They should mention it for each header, but they don't. It is pretty well documented and known that you should add stiffer motor mounts for their headers.


What is funny is they sell motor mounts, and quoted in the motor mount section.

Hardrace 7440 motor mounts are recommended for anyone using the Type A or Type B 250 or 350 on their FRS/BRZ/GT86

i wonder why some people have issues with subframe rubbing, and most people like myself have zero issues with subframe rubbing on both stock engine mounts and then later sti mounts. is it the 4-2 header or 2-1 overpipe causing the rubbing?

just realized you are in Greece, are you guys RHD or LFD? if you are RHD then it is known and state that the 350 has fitment issues. "GT86/FRS/BRZ 4-2-1 MERGE HEADER, 350 COLLECTOR, LHD" I hope the RHD people aren't the ones buying the 350 and complaining about fitment.

LHD in Greece as you, in my case the overpipe rubs against the subframe when I start from a stop, on hard acceleration and left corners.
As handmade product every header is different as every BRZ/FRS is different, I think the rest of the exhaust plays a role and adds to the rubbing issue, although the only exhaust part I added is a Berk frontpipe.

forgot they are all handmade but i have type B so slightly less "handmade"

I have read some people having issues with certain frontpipes if they are either heavier, angled lower then stock, or installed lower, causing the overpipe to "droop" lower and hit. possibly something to look into. or see if you can reinstall frontpipe and bolt it to FP mount to have it higher and pushing overpipe up more. maybe pull catback in closer to "wedge" the FP up more.

It's made in Taiwan, I don't expect so much quality...

They are quality products regarding welding and material but they have to adjust better distances and curves of each header to minimize rubbing issues and use better bolts/nuts, Tomei/Gruppe-s headers are made in Taiwan also and they are perfect quality imho!

The header is $1700 without shipping or tax. Motor mounts are like $250-300. And you really need a ceramic coating, too. It is easily over $2000 to get this header properly installed on your car.

Meh, just my two cents, during years I saw many different brands of exhausts, many of them of reputable brands, but when I saw Supersprint I was amused. But they are absurdly priced, and not so good for our cars...

Free shipping, no tax, I don’t have a ceramic coating and over 2 years in PNW still looks brand new, zero heating issues. And myself and many others had zero issues with stock mounts. Also consider this includes over pipe thats at least another 250$ value over other options.

It also used to be stocked by more vendors (now looks like only ace and csg) when other vendors had it they all have 10%+ off sales several times a year. If i waited 3 months i could have gotten mine to my door for 1215$. But I didn’t want to wait.

But to be fair if the 1700$ ace was all that was available i would have got a EL JDL

LOL. That was pretty ignorant. Quality has little to do with where it is made and more to do with accepted tolerances from whomever is commissioning the work.

A header is a pretty complex part to build. Something as simple as removing it from it's fixture before it has cooled enough can distort it.

I figure the welding fixture and jigs must've been moved around a bit and warped during production. Even on the stock motor mounts, the header was hitting the underbody panel, coming too close to the passenger side sway bar bushing(melted it several times) and the bolt holes at the engine don't line up properly. I always end up having to push apart the header flanges to get it over the head studs. Luckily it hasn't ruined the head stud threads.

Quick question, how much of noise difference an OEM frontpipe has with and without/gutted frontpipe?
I want to gut the OEM frontpipe but due to ACE headers I believe it will be quite noisy although I have OEM catback, I like it close to factory noise levels!

Sorry, I don't agree... We're not talking of a CNC made product, these can be made everywhere with extreme quality. We're talking of manifacture...
I'm used to italian manifacture, sorry.

Your experience must not have much to do with welded product.

With the Nameless header on my car I have issues. Flanges are "sprung" and won't slide onto the studs without being persuaded. Also an expensive header, and US made.

Are these kind of fitment issues typical with hand made headers? I assume the ACE and Nameless are hand welded?

I wonder if the JDL 4-2-1 has similar fitment issues.

:iono:

It depends on so many factors. I'd say most of the common headers out there are going to be pretty dialed. The more complex, the more chance for distortion.

My turbo manifold also had issues but it was a handmade 1 of 6 so the jig could have been off. I really don't hear of too many complaints across the board on any header but I am sure there are more out there then get posted.

Some of you may think this is ghetto, but I had it done and it works perfectly to resolve interference with the subframe.

Cut a slot in a large washer, and slip it between engine mount and frame. This raises whole engine a few millimeters, creating clearance for the overpipe.

Takes 10 minutes and any muffler shop can do it.

Make sure the rest of your exhaust system is not introducing a stress onto your ace header, causing it to be torqued.

Safety wire can prevent backing out. Alternatively, you can just use a long bolt rather than the stud + nut.

Every header will touch the underbody on every car; the underbody panel must be hammered flat in a few places for clearance. This is by design to get the proper runner lengths and keep the bend radii as large as possible.

I think the overpipe contacting the subframe is the biggest issue. It clears by about 3-4mm, but makes contact on hard left turns when exiting with throttle.

Washer trick under engine mount solves this issue by raising the overpipe another few mms.


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So im in the middle of changing out my FLywheel, CLutch ect and have my head up behind the engine. Noticed the exhaust manifold stud is touching overpipe. Anyone else notice this? could be another source of rattle

https://i.imgur.com/16MEjkc.jpg

great sharehttps://babang.xyz/assets/7/o.png

You can put a shim on the motor mount or maybe its just old and saggy, like my neighbors ahem*. Probably easier just to cut a little nub off that stud.

I just pulled my engine, my A350 isn't anywhere near that close

Well at least they are consistent then /s

You missed the post above I have Perrin mounts. Yeah will just cut off that knub when I swap to stock headers for upcoming inspection. Just something for others to check since you cant really see it from looking from the front of the motor.

Same here. I have ~10mm space between the header stud and the overpipe.

I dont know how many things can cause the cylinder head to shift relative to your overpipe/frontpipe junction. Was it always like this? I cannot imagine the perrins being different dimensions as stock, shorter?

The perrins should be the same. PLus the cylinder to header to overpipe should remain constant even if the height was slightly different. Front pipe was unattached as well. I really don't have any rattle its just something I noticed with the Tranny out of the way I was able to stick my head up behind the engine.

cusco motor mounts with a-350 here.
no rubbies
i would recommend hard ass motor mounts anyways because it helped me with the vague clutch feel, even with the clutch spring mod. the difference was amazing. the stock motor mounts made me feel like i forgot how to drive stick, even when i had thousands of miles on the car.

This is a year later, but I’ll throw in my experience.

I bought the A350 used (was on a track car beforehand), with all of the used gaskets, and other hardware. Gaskets are almost shot, but still have worked (I should have gotten new ones though for peace of mind). Hardware looked like it was in decent shape. After getting the stock exhaust manifold off, the install was straight forward. I have had 0 rubbing anywhere and only have positive experience from the header. I am also on TRD mounts (STI is the same).