Depends on wheels. I highly recommend doing it right and just replacing the stock studs with lingers ones. With hub centric spacers they just against the hub and wheel once torqued down to spec. If your after market wheels have pockets next to the lug holes then you can buy spacers that have built un lugs into them

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

I see alot of questions and I have run spacers on a lot of cars so here's stuff I learned
1. front hub you would do best with a air gun doing it with a torque wrench wont really cut it unless you have a friend with their foot on the brake.
2. If you run multi pattern wheels the stock lug may protrude from the spacer if its a press in. you have to run 25mm for no protrousion but stock rims this isnt a problem for.
3. Use some anti sieze on the sock and spacer lugs.
4. I would likely run open ended or extended lugs with spacers if the spacer lugs are extended.
5. Dont over torque the lugs- 90lbs should be the most.


Hope this helps

@jflogerzi @executivekoala

Does that mean no shorting/cutting need to be done to the original studs with H&R DRM series (20mm/30mm) spacer, on stock 17" rims ?



H&R DRM Series

DRM Series spacers bolt to the hub with existing wheel studs and special nuts (included). Wheel is bolted to new DRM wheel studs
TRAK+ wheel spacers are made from a proprietary aluminum/magnesium alloy which is not only incredibly strong, but also very light weight (up to 70% lighter than a comparable steel product). TRAK+ wheel spacers are then hard anodized to ensure a tough, durable finish that is resistant to chipping, scratching and oxidation. Hub centric for the highest level of accuracy.

wow wow wow! I lovvvvvvveeeee this!

does anyone know if 25mm in the front will rub or not?

You'll need just a tad of negative camber, about 1" of drop and not too wide of a tire and it will tuck and be flush

Thanks! I have a 1.4 drop and stock rims and tires you think I'll be okay?

Yep, it'll look great. Make sure you have a way of adding some negative camber in the front. Camber bolts ($20-$30ish) or camber plates ($250-$400) will do. In the back you should already have about -1.5 natural camber so you'll be good to go there.

This thread helped me a lot, so I figured I would post my sizes and results. Lowered 1" 5mm front / 15mm rear.

http://i.imgur.com/jAkYKXX.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2jujcwty4b...42220.jpg?dl=0

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm totally new to this spacer thing. Does running spacers have any effect (positive or negative) on the handling? I would love my rims to be flush for esthetics, but don't want to change performance. Thanks!

Important to think on this
 

IMHO, I have 30mm spacers in the rear and the front is stock for now (just ordered 20mm's for the front) and because of this, the slightest turn on the steering wheel and my car moves left or right.
With the 20mm's I ordered, I should be able to balance/manage the over-steering (prefer over-steer than under for those emergency situations and/or quick turns)
Until now.. I loved the setup (30mm rear / stock in front) but lately I've been feeling like my turning ability has decreased when merging onto a highway ramp/bend due to my current setup. Mind you, Ive been driving like this since mid January 2018 and it is mid September 2018 now... so I can tell you.. all that oversteer eventually gets annoying especially when you want to multi task while driving (baby wants attention, etc..) and you look away for a sec and you start to drift left or right.
Having purchased the 20mm spacers for the front it should significantly reduce my oversteer and make my daily drives much more smooth and relaxing.
Hope this helps.

Just got 25mm in the back and 20mm in the front today. It's much better fitment and I'm digging the flush look.

I’d check your alignment. Spacers aren’t going to cause your car to wonder. Your use of the terms “drift” and “oversteer” are also miss leading as what you are describing is neither.