isn't going to be as wide as if it were on a more "appropriate" wheel.

Most of us using 245s are using +42 offset rims. With a 5mm spacer they would probably fit. I have 225 BFG Rivals mounted on the stock rims and they just barely fit with the camber bolts, there is no way a 245 would fit.

you will need a 1/4" spacer (5mm will do) on the front wheels if you put 245 tires on the OEM wheels.
but you will only get 3-4 turns of thread engagement with the lug nuts. i live with
this for autocrossing but it is not safe for driving on the street.

You are not allowed to modify anything like taking out the rear seat to reduce vehicle weight.

Right. Specifically, there's no rule that allows it.

I found they aren't AS terrible as I had expected, but not good. Most of my issues have been holding traction under braking... it's really a crap shoot whether they grip, slide, or lock up the wheels and kick on the ABS. I've found they do not hold traction well during steady state cornering and the rebound damping in the rear is what lets the car down when it comes to fast transitions in slaloms. I think the tires have more to give in this regard. The turn in is better than expected but I'm trending to the conservative side of entry speed to prevent mid-corner washout. Putting power down really hasn't been much of an issue, and the lot we use is quite gravely.

Through 2 events this season in my completely showroom car I was back 2.8 (~54 second course) and 1.35 (~49 second course) seconds respectively of last year's detroit region PAX and Pro class champion. He is in a RTR FR-S with a FSB, exhaust, and BFG Rivals. He was 1st on PAX at the opener and 2nd by thousandths on PAX for the second event.

We have not tried swapping cars to really try to figure out the gap between prep and non-prep.

My suggestion for C-Stock depending on your budget is stickier tires- Nitto NT-01, Hankook ventus Rs3, Nitto Nt-05 etc etc, better brake pads, shocks, solid front sway bar, light weight exhaust or you can just take off your exhaust at the event and drop in air filter.

So far I am placed 1st in C-stock with the FR-S and my 3rd event is this June 23rd.

Here was my last event in SOLO: [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbgVYUIC2z4"]SCCA SOLO EVENT 2 2013 FR-S - YouTube[/ame]

Looks like you used YouTube's stabilization thing too..?

yeah, my camera mount is crap.. that's what I get for paying $5 on ebay lol. Going to get a better one before the next event.

My video looks the same, with a GoPro handlebar mount on the tow hook.

I still need a better mount, the shit shakes hard! I have to use tape to add more stabilization to prevent your eyes from rolling in the back of your head lol.

Ran my second event today. Had some more embarrassing DNFs but finished a little less than a second off the guy they tell me is the best driver in the region in a CS Miata. I definitely want to go with the C71 compound Hankooks next time and they are still screaming for front camber.

One section of the course ended up dropping me under 4k in 2nd gear. I never did try downshifting. Does anyone use first gear? It was a pretty short section and I can't imagine I could have saved any time but I'd like to see when people DO downshift.

Link to more from the event, videos uploading now:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=10

I'm not sure about the twins, yet, I've tried it in my Impreza wagon. It wasn't worth it. It was better to leave it in 2nd, even with the lower rpms.

I could never get my WRX in 1st gear while it was moving anyway. In the BRZ I can but like I said, I doubt it would be worth it at the speed I shift. There was a guy in Alabama region in an old Integra that was in 1st gear several times per course and he was faster than I'll ever be, though.

I guess it depends on if the time it takes to get it into 1st and how long you'd actually stay in that gear is worth it or not.

Here's a video, between 12-24 seconds in to the video is what I was thinking about today. I don't thinK I could have stayed in 1st the whole time which really ruled it out.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxE5shBBEd4"]Great River Region SCCA Autox - June 16 - Run 6 - YouTube[/ame]

It was probably better to stay in 2nd.

We have had a couple courses here where I have dropped as low as like 3000 RPM in some tight 180 type turns. One of them had a wider spaced slalom afterwards where I likely could have made up some time by putting it in 1st, but I didn't bother at a local event. I know some of the S2000 guys were downshifting back into 1st there and it definitely helped.

This car is much easier to downshift into 1st than the WRX/STi gearboxes.

Also, since this is the CS thread, the July Fastrack has a proposal to move the BRZ/FR-S to ES with the NB Miata.

It makes sense that the S2000 guys are downshifting.

That would be interesting if the move to ES is approved. I somewhat don't see that happening, but I could be wrong.

Looks like we'll be moving to ES next year

https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...-july-solo.pdf

Looks like we'll be moving to ES next year

https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...-july-solo.pdf

It is just a proposal and there is a decent amount of opposition to moving them to ES. I don't think we are done with class shuffling just yet.